more break power on a PZJ75 (1 Viewer)

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Is you current brake booster working properly? I have never found the brake booster to be inadequate. The problems 7* series have with their brakes is a combination of many things.
If you can eliminate them all ,the brakes are good.
 
Is you current brake booster working properly? I have never found the brake booster to be inadequate. The problems 7* series have with their brakes is a combination of many things.
If you can eliminate them all ,the brakes are good.

Well - I changed the brakefluid, installed better brake pads, changed the hoses for steel ones ( stahlflex ). Still need to change one callipar. What other things do I need to check ?
Running bigger tires doesn't help, same as the arround 3 - 3,3t travel weight ;)

I installed a FJCruiser brake master cylinder and proportioning valve on my HJ75 = very good brakes.

For what do I need that proportioning valve ? Or is that a replacement for the load/brake system in the reat ?
 
80 series brake booster will the best choice with dual diaphragm to be upgraded
except the rod will need to be extended.
 
80 series brake booster will the best choice with dual diaphragm to be upgraded
except the rod will need to be extended.

So I keep my pistion and "just" swap the booster - extension is welded or something to bolt on ?

if your's it's pre 90 you should have front 9.5 3rd .. if so you can upgrade your calipers to S13WB with 1" MC

I have the smaller diffs :-(
 
Yes. Direct bolt in.
You can have multi way for extension.
weld it or machine an extension rod to the pedal.
 
75 series brake sucks big time. I also got EBC green pads (good improvement but still far away from good brakes), steel flex lines, slotted discs etc. With the 285 I can't lock the tires at 2.7tons, now with 3.7-3.8tons travel weight it's a joke how the car brakes, even with the EBC.

I once saw a dual diaphragm booster upgrade from Australia for the 75 series, but don't know where that was...
 
You blokes must be driving your cruisers like race cars if that's possible, with my 5 speed I use the compression of the engine and change down accordingly, never felt my brakes were underperforming, even locked up rear wheels a few times (dry & wet ) conditions from changing down and braking to pull up sooner than expected.
 
Yes. Direct bolt in.
You can have multi way for extension.
weld it or machine an extension rod to the pedal.

THX, I'll try to get a used booster. There are many 80s that are being torn down here ...

You blokes must be driving your cruisers like race cars if that's possible, with my 5 speed I use the compression of the engine and change down accordingly, never felt my brakes were underperforming, even locked up rear wheels a few times (dry & wet ) conditions from changing down and braking to pull up sooner than expected.

Shifting down works fine, same as the engine brake for normal driving. But on the highway doing 110km/h you wanna have a brake that brakes strong - same when driving in the city. You never know what stupid thing the others might do ;)
For me it work OK know, but more brake power is a safety feature :)
 
I have the smaller diffs :-(

if you have the front 8" HP .. and smaller brakes ( for 15" wheels ) I wonder if like in 80 series it's possible to upgrade those to the late ones ( in 80 series ) with the 16" wheels .. ?
 
if you have the front 8" HP .. and smaller brakes ( for 15" wheels ) I wonder if like in 80 series it's possible to upgrade those to the late ones ( in 80 series ) with the 16" wheels .. ?

As far as I know no, because I have the small "ball" for the steering knuckle ... like frim the LJ70's :-(

What I'm looking for now is a quik solution that's not that money and time intensive. I have way to much to do on the Toyo and not enought time. We need to keep it roling because we want to go camping when we feel like it ...

Dreamsolution would be a 9,5" axle with 16" brakes from the 80 series, together with a conversion to diskbrakes in the rear. I then would try to fit a 80 series wide axle in the front so I don't need the 30mm spacers for the rims anymore, dito for the back :)
 
Well - I changed the brakefluid, installed better brake pads, changed the hoses for steel ones ( stahlflex ). Still need to change one callipar. What other things do I need to check ?
Running bigger tires doesn't help, same as the arround 3 - 3,3t travel weight ;)



For what do I need that proportioning valve ? Or is that a replacement for the load/brake system in the reat ?
Since the FJCruiser BMC is much larger, the proportioning valve was used to regulate the amount of braking authority going to the front disk and rear drums.
 
a twin diaphragm 80 series booster makes a significant upgrade to 70 series brakes if you can source one in Germany, I went down a slightly different route and put a second remote 9" booster (PBR VH40) on my front brake circuit it increases the clamping pressure on the front callipers up to 4x so my truck pulls up effortlessly with little pressure on the brake pedal it has made a massive difference to my trucks stopping power

booster.jpg
 
@ Silver Star, THX - I gues that the Booster from the FJ then only has one Qutput that then normaly goes to the ABS Block ?

@ Sadan, that would also work great - but our TÜV would then not permit me to drive on the road unles I make an expensive test. The 80series booster won't be noticed ;)
 
if you have the front 8" HP .. and smaller brakes ( for 15" wheels ) I wonder if like in 80 series it's possible to upgrade those to the late ones ( in 80 series ) with the 16" wheels .. ?

This idea has been in my list. Unfortunately, not workable.
 
You blokes must be driving your cruisers like race cars if that's possible, with my 5 speed I use the compression of the engine and change down accordingly, never felt my brakes were underperforming, even locked up rear wheels a few times (dry & wet ) conditions from changing down and braking to pull up sooner than expected.
I never found downshifting a viable option when some idiot pulls out in front of you. I can now lock all four tires if necessary which was never an option prior to the BMC change. My BJ74 will be the next Cruiser to get the brake modification.
 
bastian .... check if your brake proportion valve is adjustet correctly, my bj75 was suddenly braking extremely well, just because some leaf in the rear springs had broken, causing the rear end of the car to lower for perhaps 2-3 cm ..... then the car thought i had 300kg of extra load in the back, but after replacing the rear springs with brand new ones, it brakes normally again, because the rear of the car is back to normal........ and... if you mount stronger springs, that perhaps lifts the car a little, you will have to adjust the valve again..... just my experince.... the rear drum brakes are very power full on the 75 series landcruiser, and very important that they work just right...... togheter with the valve... ;)
 
You blokes must be driving your cruisers like race cars if that's possible, with my 5 speed I use the compression of the engine and change down accordingly, never felt my brakes were underperforming, even locked up rear wheels a few times (dry & wet ) conditions from changing down and braking to pull up sooner than expected.


I do drive mine pretty hard offroad, reguarly hitting 70-100km/h offroad then braking heavily, pads only last me about 5000km. Onroad I can lock up my 35''s. Have a search a few threads on brake upgrades. Currently I run 80 series booster, late 75 series calipers (larger pistons) and a larger bore M/C, good strong consistent brakes. I had to fit a vacuum reservoir as I found repeated braking I was loosing vacuum.
 

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