Builds Isuzu 4BD1T Lexus LX450 (Land Cruiser) Build (4 Viewers)

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As said above, all good things to check.

As to bleeding the cooling system, an old 60/62 trick is to place the front wheels on blocks or ramps, then place as long of a transmission type funnel you can find into the filler neck with a good seal. A section of heater hose on the funnel works well and fits into the 60 neck for a tight seal.

Open the heater and fill the funnel to the top and let it run. Hope this helps.

My rad neck and thermo housing are about the same height, and I have never had an air issue, or heating issue, so maybe the thermo is the issue? The fan clutch to me seems less likely, as the temp is high at highway speeds when air flow is best.
 
Good point on doug720 on the high heat at freeway speeds. Seems the fan clutch shouldn't be an issue. I think the plan of removing the thermostat and running it is a good one. IIRC...the thermostat in these 4bd1 helps keep them running warm enough...without it you might find it hard to get up to temp. But that's better than too hot :). You'll get it sorted no doubt!
 
Thanks Doug,

Around town no problem noted in over 30-40min driving sub 80km/hr. But as soon as I hit the hwy cruising at 2000rpm flat or slightly up hill the temp starts to climb rapidly.

My t stat housing is about 3" above the rad cap. I did put a bleeder up there the issue is getting water into it, I can let air out but getting water up there is a challenge. I will try the 60/62 trick and make some blocks to drive up. I have one of those long funnels.

When I have stopped after the hot running I have checked the rad and its supper hot so I have coolant flowing its just not cooling or the airlock is preventing it from moving any water through it. The fan even when the rad is belting heat off it is not locked and it has zero resistance. So even at hwy speeds it should be engaged if its got that kind of heat hitting it. My truck does have a lot on the front an ARB, winch an 240blitz Lightforce lights. So at hwy speeds there it a lot of air flow obstructions.

Tomorrow I will try the bleeding trick and see if I can get this air out.


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In some tight boat engine rooms we have had a bitch of a time getting the air out of cooling systems. All we can do (and quite successfully) is install one of those prestone hose flush fittings and fill with coolant. Attach hose with nozzle to prestone fitting and gently 'burp' the system with the cap off. Mostly have this issue with 6BTs- but might help you?
 
Yep I have one of those but this pocket is kind of a strange spot there is no easy path for the air to get out even with the prestone flush fitting. Its a good idea though, and I have used it a few times. May use it again depending how tonight works out.

So I have created my first Lexuzu LX390TDI SST its Part # 00000-00001 and available no where lol.






I was able to get another liter of water in then started and ran it for 45min till the t stat opened. The thermostat defiantly works when it opened the rad got hot with in 20sec so there is good flow. No further air came out after it opened. I also have no bubbles as its running and revving so I am hopeful it was just an air bubble and not a bad head/HG.

I lost the plug when i was putting it back in so just left the funnel setup and filled it with water to keep the system from sucking in air as it cools.

Hope to test drive tomorrow and see if I still have an issue.




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It's extremely hard to crack the head on a 4BD1T. I haven't managed yet and I've done some horrible things to it. Blowing the head gasket puts bubbles in the coolant and not much else. I've done that before too.

Where is your temp sender and do you trust it? About a decade ago I spent weeks chasing an overheat problem that wasn't. My gauge was lying to me.
These engines honestly do not need a fan at 100km/h. So I'd forget the fan clutch for how and look at temperature measurements and air in the system.
 
It's extremely hard to crack the head on a 4BD1T. I haven't managed yet and I've done some horrible things to it. Blowing the head gasket puts bubbles in the coolant and not much else. I've done that before too.

Where is your temp sender and do you trust it? About a decade ago I spent weeks chasing an overheat problem that wasn't. My gauge was lying to me.
These engines honestly do not need a fan at 100km/h. So I'd forget the fan clutch for how and look at temperature measurements and air in the system.


Yeah I'm fairly positive its air in the system. With the stock engine and the same bumper winch light combo it was fine up the steepest grades. This new bleeder should do the trick after a good 10min of squeezing the upper rad hose I seemed to have been able to get all the air out. I then ran it for 35-40min to get the thermostat open and no more air or bubbles came out at all after the initial bleeding. The fan is something I will look into later as I want it working for slow off road. I have a shroud 50% done for it at well.

The stock gauge sender is in the thermostat housing on the hot side. Its accurate since I tested it against a Sacanguage on my stock engine. It did indeed get hot. The area the needle got up to was the 220-230f range.



Thanks for your input, if anyone knows the limits of these its you.


