- Thread starter
- #21
I've now ordered all the engine bits. By the time it's said and done, I'll have about 1k in the motor - and it will be new (including new lifters since I suspect the old ones were collapsed).
Builds Shipwreck (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter SuperBuickGuy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
no pictures, but the crank in the newest 350 is garbage... no worries, I have the other crank - and I pulled the mains and the rear most cap off - and it's fine... not great, but fine. were this a top-drawer build, I'd have it, at minimum, polished.... but I can't catch a nail and there's no real ridge between the rods... however, I need to press new cam bearings in the motor. I also got a ton of casting sand out - so I'm going to pay to check for cracks and for flatness before I put this one together.
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- #23
So the crank is absolutely toast in the newest block, as are the cam bearings... no biggie because I have more cranks (it doesn't make me cranky, dammit!).
and the rest of the rotating assembly
I'll take the block down tomorrow for a thorough cleaning, new cam bearings, and freeze plugs.... given the amount of casting sand that came out of this block, I think a thorough cleaning will save me some cooling grief later.
and the rest of the rotating assembly
I'll take the block down tomorrow for a thorough cleaning, new cam bearings, and freeze plugs.... given the amount of casting sand that came out of this block, I think a thorough cleaning will save me some cooling grief later.
Interesting... and entertaining! Subscribed
- Thread starter
- #25
Progress update:
new to me front axle which still has its bits inside (as opposed to the one that came with the rig that was missing bits)
the transfer case will not go in through the top...
that block of wood is a new way of mounting motors (hehe)
the trans pan is flat to the frame, the engine is at 7* and the transfer case is just below the frame (failure)....
That means I might be cutting the floor to move it up... though I need to set the bottom link suspension brackets to be sure... I might make a skid plate or skid plate mount that also holds the suspension parts....
with headers... or better, did you know that S-10 conversion headers will work pretty slick for this project?
and with the steering box sitting about where it goes
so I measured a tentative rear driveshaft... 18".... that is too short, I'm going with a 38" or 40" tire - so I can move the axle back 3 1/2" to give me a 24" (on an angle) driveshaft... which is better. I guess the thing this really determined is a gear splitter (which is 7" longer) is a bad idea and I need to go with the Atlas case (which is more expensive)... however, if I lower the motor, things could be better.... I dunno, will have to give this some thought
new to me front axle which still has its bits inside (as opposed to the one that came with the rig that was missing bits)
the transfer case will not go in through the top...
that block of wood is a new way of mounting motors (hehe)
the trans pan is flat to the frame, the engine is at 7* and the transfer case is just below the frame (failure)....
That means I might be cutting the floor to move it up... though I need to set the bottom link suspension brackets to be sure... I might make a skid plate or skid plate mount that also holds the suspension parts....
with headers... or better, did you know that S-10 conversion headers will work pretty slick for this project?
and with the steering box sitting about where it goes
so I measured a tentative rear driveshaft... 18".... that is too short, I'm going with a 38" or 40" tire - so I can move the axle back 3 1/2" to give me a 24" (on an angle) driveshaft... which is better. I guess the thing this really determined is a gear splitter (which is 7" longer) is a bad idea and I need to go with the Atlas case (which is more expensive)... however, if I lower the motor, things could be better.... I dunno, will have to give this some thought
- Thread starter
- #26
so did a bit more tonight
shock mounts need to go...
so I can set the steering box in place... ironically, it's the wooden motor mount that's now in the way.. but to fix that I need to set the motor
and I am using the radiator from the Studebaker.... it kept the 500 caddy cool, so it should be fine for this.
shock mounts need to go...
so I can set the steering box in place... ironically, it's the wooden motor mount that's now in the way.. but to fix that I need to set the motor
and I am using the radiator from the Studebaker.... it kept the 500 caddy cool, so it should be fine for this.
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- #27
I dropped it down about 2", but now it hangs at least 6" below the frame. Maybe clocking it would be the right option. Before I do that; I'm going to get the axles where they belong and visualize the links.... maybe the right thing to do would be attach the lower arms to the back of the skid plate (and front) if that works, then the case can stay this low.
