Fj60 diesel conversion (2 Viewers)

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Front hanger is made and welded in. The axle is within 1/64 of an inch side to side so I think that might work ;) also because of how close the shackle is going to be to the frame I notched it and boxed it to get the bolt in and out and a spot to get my bushing out. I am building a sub frame today and making my spring hang from that. Its been slow just on the aspect of figuring it out perfectly of how I want it then making it. Hopefully the other side won't be as big of a pain in the ass :hillbilly:

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Why did you make the big square notch in the frame behind the axle? Seems that's going to be a very weak point, especially with that 1200# motor you're putting in.
 
Why did you make the big square notch in the frame behind the axle? Seems that's going to be a very weak point, especially with that 1200# motor you're putting in.
For an access point to put the bushing in a spot for the bolt to go in. Its boxed with the same thickness steel and will have a secondary frame being built around it for the shackle to ride on. If anything it will be stronger then just the frame untouched
 
I don't follow, but if you say so!
You will see when I take pics after I build the rest haha I know its just feels wrong cutting the frame and I'm terrible at explaining stuff so the pics will talk for me :)
 
So I figured out my shackle angle damn near perfect I believe but I am leaving it tacked until I get some weight on it to know for sure. This is the sub frame I was talking about this is just the crude mock up for now but it is going to be skinned with 1/4 plate on the top bottom and sides all back to the frame to make it strong as hell and the reason I believe it will make up for the notched frame. And the last pic shows the reason I had to notch the frame

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Maybe the angle in the picture, but won't the shackle hit the notch on a hard bounce that flexes it outward?
 
Maybe the angle in the picture, but won't the shackle hit the notch on a hard bounce that flexes it outward?
Its just the angle of the picture. The shackle rides between the frame and the sub frame I am building. The notch is simply an access point. The bottom of it is getting boxed back in also
 
Johnny, this is my new plan of attack for the access point to the shackle pin. What are your thoughts?

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I like that much better.

Usually people drill and sleeve the frame but that's when the springs are directly underneath. Are your springs not going to be parallel?
 
My springs are parallel its just they are landing in a dumb spot. I don't know if its because of the ford location on the fixed perch or what. Is this why you didn't do shackle reversal because of the headache it is to set up?. I might go the way boots did with the f350 shackles. I did hear sky's off road sells a kit to do it but I have been yet to find it. One of the local cruiser guys just did a one ton swap with shackle reversal with the sky's kit so I an going to take pictures this afternoon and then either order the kit or copy the design
 
Boots's springs are not parallel.

I did not go shackle reversal after doing a bunch of research on suspension design theory and how shackle forward / shackle rearward designs behave differently. I prefer that my wheelbase extends on compression rather than retracts. I think it comes down to personal preference more than anything in all honesty, as some vehicles came with SR, others did not.

I used these outboarding perches from RuffStuff so I didn't have to section the frame. Since I moved my front axle forward, which brought the rear mount up the frame a bit, in addition to the mounts I have now being overall shorter than the factory ones, I think I actually lost height, which is a good thing!

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/OUTRIG-45.html

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That turned out awesome I really like your setup. And with shackle location I agree I think its all personal preference.
 
Found a kit from ruff stuff so I got all the measurements they need and ordered them. The frame is reboxed in all the way. I have also been patching in all the holes I had the cut for the 6.5 to fit. I took a break and decided to start ripping the Cummins down for the reseal and with my my judgment to pull the head and make sure everything is kosher inside and well.. This is what I found.. And this is where it sits as of now

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Here are some more pics of the motor

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Number 5 and 6 were all melted and torn up.. Not what I was hoping to find. So I guess Monday the head, rods, and crank are going to my machinist to be inspected and make sure everything is still alright with them
 
That sucks! Good call on popping the head off.
I had a cracked piston in my Mitsubishi 4d34...
Bought a used piston and rod assembly from Busby Trucks, swapped the con rod big end bearings, honed the barrel and reassembled. Working well.
Yours is in worse shape than mine though...
 

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