I just did mine last week. Followed these instructions. ABS light came on after I bled just the front. I drove it to Midas had them bleed the whole system and light has gone away. I also did not use a vice to pull the piston but mine would compress by hand and not return so it was easy to get the clip out and then the piston pulled out straight with out much effort. The rubber gaskets were in very bad shape so that is probably why it was so easy.
Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Skidoo
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
cboyd
GOLD Star
If any one is looking for parts, I have my uninstalled '99 original master cylinder with bad accumulator still attached. The dealer could not get it unhooked from the master, but I'm sure if someone needs one bad enough, it can be managed. Likely needs the plunger rebuild done too.
Hit me up on a PM to discuss interest and pricing.
Hit me up on a PM to discuss interest and pricing.
Very useful thread. I have a 1999 LC which has the 'double-pump' problem - a second quick pump brings the pedal travel much shorter. I'm being told the only option is a new MC assembly at $1100 plus installation, but
this thread gives me hope I may be able to rebuild it. Couple of questions - what is ATRAC and how do I know if I have it? Has anyone used A1 Cardone for a REMAN cylinder.
Thanks.
this thread gives me hope I may be able to rebuild it. Couple of questions - what is ATRAC and how do I know if I have it? Has anyone used A1 Cardone for a REMAN cylinder.
Thanks.
Thanks, SmoothLC.
Bottom line is that my brake pedal travel seems to long on the first pump, but it comes up good and hard on the second pump. My local (non-dealer) mechanic says that the problem is in the Master Cylinder. I'm happy to rebuild the MC given these great instructions, but first I'd like to hear from anyone who had the same 'double-pump' problem that a rebuild fixed that problem. Anyone?
Thanks.
Mine completely failed when driving from Mass. to North Dakota last year. Cost big bucks to get fixed at the dealership in Maumee, Ohio (Nice town, I'd never been there before). This was after I'd flushed it twice; once before leaving Phoenix (got all kinds of muck out), and again in Massachusetts. I did not clean the reservoir out as was done here and I think that was my fatal error. Flushing brake fluid is critical on newer vehicles since the system "breathes" and water collects in the fluid and causes rust to form. An expensive lesson learned.
cboyd
GOLD Star
Most of the double pampers have been fixed by changing the piston seal on the plunger connected to the pedal. Search for Skidoo's instructions.
I had to demand my dealer do it when they changed out my bad accumulator. Turns out the couldn't separate the accumulator and I had to buy the whole MC. $$$
I had to demand my dealer do it when they changed out my bad accumulator. Turns out the couldn't separate the accumulator and I had to buy the whole MC. $$$
So I hate to be the dummy newbie, but people are referencing A-Trac. My 99 has the rear locker, no A-Trac. Does the above part number work with either A-Trac or the rear locker, or is there a different part number for the non-A-Trac Cruisers?
Thanks.
Resurrecting an old thread.
Just had the dreaded ABS / brake light and blaring noise come on in my 1999 LC this afternoon after spending a few days in southern Utah.
Happened to be next to an AutoZone when it happened and had them read the OBD II codes:
Reading through this thread today, it appears that @Skidoo hoped to fix "brakes dragging". It also appears that a rebuild may address "soft pedal, 2nd pump issue and sticking pedal."
The SUV is still at AutoZone so am arranging towing to my home until I can determine the best course of action.
Just had the dreaded ABS / brake light and blaring noise come on in my 1999 LC this afternoon after spending a few days in southern Utah.
Happened to be next to an AutoZone when it happened and had them read the OBD II codes:
- C1251 - Pump motor is locked.
- C1252 - Hydraulic brake booster pump motor malfunction.
- C1256 - Accumulator low pressure malfunction.
Reading through this thread today, it appears that @Skidoo hoped to fix "brakes dragging". It also appears that a rebuild may address "soft pedal, 2nd pump issue and sticking pedal."
The SUV is still at AutoZone so am arranging towing to my home until I can determine the best course of action.
bluecruiser
SILVER Star
I rebuilt to address sticking pedal, double pump symptoms. Not an issue that threw any codes. Hope you get it figured out.
The pump on my MC was screaching. No codes but I have a couple of long distance road trips with the family coming up so didnt want to get stuck out in the middle of nowhere New Mexico with no brakes.
I just bit the bullet and had a whole new MC installed at an independant Lexus repair shop. There is quite a complex bleed process after the new unit is installed. Not something I could do myself.
Pedal is now firm and the truck stops better than ever. Plus, no screaching pump!
I just bit the bullet and had a whole new MC installed at an independant Lexus repair shop. There is quite a complex bleed process after the new unit is installed. Not something I could do myself.
Pedal is now firm and the truck stops better than ever. Plus, no screaching pump!
uHu
Bridgeburner
There is no rebuild kit for the booster pump. Could be possible to change the brushes of the booster motor, if that's the problem. Don't think a dealer would do that tho'. It's a "Replace the whole MC and Booster" policy. Which is quite reassuring.
Just bought a used '99 LC with 166k miles on it. The brake booster was just "recently" changed (still verifying details) but the brake pedal is definitely sticky. I'm hoping this MC rebuild will work for mine as well. Any response on whether or not this is the right part number for the '99?
Thanks.
I've purchased the kit--everywhere I checked seemed to use the same part number, even for my '99. Timing has put this project on the burner until Christmas vacation, so the parts sit on the bench. I'll know in a few weeks. My issue however, is of the 2nd pump pressure variety.
I completed the MC rebuild this weekend and the sticky brake pedal is gone. My ABS light came on today on my way to work... but I'm guessing it's because I haven't bled the brakes as religiously as I could have. I haven't taken it in yet for a full bleed either.
Other than the ABS light - the brakes function great and I'm pretty stoked to spend the $$$ on something else on the LC.
Other than the ABS light - the brakes function great and I'm pretty stoked to spend the $$$ on something else on the LC.
I have the double pump issue. I didn't really notice how bad it was until i drove another 100. It hasn't really bothered me until recently when I was in a quick stop situation with a car full of people and gear. I'm going to buy the kit and have my mechanic change the fluid before just to make sure. I'm almost positive it's been that way since I've owned it.
Has anyone experienced a persistent ABS light after the rebuild? I had the brakes bled last week at a local shop but the ABS light still comes on within a minute or so of driving around (doesn't turn on immediately after starting the vehicle).
Does the ABS code just need to be cleared?
Thanks.
Does the ABS code just need to be cleared?
Thanks.
ABS light will clear itself if system is operating correctly.
My question is does the local shop actually know how to properly bleed this system? Vacuum pumps or one guy by himself without specialty tools really can't bleed them correctly. Read the FSM and follow the brake bleed procedure.
Hints: It is possible to do without removing the wheels but the fronts are kind of a pain. When I did mine put the front up on stands and pulled the front wheels. Had my son press the brake pedal - suggest pumping three times but keep it held down on the third. Crack the bleeder valve for about 2 seconds, immediately close, then repeat. Only takes about three / four times to reach any of the wheels but do it a couple more for good measure. Make sure you don't get too low on the reservoir when doing this and introducing air into the system.
Leaking lots of brake fluid from resivoir; very cold here (27deg) so did not really want to tinker with it yet? Any suggestions on where to check for leaks ? Seals ? Etc connectors? Will try to take pics when I get home. 95k miles 2006 lx470. Brake pedal all good. No squell. Actually got lucky with notice. We had lots of snow a few days ago and notice the fluid on the snow. 
