Blown head gasket repair, older siamese "F" block. (1962/3) (1 Viewer)

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Interesting...

Went to Napa for the pilot bearing and ended up with some questions.​
The 62 had a koyo bearing, open on one side.
The 70 had a nichi, closed with metal on both sides.
He offered me another (subaru application), that had rubber to seal both sides.

I bought the koyo (oem) for $7, and the sealed unit (same spec- 602 bearing) for $27.
He was an old timer, and seemed to know what was up. I'd love to hear some opinions before I stab this thing up (this weekend).

Thanks
 
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I used the rubber sealed bearing. Better dust proof. When you use the open bearing I'd put some extra grease in the hole.
 
I have never used anything but an oem headgasket and super clean head and block surfaces. Never had an issue with the f engines or any of the hundreds of headgaskets Ive done over 25 years as a mechanic. I have used copper spray on sbc engines using very thin metal gaskets to increase CR but only for that special application. I do not recommend anything but the gasket! The gasket is so thick it could probably seal a head that was .050 out! The hardest part for me doing it in the rig by myself is lifting that heavy cast iron on and over the oil feed line for the rockers without bending or breaking the line! Looking good btw!
 
I used the rubber sealed bearing. Better dust proof. When you use the open bearing I'd put some extra grease in the hole.

X2

I would think it should be a sealed bearing. On the Koyo bearing the open side should be facing crank shaft. A little extra won't hurt but not to much. Don't want the bearing to try press itself out. Unlike the throw-out bearing this bearing actually doesn't spin much, only when the clutch pedal is pushed in is it spinning unless the disc is slipping. Going dry or dirt/water getting is probably the biggest reason for failure.

You say the Koyo is OEM. How do you know this is OEM spec for this application. Did Napa look the part up or match what was in there? A few times I want to be sure I have the right part, this is probably one of them and buy from Toyota. My guess with the first ten digit part number conversion Toyota could cross reference to a current number.
 
Koyo matched their parts book as the oem. Doesn't mean it's right of course, just what they say.
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Going back after it. I'm sealing up the timing set, but this seems off.
shouldn't my woodruff also keep this guard from slapping around? Sure seems like it to me.
 
Is there a bushing or spacer missing, or is it that the key on the timing gear is too short?
 
Thankfully this will be fairly easy to revisit, but I'd like to know now (while it's on a stand).
 
there will not be any play for to aft in the oil slinger once the crankshaft pulley is installed
 
have you removed either your cam gear or the grankshaft timing gear? they do not appear to be mated flush.................
 
do you have any end play on your crankshaft? a tiny bit is normal but enough could reveal some trouble with thrust bearings
 
I have no play on the crank, but I can get the cam to move a tiny bit.
It may have just been the camera angle.
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I haven't pulled either btw.

Didn't see a need, as the only visible leak was the front seal.

Any reason I should? Not having a puller is the main reason I havent.
 
front main and the timing cover gasket should be fine

sorry your getting this in bits and pieces but another thing to be careful with when re-assembling is the placement of the 2 longer 6mm bolts. off the top of my head I believe they go in the 12 and 3 o'clock positions. anything but the correct holes will yield a bent backplate and it will have to be replaced at that point
 
Thanks. I caught that when I pulled them, but I still probed the holes for depth before I put the bolts back in.
I used permatex 2 for the gasket, but "right stuff" for the bolts that go in the galley.
 
Now I'm wondering: shouldn't that cam gear be of the infamous fiber type? Does that mean this one was replaced before or did Toyota change that before 1962?
 
News to me, but I do believe this motor has been torn down before (as evidenced by the scratch on the bottom of the head).

Going with regard to my back. ;)
Going without spray. Everybody I've spoken with says "you can, but I wouldn't". Imunna roll.
Ready to stab...
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Should I be able to generate enough oil pressure (by hand) with a screwdriver?

I'm getting nothing up top right now...
 

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