Help with my overheating rig. (1 Viewer)

[kruisinkid]

Left side of block towards the back. About between cyl 5 and 6. It can be very hard to open, but worth it.

Dizzy/timing issue you mentioned might mean you have a vac leak and/or carb is so badly out of adjustment.

 

[Troop Toter]

Okay, here's the latest. I took the thermostat out the other day to make stew. It opened as the water was just beginning to boil. Small bubbles were starting to develop on the bottom of the pot. Maybe that was too warm for it to be opening. I've left it out and ordered a replacement for it from NAPA. I'm picking it up tomorrow. I've been out of work since coming home Tuesday with a nasty head cold bug and today is the first time I've crunk the truck. I had to take the garbouge to the dump and drove the truck with the rad full but with no thermostat. It's only about eight miles to the dump and back. The temp gauge hardly moved off the C. I'm hoping the new thermostat will make the difference. But before I put it in, I'm going to put the old radiator back in and run a chemical flush thru the system. I have run across a thread here where it is recommended to run Cascade thru the system and let is set overnight after reaching normal op temp and then get it back to temp before flushing that out. Unless you guys think not, I'll probably do that too. I want to get this right. The new water pump will be here Tuesday and I'm off on Thursday so that will be the day of the big flush and installation of the new thermostat and pump.
So kick this around and let me know what the voices tell you. Thanks all, rog

 

[Troop Toter]

Left side of block towards the back. About between cyl 5 and 6. It can be very hard to open, but worth it.

Dizzy/timing issue you mentioned might mean you have a vac leak and/or carb is so badly out of adjustment.

I'm about to go downstairs, crawl up under there and take a look, planning for next Thursday's operation. Wait, that's Thanksgiving. Oh well, everybody is meeting here anyway. I'll be here all day and the guys can sit around the garage and watch. And you mentioned the carb and vacuum leaks. I replaced the exhaust manifold with the headers I got from JTOutfitters, which fit like a glove, btw, and naturally put a new gasket under the headers and intake manifold. I spread just a little gasket maker around on the gasket just to be sure there were no leaks and everything sounds good on that side. However, to get to your point. I read in the manual where you should screw the idle mixture screw all the way in and then back it out one and one quarter turns for a good starting point. When I turned it in, I counted five (5) full turns to get it to bottom out. Playing with it while trying to keep it idling, I found the sweet spot was about three to three and a half turns out. With the dist turned a little counterclockwise from what should be 7' btdc and the carb idle screw where it is, this is the best it has run since she moved here. I put a new vacuum line from the carb to the dist also.
You guys have given be awesome advice, whipped me a little, chided me and corrected my ways. I can't thank you enough. Keep it coming. rog
Oh, and I'm going to put the burperator in too.

 

[roadstr6]

I had a similar issue with a practically new Autorad brand thermostat. I swapped it for a genuine Touota themostat and both new gaskets and problem solved. Stay with the OEM thermo if you don't want to go through this again in a year.

 

[skidplate]

 

[FJ40Jim]

3.5 turns out and base timing of 10*BTDC is about right for that combo.

 

[kruisinkid]

have you checked the idle speed with a tach? spec is 650-700. if its much higher, that could be covering up a vac leak. headers can make all kinds of vac issues for most guys.

when burping, make sure it gets up to operating temp and the heater valve is open. mine was coughing up bubbles for a good 15 minutes. its had to get mine past the first tick past C now at full operating temp. it was easily pushed between 3/4 and H at 65mph on the highway in summer. i can't stress proper burping enough.

small bubbles will form at around 180* in a pot of water and then take much more time to get to 212* at rolling full boil. so don't doubt the thermo just yet. again, as have others, you will read here over and over again how going from any aftermarket thermo to OEM solves many guys' problems. an OEM sender is highly rec'd too.

 

[Troop Toter]

3.5 turns out and base timing of 10*BTDC is about right for that combo.

Thanks for the reinforcement. She runs better than she has since I've had her and is much, much easier to crank: a little feathering of the throttle and she wakes right up. A little choke if she's cold.

I put the new thermostat in that I got from NAPA and I have the exact same problem. I'll order one from the Toyota store when I get to work in the morning. I'm going to put the old radiator back in and flush the system on Thanksgiving day. I don't want a bunch of garbage blocking my new rad. I'll put the new thermostat in too. I'm planning on putting in the burp contraption also.

A problem I've had, is getting parts, especially at the Toyota store. They're all computerized and the computer doesn't know what to do with a ten digit VIN. If I had someone's 17 digit VIN, it would be much easier to order parts. Anybody want to volunteer? Is this a bad idea?

I really, really appreciate you guys and your input. I haven't read any yet that I haven't given serious thought to.

 

[kruisinkid]

i use villagetoyotaparts.com for the pictures to get the modern part number, and then order from toyotapartszone.com because their 29% off beats anyones price. anyone. but if you need to talk it out with the most knowledgeable parts guy around, Cdan here is the man to talk to.

 

[Troop Toter]

i use villagetoyotaparts.com for the pictures to get the modern part number, and then order from toyotapartszone.com because their 29% off beats anyones price. anyone. but if you need to talk it out with the most knowledgeable parts guy around, Cdan here is the man to talk to.

