Shop Time for OME install (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 5, 2012
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5
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Location
Gallatin Gateway, MT
Greetings all....Just wondering how much shop time it took to install an OME suspension kit (front/rear shocks, rear springs, front torsion bars, diff drop kit, and alignment)? I don't have the tools or the time to do it myself, so I'd just like a rough estimate (4 hrs? 5 hrs?) on how long (or how much you were charged) to get the kit installed minus the cost of parts at a professional garage/dealer. Thanks!
 
It's been a while, but I left mine at the shop I purchased the kit from (sans diff drop) and left it there for the day. Picked it up after work.

I'm guestimating here, but 4 hours top for everything you have listed above.
 
Don't want to side track this too much, but is the cost of the OME lift kit roughly the same if you have AHC compared to a non-AHC cruiser?
 
Mine was there for the day but took until the next day to finish because my shop has to send out for alignments
 
I just did mine, the shop took all day but included the alignment. One thing I would recommend doing now or during the installation is upgrading your CV clamps. I went with a mild 2 inch lift and both CVs are leaking now. Ck @pfran42 solution in the vendors section. It's going to cost me $400 per side to replace. I have ordered the clamps and hope they will work now that the grease is out, I should have spent the $30 and done it proactively.
Btw I too bought/installed a diff drop bracket which is "supposed" to protect against tearing the cv boots....it didn't....

As for the cost of the instal $600 plus $125 for the alignment which the shop handled.
 
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I just did mine, the shop took all day but included the alignment. One thing I would recommend doing now or during the installation is upgrading your CV clamps. I went with a mild 2 inch lift and both CVs are leaking now. Ck @pfran42 solution in the vendors section. It's going to cost me $400 per side to replace. I have ordered the clamps and hope they will work now that the grease is out, I should have spent the $30 and done it proactively.
Btw I too bought/installed a diff drop bracket which is "supposed" to protect against tearing the cv boots....it didn't....

As for the cost of the instal $600 plus $125 for the alignment which the shop handled.

before putting on the new clamps, squeeze the nipple of the grease gun between the shaft and boot and shoot some grease in there if you think that much has leaked out. I did this 4 or 5 years ago on our LX and its been fine.
 
Thanks all, I figured it was around 4 hours, I just wanted to make sure that it could be done in a reasonable day as I plan to get it installed where I work, as opposed to live. Thanks for the heads up about the CV clamps...$30 seems like an easy preventative maint item...
 
before putting on the new clamps, squeeze the nipple of the grease gun between the shaft and boot and shoot some grease in there if you think that much has leaked out. I did this 4 or 5 years ago on our LX and its been fine.
Thanks for posting this (not trying to hijack) bc I wasn't looking fwd on spending $800 for two new CVs. It's good to know that it does work and is long lasting. In my mind it seems pretty straight fwd on how to instal, I just wish there was a guide posted on how to since I'm not mechanically inclined. Or at least the type of grease to use.....
 
As long as you don't have any clicking or issues with the joints there should be no reason it wont last. Its pretty straight forward but if you search there is probably a diy. I just went with oem style clamps and bought the crimping tool as I was not 100% happy about putting hose clamps over the existing stock clamps. I cut off the old ones, pushed some grease in and using the tool crimped on new clamps and thats about it. I think I used some synthetic moly grease (i think it was valvoline) and have had no issues.
 
@Ali FJ80
As long as you don't have any clicking or issues with the joints there should be no reason it wont last. Its pretty straight forward but if you search there is probably a diy. I just went with oem style clamps and bought the crimping tool as I was not 100% happy about putting hose clamps over the existing stock clamps. I cut off the old ones, pushed some grease in and using the tool crimped on new clamps and thats about it. I think I used some synthetic moly grease (i think it was valvoline) and have had no issues.
Thanks again! Ill give it a try, I cant see me messing things any worse lol
 
Fwiw we plan on 6 hours for a non-AHC 100 w/Diff-drop, that is start to finish with some time for the alignment drop-off/pick-up. An AHC rig is more like 8-10 hours depending how much delete your doing and what your doing with the dash lights. We generally pull the cluster 100% and disable the lights.
 
I did the AHC-to-OME suspension swap myself minus the diff drop in about four hours. Subsequently, I spent approximately another two hours pulling the instrumentation cluster and electrical-taping off the AHC indicator lights. You'd never know they are there. Then I had Slee do the diff drop (I stripped a bolt and didn't want to deal with it) and the local Toyota dealer do a "Slee alignment". And then I spent approximately another two hours stripping all the AHC fluid lines and electrical... and it's still not all gone (I couldn't get at the bolts that hold the lines to the rear shocks so they are staying there).

Aj
 
Hi Aj, I am doing the removal AHC work now, and having some trouble here, how do you do the computer tricks? To tell the computer car in normal model? I believe if I don't do the computer work it will not allow me run over 40 Kms/h. And what model OME you got for your 470? ARB in New Zealand told me they do not have any coils and shocks for AHC replacement. Please indicate me!!! Felix
 
Just did mine a few weeks ago with some friends, in my garage. Took about 10+ hours to do entire install ourselves. Took it to an alignment shop the next day and alignment took less than an hour. The lift install would have been done sooner, but that included time spent going to Home Depot for a tool we needed, using makeshift tools (cheater bars, etc.) and basically, not having a hydraulic lift. After doing one, it's actually not that hard, but getting the torsion bars lined up the same on both sides, etc., that's the hardest part. Not sure why lift instructions say do the rear first. The rear is a piece of cake. I'd rather do the front first, when I have the most energy. The rear can go last, since it doesn't take as much strength or thinking. my two cents.
 
Hi Kevin, just wondering to know did you do anything for computer? I am worry after install normal suspension the computer does not allow me drive over 20 mile/hour. Did you just disconnected the AHC sensor? And put new shocks and coils and replaced the factory one? Regards many thanks
Just did mine a few weeks ago with some friends, in my garage. Took about 10+ hours to do entire install ourselves. Took it to an alignment shop the next day and alignment took less than an hour. The lift install would have been done sooner, but that included time spent going to Home Depot for a tool we needed, using makeshift tools (cheater bars, etc.) and basically, not having a hydraulic lift. After doing one, it's actually not that hard, but getting the torsion bars lined up the same on both sides, etc., that's the hardest part. Not sure why lift instructions say do the rear first. The rear is a piece of cake. I'd rather do the front first, when I have the most energy. The rear can go last, since it doesn't take as much strength or thinking. my two cents.
 
Hi Kevin, just wondering to know did you do anything for computer? I am worry after install normal suspension the computer does not allow me drive over 20 mile/hour. Did you just disconnected the AHC sensor? And put new shocks and coils and replaced the factory one? Regards many thanks

US spec computers don't have any interaction with the speed and the AHC system in terms of limiting speed, rather they lower the AHC at certain speeds but it won't limit speed. What model do you have? (year, model, market)
 
US spec computers don't have any interaction with the speed and the AHC system in terms of limiting speed, rather they lower the AHC at certain speeds but it won't limit speed. What model do you have? (year, model, market)
hi much appreciate you reply me, my model is Land cruiser 100 IFS Diesel VX LIMITED, year 2000. (New Zealand, I believe they have same system with yours LC/470) So i just disconnect the AHC unit in unit box which located beside battery? and remove the AHC sensor then put a new shock and coil for it? that's is? Do i need to do anything for the techstream? Many thanks. Felix
 

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