Look what I found.... 1961 FJ40 FST (1 Viewer)

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so if anyone remembers 'project patina' (1964 fj45) from the 45 page. this is really the only old ball and claw axle i have had apart. it came with no axles and a very seized 4wd lever. anyways i had this wreck. it is a 63 or 64 (chassis number is welded over). was a great source of bits and pieces for patina.

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this wreck supplied the axles, one swivel hub (po broken bolts) and one spindle (missing outer bushing completely) and much other sundry. checked this diff housing tonight and the frond housing has a step machined to accept a seal. the 61 axle is unmachined under the bushing. they are definately different (got no pics yet). it interests me because i really dont remember the inner bushing on the 64 patina. i remember buying a swivel kit of some sort. this was prob nearly ten yrs ago long before i heard of mud. im sure i would remember pulling and then reinstalling these inner bushings. does anyone think it feasible that toyota played with the seal idea in 63/64 then went back to the inner bushing? it is unlikely that both patina and this wreck both have later housings. do ball and claw axles even fit the later housings? and who would do this anyway? it really interests me now. feel like getting patina in the shed and pulling a side apart just to clear this up in my own mind and check im not going mad.

funny thing is i had patina mostly apart late last year. one spindle failed (it actually snapped through) and the other remaining spindle from above wreck was called into service. i definately remember swapping the outer bushing at this point but there was no need to delve any deeper.

i feel like west aussie and his memory are out on a limb here!
 
I'm willing to bet that project patina earned a replacement axle assembly sometime in the last 50 years. Such an easy swap, almost not worth a repair if you have later ones laying about. Swivel kits would.be the same or close enough so you wouldn't notice.

Toyota held on to the bushing until 68? Fuzzy on this new stuff but there was a short production where the bushing used was larger diameter for the different axle. The ball and claw can't survive with seal only and no suppport from the bushing. CV/birf can support itself.
 
yea that prob right cruisernerd. i really want to look into this (or inside patina). quiet a coincidence if both patina and the wreck pictured had the axle swap. at any rate the wreck donated the ball and claw axles to patina and has a housing with a step machined for a seal. perhaps running ball claw without the bush caused my spindle to fail in patina? interest me.

thanks too for the bushing offer. appreciated. i do have a couple of old wrecks to play with so not completely hard up just yet. (but dont throw them!) it always pains me to hear of old axle assemblies going for scrap; esp if the bushing (and axles) are nla. a lot of the stuff i play with has had a hard life so this is prob always going to be an ongoing issue for me. nothing gets scrapped under my watch but then again i dont have any space issues.

anyways small progress an hour at a time. last night manufactured a better slide hammer and got donor bush removed. they are different left to right; the difference is in the orientation of the oil groove that screws the oil back into the housing as the axle turns.

tonight installed the bush in project shorty. then with degreaser and waterspit cleaned inside housing. got it dry with air then washed out with a petrol rag. cleaned up the outer ball part of the housing with emery and petrol; also the housing face the diff mounts to. cleaned out diff with kero and a spray gun and blew kero through the housing as an afterthought then sealed everything up with rags ready for reassembly. cant wait to get this roller again and back in a shed under light so i can tinker at an evening at will. nights lovely here just now. many of the diff bolts came out stud and all so seperated what i could of these. a couple i will replace; battered threads and nuts etc. finally cleaned an entire workbench (no small undertaking in my mess) and set up my gearbox, master clys and etc ready for further work. there is plenty i could have gone on with under lights but feel i have enough stuff in pieces at the moment! so called it a night.

realise i am overdocumenting this thread but is good computer practice for me and an interesting record for me to look back on. hope no-one minds. mostly i have some local enthusiasm for my 'projects' but there is a lot of 'why are you tinkering with that rusty lump' going on here with this one haha. (youre an exception bumstein!). it is you mudders that keep me motivated to see this through!

finally, a pic. when i cleaned this up tonight it shows how worn this bush and axle were. the silver markings on the left shows where the axle had been wearing its way into the diff housing! new bush already installed in this pic. incidentally the damage is hardly discerable on the inner axle itself (apart from being 2mm thinner where it ran in the bush)

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a pic of the 'stepped' front diff housing in the wreck pictured in post 161 above. this donated ball and claw axles to project patina.

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westy, don't stop the story - there's no such thing as over-documenting an early. I posted in an Aussie wide 40 Facebook page for your column shift parts earlier today. Hopefully someone will respond.
 
thanks for that cult. i also have a lead to follow up myself in this regard. no wasnt stopping the story. more apologising for (than asking permission for) some of the pointless detail. took a little time over lunch. installed all diff studs, removed cleaned and reinstalled both diff breathers. spoke to a bearing specialist and it seems my new bearings are fine. though they are a different number and profile the overall dimensions are the same; ie this bearing replaces the older one. (with longer rollers so presumably more robust). now if my diff gaskets turn up on monday as planned i am all set to throw this front end back together. and get this thing rolling again!
 
It's easier to ask for forgiveness than it is to ask for permission.
 
I can't seem to add pics to a PM, but here's that FJ28 I was discussing with you. Oddly enough it's a shorty! And it sold for near on $5k. Now that's a financial commitment!

