Getting it road worthy. Whats wrong with the carb. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LAgallegos
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #102
So I carb cleaned everything, inspected the float and all that and it looked fine. blew out the return line, etc. Put it back together and tried starting it. NO MORE FAUCET FUEL. hallelujah. it actually idled with no choke. BUT, bowl still was over flowing, it was pouring out of the arm cover (1). So I guess something isn't fine with the float. So I guess I'll take it off again, and see what I'm missing... Any other thoughts?
Last edited:
Nice, Gallego. I count that as some good progress, but sounds like still another thing to sort out...good job!
Is that needle valve assembly new - in other words, did you install it from the rebuild kit after doing the dip?
or is it the old needle valve assembly and if it is the old one, did you remove it when you did the Berryman dip?
When you say that you "inspected the float and all that", did you take out the needle valve assembly and:
1) make sure all the parts that make up the needle valve assembly are present and accounted for
2) reassemble the needle valve assembly parts correctly
Also, which kind of float is in the carb right now
1) hard foam-like plastic
2) hollow plastic
3) metal
Is that needle valve assembly new - in other words, did you install it from the rebuild kit after doing the dip?
or is it the old needle valve assembly and if it is the old one, did you remove it when you did the Berryman dip?
When you say that you "inspected the float and all that", did you take out the needle valve assembly and:
1) make sure all the parts that make up the needle valve assembly are present and accounted for
2) reassemble the needle valve assembly parts correctly
Also, which kind of float is in the carb right now
1) hard foam-like plastic
2) hollow plastic
3) metal
The return line has nothing to do with it. It is either a bad/sticking float or a bad dirty needle valve that won't shut off. There may be dirt on the seat. You can test it by blowing in the fuel inlet and raising the float manually.
- Thread starter
- #107
But I have an interesting dilemma, When I took apart the carb and rebuilt it, The pointy edge that looks like an arrow which the blue arrow is pointing at that is facing Inward, was actually flipped around and thats what the float made contact with(so thats how I rebuilt it). Now that I am studying this handy picture you provided it should face the other way.... Which on is correct?!
You see, the tab on the float (that's the tab you must set to spec in order to make sure that the float only allows the fuel to fill the fuel bowl 1/2 way) pushes that pin (the one that installed backwards - purple arrow), which pushes the spring, which pushes the needle (when installed the way it is shown in the picture, not the way you presumably had it installed) to seal around the housing...stopping the fuel from flowing by...
EDIT: you can see how the needle assembly (labeled #9) does this in the image on post #92 in this thread (the image of the cross section of the carb)
Make sense?
EDIT: you can see how the needle assembly (labeled #9) does this in the image on post #92 in this thread (the image of the cross section of the carb)
Make sense?
- Thread starter
- #110
Yes sir!
Okay so I plugged it up. At first, it didn't work, it was still over flowing... But then i realized I hadn't plugged up the idle solenoid, and one of the pipes(one thats hooked to the primary choke). I threw those back on and tried it again. Well it seemed to not leak that time. I'm confused because i didn't think those things would affect it. But maybe I'm wrong? or maybe its a miracle??
Well while running it has a lot of WHITE smoke. Remind me what that means... burning gas right?
I messed a little with mixture and idle speed. but not too much.
Okay so I plugged it up. At first, it didn't work, it was still over flowing... But then i realized I hadn't plugged up the idle solenoid, and one of the pipes(one thats hooked to the primary choke). I threw those back on and tried it again. Well it seemed to not leak that time. I'm confused because i didn't think those things would affect it. But maybe I'm wrong? or maybe its a miracle??
Well while running it has a lot of WHITE smoke. Remind me what that means... burning gas right?
I messed a little with mixture and idle speed. but not too much.
So does the fuel fill the fuel bowl 1/2 way up the viewing glass now?
No more overflowing?
Yes, the idle solenoid (aka fuel cut solenoid) might affect the system is left unplugged...given that the idle screws are probably not set properly.
White smoke is most likely due to too much fuel...solved by doing a 'tune-up' (setting timing and carb screws)...
White smoke is most likely due to too much fuel...solved by doing a 'tune-up' (setting timing and carb screws)...