Wow, I see what you mean. Those pictures are the best thing I've run across for finding part numbers. Thanks for that. Both those websites are now in my favorites. I had to tear myself away from the pictures to come back here to thank you. Now I'm going back. And I'll keep Cdan in my back pocket. Thanks again. rog

 

[sggoat]

I had a similar issue with a practically new Autorad brand thermostat. I swapped it for a genuine Touota themostat and both new gaskets and problem solved. Stay with the OEM thermo if you don't want to go through this again in a year.

OEM all the way--after three aftermarkets, finally got the right one!

 

[sggoat]

Thanks for the reinforcement. She runs better than she has since I've had her and is much, much easier to crank: a little feathering of the throttle and she wakes right up. A little choke if she's cold.

I put the new thermostat in that I got from NAPA and I have the exact same problem. I'll order one from the Toyota store when I get to work in the morning. I'm going to put the old radiator back in and flush the system on Thanksgiving day. I don't want a bunch of garbage blocking my new rad. I'll put the new thermostat in too. I'm planning on putting in the burp contraption also.

A problem I've had, is getting parts, especially at the Toyota store. They're all computerized and the computer doesn't know what to do with a ten digit VIN. If I had someone's 17 digit VIN, it would be much easier to order parts. Anybody want to volunteer? Is this a bad idea?

I really, really appreciate you guys and your input. I haven't read any yet that I haven't given serious thought to.

Give Beno or Stewart a call--they know that the LCs don't have current VIN'S--give them your vehicle ID #--you'll get the parts you need

 

[roadstr6]

Beno (Onur) X2. He will fix you right up. Great guy too!

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

Troop Toter, nice rig!

-Alan

This is in my driveway, one I use everyday. I stopped here and checked to see if the level was any lower after topping it up and, no, no change. It was full to the brim. Would going higher do any good? View attachment 968139

 

[Troop Toter]

An update: Today I picked up my new OEM thermostat from the Toyota store parts dept. before my time to be at work. Went it to my dept. and was told to go home. You'd think I had the plague, but it's just TB, the flu, or something. Anyway, I could use the day off. I drained the water by pulling the block drain, the one Kruisinkid located for me. I also pulled the radiator, the new one, and put the old one back in and took the thermostat out. I didn't want to clog up my new rad. I didn't put the new t-stat in. After draining all the coolant and hooking up all the hoses and such, I put in four or five cups of Cascade powder ( I lost count ). I then took it for a ten or fifteen mile tour of the back country. Always in the past, it would run cold without the t-stat, never moving off the C on the temp gauge. Well today, after getting warm, the gauge began to move. A little at first, then all the way up to the mid-range of the gauge. It stayed in that range anytime I had the RPM's up. When I'd come to a stop sign, it would go back toward the C but come right back up with RPM's. I'm imagining it was the Cascade doing it's job and loosening "stuff". Anyway, it's never acted like that without a t-stat. On the way back home, I stopped at the mail box and UPS had left a box on my neighbor's porch. It was my new water pump from SOR. I have a beef with those folks but I'll get to that. I left the Cascade in the system to soak overnight and tomorrow I'll run it again bringing it up to temp and allow it to cool before putting in the new water pump, t-stat, fan belt and coolant mixture. This after draining and flushing several times with plain water. I'll use deionized, nonmagnetic, distilled, pure, non-chemical, radiation free, ultra micron filtered, bacteria free, eco friendly, gorilla piss in my final coolant mixture using Walmarts finest brand X anti-freeze.
Now, my beef: When I got SOR's box home, I was anxious to see my new water pump so I gently opened the box only to find the packing material was made up of newspaper that had been cut into strips. Many, many strips of paper. Sure it makes good packing material, but when I pulled the inner box with the pump in it out, I set the outer box with the paper strips aside. All those strips of paper. Many strips, thousands. That's when the voices said, "What'd that say?" "What?" "The strips, what'd they say?" "Ah shlt, not now". So I spent all afternoon trying to put those stupid strips together to see what they said. But noooooo, SOR had to use 19,000 different papers to cut up, no two of which were in my box. Ask me how I know. Stupid SOR.

 

[Solace in Solitude]

Perhaps a doctor visit is in order.. not sure what type

 

[rusty_tlc]

Could have been worse, it could have come from China.

 

[Steamer]

Don't forget the block drain.

 

[Downey]

I was wondering about proper hose/bypass hose installation, but your photos seem to clear that up. So then my only other comment is "what's half way between this line and that line on a factory temp gauge". Many thought their engines were overheating after engine swaps because they got new readings on their stock Toyota gauge, but the new V6/V8 engines were actually operating inside their normal ranges. A dash gauge showing numerical values is priceless.

 

[Troop Toter]

Okay Downey, or anybody else, tell me about gauges. As you'll see in my next post, I need a gauge with temp markings and I don't want to fool with this stock gauge. What kind did you use, what brand? Can I use the same sending unit? (do I want to?) Where can I get a sending unit with the thread size and pattern that will fit my stock F2? Any information will be appreciated.