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Note the handmade doors. If Mr. Toyoda's early designations were wheelbase-centric, I wonder why this was a 28..?

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Stone the crows shes running the very controversial stovebolt conversion, she has the matching radiator very tidy
 
interesting old 28 that; its been on mud before (#17). a nice thing but got a couple issues. they are the aussie doors though. aussie 25s were imported in knocked down form including the jap cowl, screen and floor. the remainder of the bodies from the screen back (inc. the doors) were built by b&d motors in melb. they made several different body styles. plenty of this info in other threads (like the thiess thread).

meanwhile in project shorty...... played a few hrs this arvo. got swivel blocks mounted and everything else front axle cleaned and ready to go. waiting on diff gasket to continue (turned up tonight). nice to see a tiny bit of assembly!

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started tinkereing with a little suspension while i was waiting. a whole other can of worms here; esp the rear. wasnt going to tacle any of this yet; had planned to drive a little to loosen things up and crunch up the old rubber bushings. anyhow..... is ugly at the rear!

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got the heat out and removed a number of po broken studs. all been heated several times before.

anyways a question (not having any 40 wrecks only 45). this pin above that locates with the 2 broken studs and goes through the rubber bushings; is it the same unit front to rear suspension and same as 45 front suspension? will pull a 45 one shortly but be nice to have the heads up if anyone knows?
 
so tinker tinker. pulled one of these and determined them the same front, rear, 40, 45 as i had hoped.

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kept playing suspension; ie that rear ugliness pictured in the above post. really been avoiding this but found the old rust easier to remove than i had anticipated. heat is the go; managed to keep heating the rust glowing red then chip, rattle it out with sharp chisel. it is easy to get the rust glowing and not heat the existing orig metal. believe could blow the rust out with a cutting tip (might try this on the other side) but need a smaller tip than i have. needs a tiny bit more but tonights progress compared to pics in above post.

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nearly ready to re-weld these. orientation is a little issue; everything very distorted. currently thinking to fit new rubbers then find a long piece of solid bar thats a neat fit and put it right through side to side and tack weld the spread parts into position after a bit of measure from some point on the chassis. perhaps. perhaps i will just get rough instead!

anyway got most of this apart. of the 8 studs that locate these pins around the shorty 5 were po broken. got 2 yet to remove but havent tackled them yet. confident i can sort all this now; it had been worrying me.
 
got my possible donor indicator mount off. determined they the same. (donor a 64)

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but... the 2 pins that located some of the missing mechanism; pictured here near my finger

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notice they are missing on the donor but intact on the 61 original. makes me less enthused to sacrifice the original (as mentioned earlier somewhere). anyone know how they locate in the alloy; ie are they removable?


finally an EASY QUESTION. wasnt planning on tackling the suspension yet but into it now. how long does this rubber bush run yearwise? got a mate driving up from the city tomorrow and hoping he can get me some rubbers at short notice. i obviously going to ask him to get the earliest he can find but will say a 1969 (that famous landcruiser age) do the job for me? if anyone knows this off top off their head would appreciate it as i have to call him in the morning. thanks mudders!
 
Unsure rubbers, though I would hazard a guess that pre-'70 would be the shot, and they are readily available. Maybe get em anyway?

As for the indicator assy. I'm also unsure, but here's a pic of mine.

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finally an EASY QUESTION. wasnt planning on tackling the suspension yet but into it now. how long does this rubber bush run yearwise? got a mate driving up from the city tomorrow and hoping he can get me some rubbers at short notice. i obviously going to ask him to get the earliest he can find but will say a 1969 (that famous landcruiser age) do the job for me? if anyone knows this off top off their head would appreciate it as i have to call him in the morning. thanks mudders!

dont know if this will help, but here's a pic of the energy suspension bushings i ran in annie. fit perfectly.
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been distracted over at the 45 page lately but project shorty is not abandoned!

thanks for the info regards suspension; still working on all this.

got front diff in and long axle mostly built. ended up using all donor; ie bushes axles and spindle from the same clean wreck. prob do same on the other side; outer axle pitted where it runs in the spindle bushing. and both spindle bushes have spun and were loose in the spindle.

but then a part of me got to thinking it might be worth shimming and loctiting the loose spindle bush back in. even for no other reason than to see what you can get away with. (and keep it original haha)
 
ahh THE FOG! welcome aboard!

no still on 'the hoist'. front axle coming together though; slow steady progress!

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here a pic of the swelling rust i am dealing with at the spring hangers. this has been heated and let cool to loosen it; ready for chipping out with a chisel.

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all the old wheel bearings have been washed and repacked. a bit rough but they will suffice. also took the 'interesting' rout and decided to repair the spun right spindle bush with shim and a retaining compound. personal amusement really; like to see how this holds up over time
 
got couple half hrs in over the last week. slow and steady wins the race i hope! front axle built to spindle both sides. still tinkering suspension; chipping away that rust. heat works very well. getting me interested in tackling the chassis in my old mack (pops up the background of pics sometime) which has similar issues on a much larger scale between the double skin chassis. slow and steady pics

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