So now, if there is no more overflowing and the fuel is only filling 1/2 way up the sight glass of the fuel bowl, then it's time to set the idle mixture and idle speed and fast idle screws.
Have you confirmed that the base timing is set at 7* BTDC (7 degrees before top dead center)?
If not, the Emissions FSM has instructions on how to do that.
But I would first set the idles screws on the carb, then go back and check timing and then redo carb settings if necessary.
Here are instructions on how to do 'lean drop' adjustment on the carb:
Have you confirmed that the base timing is set at 7* BTDC (7 degrees before top dead center)?
If not, the Emissions FSM has instructions on how to do that.
But I would first set the idles screws on the carb, then go back and check timing and then redo carb settings if necessary.
Here are instructions on how to do 'lean drop' adjustment on the carb:
Post #4 on this thread does a good job explaining the 'lean drop' method:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/real-time-help-adjusting-idle-mixture.281411/#post-4386723
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/real-time-help-adjusting-idle-mixture.281411/#post-4386723
All that running rich and cold cranking would also warrant an oil change IMHO.
Great thread full of great tech. You guys make it easy for slackers like me.
Great thread full of great tech. You guys make it easy for slackers like me.
Yeah. I like all this carburetor talk. Not enough of that. We are all capable of rebuilding and tuning our carbs. I on the other hand need time to mess with mine. I will eventually...
All that running rich and cold cranking would also warrant an oil change IMHO.
Great thread full of great tech. You guys make it easy for slackers like me.
That's a good idea on the oil change, for sure. With that needle valve open, the carb was seeing all the fuel the fuel pump could deliver...I wonder what was going on in the cylinders...although he said it was idling.
E, I'm beginning to wonder if the PO sold the Land Cruiser after having tried to rebuild the carb (and in doing so installed that needle valve backwards and failing at the rebuild) because he couldn't tune the carb correctly with that factory plug still in...
...Gallego, what was the story on the PO, the reason he sold and all...
Kline, I'm still trying to figure out the 'best' way to do the tune-up (set timing and carb).
Jim C. always cryptically says:
1) "to set timing for best performance at peak torque"
2) "for passing emissions set carb using 'lean drop' method" and "for best performance during driving set carb at max RPM/vac"
On #1, I take that to mean rotating the dizzy cap to the 1/2-way point between where you begin to 'hear' the ignition begin to miss as you rotate the dizzy CW and CCW...find those two points and then move the cap 1/2 between them and fasten the bolt that holds down the cap...since peak torque for the 2F is 1,800 RPM, I'm thinking that you do this while someone holds the accelerator torque rod steady so the engine remains at 1,800 RPMs....or maybe can do this by pulling out the choke???
on #2, if at idle, the carb is set too lean, then as you accelerate through the band and the engine demands more fuel, it won't be able to get what it needs, and as a result of that starvation, it hesitates/stumbles.
So, if I understand correctly, setting for max RPM/vac would mean doing something similar to the 'lean drop' method, where you coordinate the Idle Mixture and Idle Speed screws, repeatedly finding max RPM with the Idle mixture screw and setting idle to 690 RPMs with the Idle Speed screw, and then instead of 'dropping' the final RPMs down to 650 with the Idle Mixture screw, maybe just leave it at 690? Not sure...
Last edited:
@Slow Left I just use the Lean Drop Method. I check vacuum as I go. Idle ends up around 20-21. If it's not there I know I did something wrong.
Number 1 I'm lost on. Number 2 sorta makes sense because the higher vacuum (above 21, achieved with lean drop) would mean that it draws more fuel. I think. Best drivability. It's like turning the AC off after driving with it on for a few days. Lol
I've got timing set to the BB. Lean Drop Method tune. Bad vacuum advance on the distributor. Plenty of power and 12mpg. I've got a vac advance on order. Maybe I should call NAPA...
Cheers
Number 1 I'm lost on. Number 2 sorta makes sense because the higher vacuum (above 21, achieved with lean drop) would mean that it draws more fuel. I think. Best drivability. It's like turning the AC off after driving with it on for a few days. Lol
I've got timing set to the BB. Lean Drop Method tune. Bad vacuum advance on the distributor. Plenty of power and 12mpg. I've got a vac advance on order. Maybe I should call NAPA...
Cheers
