Transmission install fj40. 1980. Planned disaster (1 Viewer)

[mydogpea]

Dude, pull the engine out. If you have an engine hoist...use it!
Disconnect alt. wires, starter wires, ground strap at starter, heater hoses, fuel line from fuel pump to tank, gas pedal cable to carb, exhaust pipe, oil & temp sender wires, headlight bib, radiator. I think that's it, get your hoist set up, undo the four mounting bolts and let the hoist do the rest.
Once you get the engine out, you will kick yourself when you see how fast & easy it was to marry the two together.

 

[mydogpea]

All the advice you're getting is good, sound advice. Take your pick. Don't give up, you'll get'er.

 

[78fj40mg]

I just did a reseal on my tranny and TC, this is what I used to remove it and I'll be using it to reinstall it.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QG49E/?tag=ihco-20

I'm getting ready to reinstall the tranny/TC, what I'm planning is to lube the input shaft nose and the pilot bearing and the keying rods on the bell housing with a very thin layer of grease. The trans jack plate is adjustable so you can dial in the correct position prior to pushing the tranny into position. I have the E-brake disconnected from the TC to make the process easier. It's a good idea to have a helper when pushing the tranny in place in my case my wife has volunteered to help, so we'll see how it goes next week.

 

[mydogpea]

I just did a reseal on my tranny and TC, this is what I used to remove it and I'll be using it to reinstall it.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C4QG49E/?tag=ihco-20

I'm getting ready to reinstall the tranny/TC, what I'm planning is to lube the input shaft nose and the pilot bearing and the keying rods on the bell housing with a very thin layer of grease. The trans jack plate is adjustable so you can dial in the correct position prior to pushing the tranny into position. I have the E-brake disconnected from the TC to make the process easier. It's a good idea to have a helper when pushing the tranny in place in my case my wife has volunteered to help, so we'll see how it goes next week.

That jack looks tall, is your rig on a lift?

 

[Pin_Head]

I have done a lot of these and there are a lot of ways to do it. They all work, but some are easier than others. I like to drop the rear end of the motor by removing the motor mounts and put the back of the engine on a stand or block. I ratchet strap the tranny to my floor jack which allows it to wobble around and then get the splines of the tranny shaft engaged in to the disk hub. Then I have someone step on the clutch and then I wiggle the nose of input shaft until it slides all the way in. You need to have the face of the tranny square with the bellhousing face to do it right. If you can't eyeball it well, then get a couple of 12mm bolts about 4 inches long and cut off the heads, install in the bellhousing and use them as guides. The plastic pilot shafts that come with the clutch kit to align the disk with the pilot bearing aren't that accurate. If you are doing this job alone and don't have anyone to step on the clutch pedal, then loosen the pressure plate bolts just enough to allow the disk to slide a bit.

 

[78fj40mg]

That jack looks tall, is your rig on a lift?

Yup I have one Xmas present.

 

[eaj71]

Thanks for all the encouragement

I got this beast back up

It appears in alignment as I can use 4 long bolts to hold it place

But perhaps it is not seating into the pilot bearing. I did seat it before hand. And it was a smooth fit. Just barely snug

Does it need to be walked in with the bolts. Or just keep shaking and shimmying this to find home

I'm about 3/4 inch from the bell housing


Thanks
Eaj71



...via IH8MUD app

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

do NOT squish it in with bolt torque; keep wiggling it, if you can have someone twist the output shaft back and fourth a couple of degrees as you wiggle and push, it will go in. I have had to drop and re-try a couple times once. loosened and reset the clutch center before the second attempt. cannot stress enough how much an extra set of hands at the very least will help and I have done these myself most of the time. heck the final fit is a pain with the whole works on the bench(engine too)...

 

[eaj71]

Thanks !!


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Pin_Head]

Step on the clutch pedal and it will slide right in with a little wiggling.

Or if you don't have anyone to step on the clutch pedal, loosen the pressure plate bolts so the disk can slide.

 

[shelfboy1]

as said you have to lower the rear of the engine to slide it in there i have done this 30 or 40 times and never had these problems ,using the search function would have avoided all your problems .

 

[eaj71]

I am sure by now everyting has been done or tried.
what is the point of the community if all it is is search old posts.

maybe someone has a new spin, mother necessity creates some innovative solutions.

 

[eaj71]

I have done a lot of these and there are a lot of ways to do it. They all work, but some are easier than others. I like to drop the rear end of the motor by removing the motor mounts and put the back of the engine on a stand or block. I ratchet strap the tranny to my floor jack which allows it to wobble around and then get the splines of the tranny shaft engaged in to the disk hub. Then I have someone step on the clutch and then I wiggle the nose of input shaft until it slides all the way in. You need to have the face of the tranny square with the bellhousing face to do it right. If you can't eyeball it well, then get a couple of 12mm bolts about 4 inches long and cut off the heads, install in the bellhousing and use them as guides. The plastic pilot shafts that come with the clutch kit to align the disk with the pilot bearing aren't that accurate. If you are doing this job alone and don't have anyone to step on the clutch pedal, then loosen the pressure plate bolts just enough to allow the disk to slide a bit.

Pinhead. Is it a bear to drop the rear of the engine. Never done that before.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Pull the e-brake off if it's still on. Loosen, but don't disconnect the rear motor mounts. Pull the front motor mounts and jack up the front of the engine as far as it will go. It will hit on the firewall eventually. This should give you enough clearance at the cross member. 7 hours is tough. Here's a moral support pic:

 

[Pin_Head]

Pinhead. Is it a bear to drop the rear of the engine. Never done that before.

Compared to what? Not getting your transmission in?

Put a jack under the bellhousing, remove the two bolts through the mounts, remove the bolts holding the brackets to the bellhousing and you are done. What is hard about that?

You can also do it the way Eddie said by loosening the rear bolts, removing the fronts and jacking up the front.

Your other option is to remove the entire engine.

Your pick.

 

[watrob]

Its a pain of a job but it could be worse, when I mounted my 5 speed & bell housing to the 12Ht, sat back sighed when finished, then realised I forgot the clutch fork, I nearly cried.

 

[eaj71]

Ohhhh man.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[watrob]

Did you test the spigot bearing on the end of the transmission shaft first? I had to buff the transmission shaft so it would slide on easy as mine did not fit when I first tested it, I known you have it already installed the bearing into the main, do you have a spare one to test on the transmission shaft?

I known hindsight is a wonderful thing but you should use a centring shaft (there plastic and most times they come with the clutch kits) so your clutch plate lines up with the spigot bearing.

 

[B y r o n]

I know I'm a little late to the party but if you had one of the adjustable angle slings it would also help.

I just dropped this in this morning for the first test fit. Cranking the red handle changes the balance point and allows you to angle the transmission or engine to whatever angle you need. I also had a transmission jack under the car to help with the final drive home.

 

[Living in the Past]

I know I'm a little late to the party but if you had one of the adjustable angle slings it would also help.

View attachment 946068

I just dropped this in this morning for the first test fit. Cranking the red handle changes the balance point and allows you to angle the transmission or engine to whatever angle you need. I also had a transmission jack under the car to help with the final drive home.

After the 78 model the large transmission opening was gone. The transmission hump was now part of the tub with inspection cover just larger than the area shifter are in. Plus offset to the right side. Not as easy option. On the 78 and earlier it can be done with the top on by rigging a beam between the doors. But it also requires dealing with the heater, front seats and gas tank.

He is working with a 1980. That large opening isn't there.