I was driving my '77 FJ40 Down the highway today and everything was fine like always and then it started sputtering n hesitating when I stepped on the gas. I didn't have my usual power. It even kinda soused sick. It would take a bit to build up enough RPM to shift gears. I drove it home and I could get up to highway speeds but it would lose power and sputter going up hills. I would have to shift down to second. Never had to do that before. I have a 2F motor. My buddy thinks it's the fuel filter any suggestions?
Fuel issues? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cruisersnharleys
- Start date
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Sounds like it's time to change your fuel filter.
It could be a thousand things. Fuel air and spark are your 3 amigos. Check all three.
Restriction in fuel feed. I had this happen with a flake of something in the line before the filter that gave me a dead pedal as the float bowl emptied and not enough fuel feeding in to keep up with demand. Blew air through the line between the filter and the tank to clear it.
Find an empty street with a safe place to pull over. Drive the truck accelerating aggressively and staying in second, keeping RPMs up when vehicle begins to stutter and die, push in the clutch, shut off the engine and pull over. Pop the hood and check the fuel level in the carb sight glass. If you don't see any fuel, it is a fuel feed issue. If it is full, look for blockage in the carb jets.
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Find an empty street with a safe place to pull over. Drive the truck accelerating aggressively and staying in second, keeping RPMs up when vehicle begins to stutter and die, push in the clutch, shut off the engine and pull over. Pop the hood and check the fuel level in the carb sight glass. If you don't see any fuel, it is a fuel feed issue. If it is full, look for blockage in the carb jets.
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Been randomly experiencing same issue. 2F, 2 filters, mechanical pump. I use 93oct, and have an A/M plastic TPI tank. Recently switched fuel caps to get correct sealing cap - cap didn't make a difference.
Checked & changed the fuel filter(s), going to check the pickup line in tank (might have a filter sock) also.
Was curious if over-filling tank might cause the return head pressure to be an issue.
Checked & changed the fuel filter(s), going to check the pickup line in tank (might have a filter sock) also.
Was curious if over-filling tank might cause the return head pressure to be an issue.
- Thread starter
- #6
I'm hoping that's all it is. Just wondering if napa or lordco would carry the fuel filter I need or if I should go to toyota and get one.
- Thread starter
- #7
The thing is my cruiser has been running great for 3 yrs other then my fuel gauge acting up. Well I will try and find a fuel filter and change it out this morning and hopefully that will do it. Keep ya posted
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
when have you cleaned and adjusted your points? when were they last changed ?
- Thread starter
- #9
Well first of all I will admit I'm no mechanic but willing to learn that's for sure. I just replace the fuel filter and still having issues. So correct me if I'm wrong, points, meaning my spark plugs?
See if this link works for you. It'll explain the basics of the ignition system.
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok thank you. A guy at lordco was saying that sounds like it could be my fuel pump. But they don't sell the mechanical pumps anymore. He said they have been discontinued and that I would have to go to an electric which kind of freaks me out because I have a s***ty wiring setup. So maybe I should change the plugs and clean the points first?
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Cleaning the points is not all that bad... However... It is helpful to see the procedure ... Do you have a FSM?
Edit: I think I had seen it there
Also its good to have a FSM because once it is cleaned you will need to check and adjust the gap
I believe there was a thread at one time ...
Edit: I think I had seen it there
Also its good to have a FSM because once it is cleaned you will need to check and adjust the gap
I believe there was a thread at one time ...
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- Thread starter
- #13
What's an FSM?
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Factory Service Manual
I take it that that's a no LOL
Here is a PDF ... Download the 1975 2F engine FSM here>>> https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/40-50-60-and-80-series-fsm-for-a-hell-of-a-price.610994/
I take it that that's a no LOL
Here is a PDF ... Download the 1975 2F engine FSM here>>> https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/40-50-60-and-80-series-fsm-for-a-hell-of-a-price.610994/
- Thread starter
- #15
Actually yes lol I have a manual lol
- Thread starter
- #16
I was just reading the manual and it makes sense. I'm just wondering if it wouldn't be easier to simply replace the distributor, cables and plugs?
- Thread starter
- #17
By the way, I really appreciate all the info.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
You wouldn't replace the distributer ... You'd replace the cap, rotor, points, condensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs
Take a few pics with the cell phone ... And label wires and such so you don't have to write back that you can't recall what order things go back lol
Take a few pics with the cell phone ... And label wires and such so you don't have to write back that you can't recall what order things go back lol
Go to Advance Auto. Get their Dorman Glass fuel filter and a couple of spare elements. Cheap. You can see when the filter starts to get plugged. Easy enough to disconnect and pop in a fresh element if it gets plugged(then clean out the old one to save for later)
If the mesh is not fine enough for you,(I think it is 40) you can get quality brass mesh from McMaster car for small $(maybe 60 mesh?) if you can't find it I can send you a small 4"X4" piece that you can cut to fit.(that size should make 2)
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mech pumps ARE still available from Toyota--contact Beno-they are not the aftermarket junk--but OEM(you can rebuild them--if you ever need to)
The FSM(factory service manual) has the replacement procedure.
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