1Hd without Turbo..slow acceleration (2 Viewers)

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with that solid fuel inlet line the pump may be off a Toyota coaster bus.. but I still think using F-10 to kill the algae, then try fiddling with the fuel screw is the easy first option
 
It could be algae, but more likely it's a bacteria. The bacteria Cladisporium Resinai is a commen bacteria that feel itself very good in diesel with low %sulfur en high %water. I don' t want to be disrespectful but in country's like Sudan sometimes they mix water with diesel. You can kill the bacteria with methylated spirits. Flush the tank and rinse with water. New fuel. But don't run that through the pump. In the pump are a lot of rubber components that don't like alcohol.

Before you remove the pump you can try to let the pump run on a cleaner. A cleaner that you put in the tank would't do the trick. Here in Holland you can by a cleaner where you put in the in-, and outlet on the pump. The motor will run on only the cleaner. Don't know if they have that in Sudan.

I f you like I can help you with second hand parts to make it a 'T' again.
 
wow....the amount of know-how and guidance i find on this forum are astonishing....it just keeps getting better and whatever is posted is always a learning experience for me.

As u guys may have noticed, im not experienced and just learning mechanics as i go..as i did with the electrical wiring in my build thread...as i mentioned earlier, workshops here that do have proper tools are way too expensive, and the remaining ones...well...lets just say they always have pliers and Phillips screwdrivers at hand....with the occasional hammer here and there :(

this are images of one of the 'better' workshops removing my engine...look at the area where they work..and how they safeguard the parts...this is not because they have no idea...but due to how expensive quality tools are and the amount of taxs just multiplies if you have a 'clean' setup....so they try their best with what they have....


w1.jpg
w2.jpg


no disrespect @DiehSt , but you are right....plenty of 'not so known' pump stations will add the occasional barrel of water to their reservoirs to increase the amount of fuel pumped....that's if they don't play with the pump's settings etc.....it does happen, and that's why i usually try to pump gas at recognized outlets....Petronas, Oil Libya are the safest bet here...others you realize how dirty their tanks are by the way they actually fill them up....dirt all around...even plastic bags now and then dropping in....but thats Africa.

Nope, there is not a factory 1HD around. So the question is what kind of pump this is.....a 1HDT-pump without the boost compensator?

Yuup, 1HD head will bolt on a 1HZ and vice versa, but it won't work. There will be clearance issues and the 1HD pistons have the pre combustion chambers in the piston crown where as 1HZ is in the head. Gudgeon pin size is bigger in the 1HD.

Yes, probably the compensator was removed then. Funny, this reminds me of the endless discussion about the mythical factory 1HZ-T that was going on for a while here.

And you are of course correct, just changing the heads would not work. But the block is the same.

Its most likely a 1HD T ,minus the turbo.
As to the OP question regarding the removal and installation of the pump. Its not hard if you have a manual and a good set of pullers.The pump can jam itself on and be a real PITA to get off,but not complicated. If the mechanics shops are primitive ,I would be doing the job myself lest they break something.

A turbo off another vehicle might be another option.

Well....earlier i did post the number i found on the side of the pump...BUT...here, some people will pull a plate off something and stick it on a lower or less quality product to sell for a higher rate....as im no expert, and i found it this way....im currently stuck with it....maybe towards the end of this year i might find a way to change it....but currently ...no way :(

@SeaJay i found an outlet that has these two additives...one being a fuel system cleaner and the other some sort of lubricant the guy advised me to use after cleaning the system....any advice before i use them...anything specific to look for in their 'ingredients'
fuel.jpg


@DiehSt .... thank you so much for the help, not sure i can ask for that now....but would love to meet up...i might be nominated by our company to attend the IBC in Amsterdam this Sept. Will contact u in a PM if this is the case.


everyone please bare with my ignorance for a while, i will keep learning and getting better....but the lack of time, tools and resources does slow my learning curve down a bit... thanx for the help and support....and please carry on....think of it as that Bob Geldof USA to Africa aid thing back in the 80's....but instead of music.....we hear engine revs :D
 
wow....the amount of know-how and guidance i find on this forum are astonishing....it just keeps getting better and whatever is posted is always a learning experience for me.

As u guys may have noticed, im not experienced and just learning mechanics as i go..as i did with the electrical wiring in my build thread...as i mentioned earlier, workshops here that do have proper tools are way too expensive, and the remaining ones...well...lets just say they always have pliers and Phillips screwdrivers at hand....with the occasional hammer here and there :(

this are images of one of the 'better' workshops removing my engine...look at the area where they work..and how they safeguard the parts...this is not because they have no idea...but due to how expensive quality tools are and the amount of taxs just multiplies if you have a 'clean' setup....so they try their best with what they have....


View attachment 932404 View attachment 932405

no disrespect @DiehSt , but you are right....plenty of 'not so known' pump stations will add the occasional barrel of water to their reservoirs to increase the amount of fuel pumped....that's if they don't play with the pump's settings etc.....it does happen, and that's why i usually try to pump gas at recognized outlets....Petronas, Oil Libya are the safest bet here...others you realize how dirty their tanks are by the way they actually fill them up....dirt all around...even plastic bags now and then dropping in....but thats Africa.