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- #28
N4C (not '40 content).... but it is related because the heads on my Corvette are the Vortec heads that are going on this '40 build
because I simply must test the stock rod bolts... I'll add this to my Corvette on Sunday
the first, and most important test of aluminum heads is the sniff test. For those of you who don't have a bloodhound, I'm not sure how you adequately perform this
these things are amazing, for less than $600 delivered - notice, it's also drilled for either the Vortec or the old-style intake
for those who don't, I suggest shop slippers
the important red-filter test
These things are pretty nice. They have cheap springs on them, they aren't blended at all and there is a bit of casting flash - they aren't machined at all except what is required - which actually tells a good story about their casting process.... good grief, these things are good castings (no big divots anywhere or poor mold prep), 2.05 intake, heads. They use the vortec design, you can get with angle or straight plug, and have old-school valve cover bolt pattern (which is cool since I have finned valve covers I want to put on my C3). I'm really impressed. $579 on ebay.
I may, actually, pull the motor and put ARP rod bolts on the bottom end... naw. I just have to be careful and keep my 5500 rev limiter firmly in place.
because I simply must test the stock rod bolts... I'll add this to my Corvette on Sunday
the first, and most important test of aluminum heads is the sniff test. For those of you who don't have a bloodhound, I'm not sure how you adequately perform this
these things are amazing, for less than $600 delivered - notice, it's also drilled for either the Vortec or the old-style intake
for those who don't, I suggest shop slippers
the important red-filter test
These things are pretty nice. They have cheap springs on them, they aren't blended at all and there is a bit of casting flash - they aren't machined at all except what is required - which actually tells a good story about their casting process.... good grief, these things are good castings (no big divots anywhere or poor mold prep), 2.05 intake, heads. They use the vortec design, you can get with angle or straight plug, and have old-school valve cover bolt pattern (which is cool since I have finned valve covers I want to put on my C3). I'm really impressed. $579 on ebay.
I may, actually, pull the motor and put ARP rod bolts on the bottom end... naw. I just have to be careful and keep my 5500 rev limiter firmly in place.
Wow, that seems like a great deal. I will have to remember that...
- Thread starter
- #30
too bad they're way too big for the LC motor - 190 cfm, 2.05 valves... port velocity at idle to 2500 would really suffer on these heads.... plus, at $600 they may look quality, but in experience not so much
Well keep me posted. My 350 has quite a bit of cam and aftermarket TBI. It really doesn't "come alive" until 2500 rpm anyway...
- Thread starter
- #32
and for those who wonder why I'm not faster with my builds... I get interrupted with silly things like this
the problem
The solution
I really need to get something better than slicks on my bobcat... it's still not home, it got too dark and it slid off another hill on the way back to the garage... I left it in the woods overnight to consider its sins.
the problem
The solution
I really need to get something better than slicks on my bobcat... it's still not home, it got too dark and it slid off another hill on the way back to the garage... I left it in the woods overnight to consider its sins.
- Thread starter
- #33
this am was the last swap meet of the season (at least, the last one I go to)... so I got started late swapping the heads, and got waylaid by a friend who needed a few parts fabricated
and the heads torqued down
and intake sitting on it to keep the crap out
and the heads torqued down
and intake sitting on it to keep the crap out
- Thread starter
- #34
Last post about Corvette work - I'm only posting because it completes the thought about what I think of these heads
I did get a bit more done tonight, but I need to order the right intake gaskets... so it takes a couple more days, it's not suppose to be Corvette weather until July 5th....
cute thing, the stock gaskets don't fit because the alignment holes are a bit off
if I had an old-style intake, these gaskets would work
it is cool that they made them adaptable to either centerbolt heads or parameter bolt; and also, Vortec intakes....
and no, they are not going to stay red
'40 Content coming next.... though it make be awhile before I get back to it.
I did get a bit more done tonight, but I need to order the right intake gaskets... so it takes a couple more days, it's not suppose to be Corvette weather until July 5th....
cute thing, the stock gaskets don't fit because the alignment holes are a bit off
if I had an old-style intake, these gaskets would work
it is cool that they made them adaptable to either centerbolt heads or parameter bolt; and also, Vortec intakes....
and no, they are not going to stay red
'40 Content coming next.... though it make be awhile before I get back to it.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I just throwing this out there. Have you considered about an 1 or 1 1/2" body lift so you can raise the t/case up a litte. I just went thru this w/a j**p yj, stk 4.0, AX15, 241/dana300 doubler T/case, sprung under. We moved the engine forward & up an inch & the rearend went back 2 1/2". We tilted the engine & driveline angle alittle more than stk, & clocked the 300 so it's flat & upside down. It has a short & steep angle double cardon D/S in the rear, but it works.