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Mine runs a line from the side of the top tstat housing to a straw to the bottom of the radiator surge tank. This does a good job of purging air by itself but requires a surge tank with a pressure cap on it.
 
You really gotta stop trying to reinvent the wheel Jer hahaha

http://revlimiter.net/blog/2011/03/tool-review-spill-free-funnel/

I've got a similar setup to that from Stant for less than $30

Liisa said you ordered a case of oil filters.... she said she is holding them hostage though... what did you do?


Hey hey now I make the wheels square ;). This SST actually only cost me about $5 and works great. Its also a fantastic water launcher when you turn off the engine with the funnel full :p


Yeah I ordered 1 filter lol if I get a box for the same cost I'm cool with that. Was actually surprised to see her there the coast not work out? Did not want to ask her with everyone else around.

Hope everything is well!




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Well my advise is stop ordering parts from the gentleman you ordered that filter from haha.

Long story out here, I'm still living in Sechelt for now though and she is spending the weekends out here. Will be local again this fall though.

Hopefully the rest of the run up on the truck goes well.
 
Well my advise is stop ordering parts from the gentleman you ordered that filter from haha.

Long story out here, I'm still living in Sechelt for now though and she is spending the weekends out here. Will be local again this fall though.

Hopefully the rest of the run up on the truck goes well.



Every time I go in there I try and avoid him but thats not worked. Now that I know 90% of the brain trust has returned I will talk to her. Its been painful recently there.

Well I hope it all works out for you, that place out there was awesome. But I know what the job market is like.

Fixing to find out tonight if its fixed or not.



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Well test 3 failed, got two exits down the hwy and the temp started creeping up. I was able to catch it faster this time and turn the heat/fan on full to keep it under control. When I got to the offramp I stopped at a gas station and found the coolant overflow....overflowing. It was at the full mark about 1L below the point of purging when I left. When I stopped it was overflowing. I cracked my bleeder at the high point in the system and was greeted buy bubbling rushing air and water. Very very hot. So hot when I was trying to top it off some water spilt on the head and instantly boiled.

Im kind of at a loss it had no air in it as far as I could tell when I left. I made sure to bleed it well.

My thoughts are head/head gasket. There is a spot at the front of the engine just above the water pump its the seam where head, head gasket and block come together. There is a small 1mm section of it that seems to be leaking it was hissing tonight when I put water on it. Ill get a picture tomorrow.

I need a break for a few days from it, its really starting to stress me out.


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Head gasket took me about 8 hours total working alone over 1 weekend.

Get in and do it.
 
I may have missed it, but have you done a pressure test of the cooling system? Maybe do a cold and a hot test to see if the HG is leaking. I would hold off on changing the HG, as no bubbles.

Just checked my spare 4BD2, on it, there is no way to install the HG backwards or upside down, and assume the 4BD1 is the same. So the that narrows it down somewhat.

You said the thermo is opening, but do you think the maybe not all the way, or the flow is blocked by junk or gasket?

Bummer, but it will be fixed!
 
It really does seem to me you still have air trapped in there somewhere. If you got an air compressor available I would try finding a vacuum bleeder for the cooling system.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=681175&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

I'd loan you mine but there is a fair bit of highway driving between us at the moment.

Before you go back into tear down mode, get a pressure gauge on the system and fire it up. After putting my heater box in and refiling the hilux I had a hell of a time bleeding the system.
 
Have not pressure tested the system yet, its my next step. Need to get a tester tomorrow and give it a go.

I may even get one of those Snap-on bleeders.

Well see pressure test first.

On a side note its move s along at hey speed great. No slowing for hills or sluggishness.


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Pressure test will be a waste of time with a popped head gasket.
They only leak under combustion pressure and will hold whatever your test pressure is forever.
 
Pressure test will be a waste of time with a popped head gasket.
They only leak under combustion pressure and will hold whatever your test pressure is forever.

I had no bubbles or other signs at idle when I was running it and bleeding it the other night. I realized last night i may have done this too myself with the way I plumbed up a couple things. Firstly the coolant filter takes water post thermostat and re enters on the lower rad hose area. Basically bypassing the rad. And my circulating block heater. I tapped the feed for it i to the block drain and it re enters at the heater control valve area. What Im worried this one is doing is becoming the path of least resistance for the water pumped into the block an instead of going through the head its going through the block heater hosing. The ciculating block heaters have a check valve to prevent this but my heater is still on the garage floor i just have one 5/8" hose run for now.

Thoughts? Could I have actually caused this issue myself? Im going to plug both off tomorrow night or my days off and test.

I have a screen in the upper rad hose as well that I need to check and make sure its not already plugged.



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