Nope, there is not a factory 1HD around. So the question is what kind of pump this is.....a 1HDT-pump without the boost compensator?

Yuup, 1HD head will bolt on a 1HZ and vice versa, but it won't work. There will be clearance issues and the 1HD pistons have the pre combustion chambers in the piston crown where as 1HZ is in the head. Gudgeon pin size is bigger in the 1HD.

Yes, probably the compensator was removed then. Funny, this reminds me of the endless discussion about the mythical factory 1HZ-T that was going on for a while here.

And you are of course correct, just changing the heads would not work. But the block is the same.

Its most likely a 1HD T ,minus the turbo.
As to the OP question regarding the removal and installation of the pump. Its not hard if you have a manual and a good set of pullers.The pump can jam itself on and be a real PITA to get off,but not complicated. If the mechanics shops are primitive ,I would be doing the job myself lest they break something.

A turbo off another vehicle might be another option.

Well....earlier i did post the number i found on the side of the pump...BUT...here, some people will pull a plate off something and stick it on a lower or less quality product to sell for a higher rate....as im no expert, and i found it this way....im currently stuck with it....maybe towards the end of this year i might find a way to change it....but currently ...no way :(

@SeaJay i found an outlet that has these two additives...one being a fuel system cleaner and the other some sort of lubricant the guy advised me to use after cleaning the system....any advice before i use them...anything specific to look for in their 'ingredients'
View attachment 932403

@DiehSt .... thank you so much for the help, not sure i can ask for that now....but would love to meet up...i might be nominated by our company to attend the IBC in Amsterdam this Sept. Will contact u in a PM if this is the case.


everyone please bare with my ignorance for a while, i will keep learning and getting better....but the lack of time, tools and resources does slow my learning curve down a bit... thanx for the help and support....and please carry on....think of it as that Bob Geldof USA to Africa aid thing back in the 80's....but instead of music.....we hear engine revs :D
 
Mentholated spirits should help to kill the bug but I'm not sure how much you would need to add to every tank. We need to get our heads together and do some homework on what product we have local to kill this slim at our local shops. :)
 
algea can be a pita to get rid of , the whole system has to be flushed. i would think the pump would flush itself, but the two stage injectors could be plugged up now. im no mechanic but id be running a little higher diesel mix to burn it out. i run half a gallon of gas in a full tank of diesel every once in awhile, but i also run transmission oil in it for pump lube too, have for 25 years on lots of different diesels. ive also have run my 1 hdt without a turbo, with a field adjusted fuel settup to limp home , it was a complete dog . transmission took a real beating ,being i couldnt maintain t/c lockup.

i think this might work.....it does sound like a good idea...

@wrongway around ...would u add the gasoline AND the transmission oil into one tank...or let the gasoline flush first and then add the transmission to another full tank....and how much transmission oil to a full tank?

appreciate your feedback
 
i only run gas in my diesel if im going on a long trip ,so as to use it up right away. but i have already been useing half a liter of transmission oil in my gas mix's long before i do the gas thing. i add the tranny fluid every 5-7,000 km religiously. i have all the gauges to monitor everything though,it will run alittle hotter. i also run methol hydrate mix in my gas motors too, so im not that stable ,if you get my drift. sounds like you need to kill it properly ,its like bringing a knife to a gun fight. i dont think anything will clean and unplug your injectors,if its gone this far. if you cant pull them and check the spray under crack pressure,then i guess you dont have much choice.
 
by the looks of things your have a 1hd-t (head/injectors are the give away).
The injection pump on the other hand is from a 1hz. Reason I can tell is the code on the side of it.
VE6/10F. 10F is a 10mm pump which came on the 1hz. 1hz pump was swapped on.
 
Here is a couple of pics of the pumps from the Toyota Bible.. The 1HDT has a dual spring injector with a cartridge in it. These injectors have very critical settings and it is near impossible to repair and reset them without the proper Denco machines. In Australia Denco will not sell this equipment to a diesel shop unless they are an authorised Denco shop. Very different injector to 1hz or simple 2H etc.
 
@MoeGasim: I can send you a digital version of the 1HDT service manual if you like. In that bible you can see the different opening pressures of the 1HD en 1HZ injectors: 1HZ: 135-155 kgcm2 and 1HD: 132-138 stage 1 and 180-190 stage two. Also the pumps have different pressures and volumes of fuel.
I think it is a plausible explanation for the problems you have. But what wonders me is that it ran much better then it does now. So an improvement could be achieved.
 
Good point DiehSt, When I got [BeanZ 's] Dave Tay's from the USA injectors rebuilt here by Berrima Diesel I had to get the number from his injector pump as the 1HDT injectors are matched to the pump's number. I had forgotten about this.
 
by the looks of things your have a 1hd-t (head/injectors are the give away).
The injection pump on the other hand is from a 1hz. Reason I can tell is the code on the side of it.
VE6/10F. 10F is a 10mm pump which came on the 1hz. 1hz pump was swapped on.

How do you explain the 17mm connections to the injectors that the 1HZ pump did not have? Do you think the outlets of the pump were swapped?
thanks
J
 

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