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- #36
a breath of fresh air thank you.... on pirate I got into a huge argument over my plans on keeping a short wheelbase. to the point that this morning I basically told them **off. You'd think I killed Santa Claus by beating him with the Easter bunny when I said my wb would be 96" - the horrors of that suggestion... omg.
I think mine will be close to that. I got talked out of a Dana 300 so I went with a NP205/4L60e (currently turbo 350 which bolts up with the same spline/pattern as the 700r4/4L60e). I'm moving the engine forward 2" and using electric fans and an oil cooler with an electric fan to keep engine temps down. I plan on clocking the NP 205 flat like you did.... you confirmed my suspicion that a double CV and the 10/12* angles on a 24" rear driveshaft will be fine. It will be an interesting driveshaft because it will need to be capable of 16" compressed length to 29" full drop length...
If I can, there's a step between the back and the front floorboards - I'll make the trans tunnel the same height as rear floor... but I think then my driveshaft angles will be too steep.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Like I said we tilted the driveline from a stk approx 5* angle to about 8* and rotated the pinion up & adapted a higher fill plug so the pinion bearings wouldn't starve for oil. We could only move the rearend back a couple of inches because of the gas tank, which was dented/altered too for clearance. Being sprung under our rearend droop is not as much as your going to see.
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I'll get out to mine and see what mine is for angle. I have an 18" rear dive shaft. it's set up similar to to yours and pb4ugo's. I have a 96-98" wheel base IIRC. I used a 4L60E and a dodge NP208 tcase to a 14 bolt. so a centered rear set up. I have tons of flex! not sure of the #'s, but SOA set up with longer springs.
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- #39
progress?
off the Corvette and cleaned for paint.
primered
I figure since all of my Land Cruisers have come in tan or blue, I might as well nod to those colors on this one (the truck is going to be a burnt orange with dark grey top and accents)
off the Corvette and cleaned for paint.
primered
I figure since all of my Land Cruisers have come in tan or blue, I might as well nod to those colors on this one (the truck is going to be a burnt orange with dark grey top and accents)
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- Thread starter
- #40
to remind, these are the joints...
an axle and truss (not sure I'm using this one, it's early bronco)
I think the motor is moving 2" forward from here...
this is what it needs to be more capable than... kind of the back story behind this build is this. We have several trails that start with a rock pile that the forest service or DNR put up to keep vehicles out. Shortly after that rock pile, there are narrow (I will get a picture of one of these on the next mission) places where you have maybe 6-7' of what's left of the road (river erosion), a steep bank on either side then a wash out or two. The rig needs to be able to haul a driver, a navigator, and at least 3 or 4 people with their gear and the driver/navigator gear. That works out to a 40# back pack each plus normal recovery gear. I know I get get a narrow vehicle through because we've done this with YJs and earlier Jeeps. But the Jeeps don't have the number of passenger space as the '40.... anyway, those trails are 60 miles from my house - and go hundreds of miles into the woods...
My H3 works okay for this task, but it'd be a lot better if it were shorter and narrower - but didn't lose the capacity, reliabilty, or comfort
this vehicle is destined to replace the H3...
anyway, back to the build
here's the motor color... normally I paint them after, but the motor is so clean right now, that the paint will adhere better if I paint it now
and the cam and rest of the parts... figure next week I'll start screwing this together.
an axle and truss (not sure I'm using this one, it's early bronco)
I think the motor is moving 2" forward from here...
this is what it needs to be more capable than... kind of the back story behind this build is this. We have several trails that start with a rock pile that the forest service or DNR put up to keep vehicles out. Shortly after that rock pile, there are narrow (I will get a picture of one of these on the next mission) places where you have maybe 6-7' of what's left of the road (river erosion), a steep bank on either side then a wash out or two. The rig needs to be able to haul a driver, a navigator, and at least 3 or 4 people with their gear and the driver/navigator gear. That works out to a 40# back pack each plus normal recovery gear. I know I get get a narrow vehicle through because we've done this with YJs and earlier Jeeps. But the Jeeps don't have the number of passenger space as the '40.... anyway, those trails are 60 miles from my house - and go hundreds of miles into the woods...
My H3 works okay for this task, but it'd be a lot better if it were shorter and narrower - but didn't lose the capacity, reliabilty, or comfort
this vehicle is destined to replace the H3...
anyway, back to the build
here's the motor color... normally I paint them after, but the motor is so clean right now, that the paint will adhere better if I paint it now
and the cam and rest of the parts... figure next week I'll start screwing this together.
