Tire rubbing, whats your opinion. (1 Viewer)

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  • Remove Spacers

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Joined
Nov 6, 2014
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2
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14
Rubbing bad in the rear after going to 35's. Its only on the rear flare toward the front.
So i have two options. Im running 1.25 Spidrtrax spacers. I can remove them from the rear or remove the flares all together.
I'm leaning toward removing the flares but worried about body damage from slung rocks.


fjf35_zps1278c0f2.jpg~original
 
Are you rubbing just driving or are you rubbing when flexed out
 
IMHO I would remove the spacers and get extended bump stops. They will still rub just not as much.....
 
The other options is 1inch body lift from toytec.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm not willing to lift the body. Removing the spacers might just be the least intrusive option.
 
Ummm, you are running 35's and expecting it NOT to rub? Not sure who gave you advise but running anything over a 33" and wider than a 10.5, you are going to rub. Adding the wheel spacers will do no good until you get 2.5" if I recall.

I ran 35 X 10.5" with no flares, no spacers on OME 885's, later ICON coilovers, stock wheel spacing. BMThiker runs a 34" on his also, maybe he has changed.

It is the width that is the primary issue. Tall and skinny is the answer...

STR-11day1-01.jpg


fenderrails-a-1.jpg
 
I don't recall mentioning that I was "expecting it not to rub", I've had this truck since 2007 on 33's and went into this knowing one of the two would have to give.
I was asking for an opinion of which direction to take to stop rubbing my flare.
BTW: This is a Fierce 35, many run it with no rubbing. I'm just at a crossroad on which path to take, no spacer, or no flare.
thanks
 
I don't recall mentioning that I was "expecting it not to rub", I've had this truck since 2007 on 33's and went into this knowing one of the two would have to give.
I was asking for an opinion of which direction to take to stop rubbing my flare.
BTW: This is a Fierce 35, many run it with no rubbing. I'm just at a crossroad on which path to take, no spacer, or no flare.
thanks

So, you expected it to rub. If "many run it with no rubbing", what are you doing different than the "many" to get it to rub. Did you modify the body mount to run the 33's? As you can see in your picture, there is no where to go, why most I know kept the tire inside the wheel well or installed extended bump stops to reduce uptravel/stop rubbing.

Removing the flares won't give enough clearance taking the wheel spacers off won't bring the wide tire inboard enough to clear, but that's speculation looking at your picture.

Best way to get help is to provide: tire size, wheel specs, lift specs and any add-ons.

Don't mean to be arguementative, just need the facts to offer help...
 
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Im sure you dont mean to be argumentative but there is no argument to be had. I already knew removing one or the other will stop the rubbing. I was only asking for opinions.
I expected it to rub in the rear because unlike others, im using a 1.25 spacer.
Removing the spacers from the rear will stop the rubbing, or removing the flares will stop the rubbing.
Like I said in the OP
"So i have two options. Im running 1.25 Spidrtrax spacers. I can remove them from the rear or remove the flares all together. "

But dont worry about it. I decided to just remove the spacers and its clearing with zero rub now.

Thanks
 
Thanks Sammy, I read that a couple years ago, definitely a good read for most other 35's.
This is a Fierce 35 though. I'm no longer rubbing in full articulation front or back.
 
I decided to just remove the spacers and its clearing with zero rub now.

At least until you flex it. My 34" tires still rub inside the fender well when the real axle is flexed hard. I can live with it, but personally wouldn't want to go much if any bigger on tires. YMMV.
 
Im not rubbing the inner at all at full flex hitting the bump stop. This was on a slow crawl though, . are you running stock the wheel or slamming into the up travel?
 
Personally not a fan of spacers for engineering/physics reasons, but I say remove both.

I removed my fender flares on both front and back axles. Then I hammered the wheel wells on both front and back axles, mostly behind each wheel, and to push the plastic flare mounting sheet metal tabs out of the way. All the hammered sections got cleaned and sprayed with the rubbery 3m wheel well stuff. I still rub on the inside of the rear wells near the top of travel (I don't have extended bump stops yet). I also rub in the front wells near the firewall, but it doesn't always rub if I can get the caster adjusted just right.

Don't have stock wheels, but they have stock backspacing. Running 315/75/16 KM2s

Front wheel before I trimmed all the plastic back and hammered the area behind the wheel.
GSMTR2010_RC (110).JPG


Rear wheel before I hammered the back of the wells. Front of wheel actually clears fine, just hard to tell in this photo.
GSMTR2010_RC (119).JPG


From a few weeks back at Hot Springs ORV. Not trying to win any RTI awards, just curious what I could do.
2014-10_SCC_cbc (126).jpg
 
Im not rubbing the inner at all at full flex hitting the bump stop. This was on a slow crawl though, . are you running stock the wheel or slamming into the up travel?

I'm running stock steel wheels, stock bump stops and a Donohe/OME 3" lift. Rubs inside the wheel well when rock crawling.
 
Best score I got mine to make was 662, no pics to prove it though...
I didn't even measure it. Just wanted to compare it with a photo I took the year before. I'd wager that it was incrementally better this year after installing the MT rear links.
 
I'm running stock steel wheels, stock bump stops and a Donohe/OME 3" lift. Rubs inside the wheel well when rock crawling.

Like this...
tirerub-1.jpg


I didn't even measure it. Just wanted to compare it with a photo I took the year before. I'd wager that it was incrementally better this year after installing the MT rear links.

Only reason I know is that I went to 4 wheel parts and they gave me a print out...
 

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