Cruiser dies while driving (1 Viewer)

[Slow Left]

This stew sounds amazing!

Really like the idea of using the mind against itself! I really believe that!

Thanks for sharing. I am going to have to spend another day troubleshooting my vehicle, as I'm spending it with my boys and my wife. Hopefully by the end of the weekend I can figure it out. And I get away without spending a small fortune

Yep, that's one delicious stew...partly because I peeled the hell out of those potatoes...

Diagnosing is often the most tricky part...if it's throwing a code that might help you narrow it down. If I come up with any ideas I'll be sure to post 'em up!

 

[Oaks]

Yep, that's one delicious stew...partly because I peeled the hell out of those potatoes...

Diagnosing is often the most tricky part...if it's throwing a code that might help you narrow it down. If I come up with any ideas I'll be sure to post 'em up!

Thanks sir!! Those potatoes!

When I figure it out I will be sure to post a response.

 

[ff347]

I hate anything electrical, especially one that is hit and miss. Try making a "jumper" for a ground with one side of a jumper cable, sounds like you do not have a good ground.

 

[Oaks]

Ok guys, just ran the onboard diagnostic and pulled a code 51...

Do any of these seem like the root cause? Not much to go off of

 

[Slow Left]

...Neutral Start Switch...it's part of the Starter Circuit on the automatic transmission (A/T)...see the circuit diagram I posted and also see the 3F FSM to see if there is a procedure for testing it's function.

Makes sense. If there is a bad switch, you'll have problems starting and possibly idling...

 

[Slow Left]

Might want to search here on MUD or Google to see what problems other folks had with 'Code 51' and see if it fits the symptoms you are experiencing:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-diagnostic-code-51.386859/
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-3fe-idle-problems-finally-fixed.273855/

EDIT: Oh, and check the troubleshooting procedures for the EFI system in the 3FE manual for components listed under that code...like the TPS etc....should have the procedures for testing them out to make sure they are function correctly...

 

[Slow Left]

Just checked the fusible links like you explained. They all looked good except for one. (The orange wire shown) not sure what this goes to. Followed it down to the Tcase area, thinking it's part of old trailer wiring that I removed a few months ago... View attachment 957403

If you have a spare, good fuse that you can swap into that bad fuse in the orange wire, you might go ahead and give that a try to see if the symptoms go away.

It's a low cost try...if you already have the right fuse....I'm wondering if that is some sort of mod that the PO might have done to rewire into the Neutral Switch, but I could be wrong...no way to tell from here...maybe just give it a try...

 

[Slow Left]

Any idea what terminal I was checking? The diagram of terminal B from the FSM is kinda vague

Studying the schematic in the 3FE FSM for field testing the alternator, the wire that leads to Terminal B comes from the battery.

Looking at the Charging System Circuit in the 3FE FSM, you can see where the other two Terminals on the alternator lead to...'Charge' fuse and 'Engine' fuse/Ignition Relay...

...and by the power of deduction, you might be able to reason which one is, in fact, Terminal B...but again, I'd put this low on the priority list and high on the risk exposure, since as I mentioned before, you should make sure you understand what the correct procedure is for taking Ammeter measurements off of a running alternator...

 

[Oaks]

Slow Left, thank you so much for all of your time and effort!!

It's fixed!!

So after running through pretty much my whole electrical system I have confidence that it is all good! Whew! Finally decided to bite the bullet and dropped a rebuilt Nippon Denso alternator in (picked it up at the local CarQuest). Took about 2 hrs, from start to finish. During that time the battery was on the charger. Once everything was buttoned up under the hood, came the moment of truth...she fired right up! I checked the voltage at the battery terminals 14v steady! This matched the instrument cluster! Actually I have never seen my gauge that high, even after replacing the battery.

I am so excited to have this gremlin sorted!

Slow left said that undoing batter cables when car is running is not a good test. But I wanted to see if My cruiser still surged after replacing the alternator...just for good measure. After undoing the cables she ran like a top! Even more excited

Thanks once again Slow Left for pushing me through this.

I am not going to turn my alternator in for a core, might try my hand at rebuilding it just to have a spare, even though the new one is lifetime warrantied.

This thread lead me to finally just change the alternator. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-alternator.339471/

 

[Slow Left]

Slow Left, thank you so much for all of your time and effort!!

It's fixed!!

So after running through pretty much my whole electrical system I have confidence that it is all good! Whew! Finally decided to bite the bullet and dropped a rebuilt Nippon Denso alternator in (picked it up at the local CarQuest). Took about 2 hrs, from start to finish. During that time the battery was on the charger. Once everything was buttoned up under the hood, came the moment of truth...she fired right up! I checked the voltage at the battery terminals 14v steady! This matched the instrument cluster! Actually I have never seen my gauge that high, even after replacing the battery.

I am so excited to have this gremlin sorted!

Slow left said that undoing batter cables when car is running is not a good test. But I wanted to see if My cruiser still surged after replacing the alternator...just for good measure. After undoing the cables she ran like a top! Even more excited

Thanks once again Slow Left for pushing me through this.

I am not going to turn my alternator in for a core, might try my hand at rebuilding it just to have a spare, even though the new one is lifetime warrantied.

This thread lead me to finally just change the alternator. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj62-alternator.339471/

Sweet! Congrats, Oaks! Glad you got it sorted out...even with me telling you to disregard the alternator....doh!

 

[Oaks]

Sweet! Congrats, Oaks! Glad you got it sorted out...even with me telling you to disregard the alternator....doh!

That's is ok! You can make it up to me by making some of that stew!

 

[Slow Left]

That's is ok! You can make it up to me by making some of that stew!

Ha, Ha! Will do...I'll get on that potato peeling...practice makes perfect...

 

[Slow Left]

I am not going to turn my alternator in for a core, might try my hand at rebuilding it just to have a spare, even though the new one is lifetime warrantied

You know, Oaks, I'm wondering if it was the Voltage Regulator on the Alternator that was bad. For the 60 '2F FSM' I know there is a procedure for testing that regulator (it's a resistance measurement, so you should be able to run the test with the alternator uninstalled) to see if it is good or not. Then getting a new regulator (if tests bad) and alternator 'rebuild' kit (brushes etc.) would put you in a position with a good, rebuilt OEM alternator...as you have already described...

Maybe double check either the 3F or 3FE FSM to see if they give a procedure for testing the Alternator Regulator?

After the fix, have you gone back and run the OBD to see if it is still throwing a code? Would be interesting to see if that was indeed the reason why the code was there...

 

[Oaks]

You read mind!

I need to check the OBD still. I sure hope it has reset. Interesting... Maybe it was hiding for quite some time

 

[Slow Left]

You read mind!

I need to check the OBD still. I sure hope it has reset. Interesting... Maybe it was hiding for quite some time

Alright...yeah, not trying to rain on the parade or anything, just trying to think for your benefit...

I have an FJ60, so I'm not familiar with what it takes to reset the OBD and then how long it takes for the OBD to 'find' new codes...so maybe FSM or some other MUDer might be able to let you know if you are in the all clear or not...

Either way, nice fix, Oaks!!