Look what I found.... 1961 FJ40 FST (1 Viewer)

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thanks for that. any help from mudders (regards parts and advice) on this one is much appreciated. i have set myself quiet a challenge and am kinda fumbling along in the dark here! normally a can raid my own scrapyard (which is reasonably handy) and nut out my own conclusions but none of this stuff exists over here.
 
actually, you can use the later diaphragm, but you have to put holes in it with a punch for the bolts (newer style has j hooks that hold the halves together like the drawings above, early style has bolts like the pic). make the holes clean, otherwise they will tear and it will leak again (ask how i know :( ) no longer available new. i do have someone working on it, but we'll see...
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thanks nuclearlemon, my shorty forty sister, thats great. how available is the used stuff? i also don't have the tin cover for the diaphram. can a later one be made to fit?
 
Hi west aussie. You know that guy Bill I told you about who might have the missing transmission parts you need. He helped me with some transmission gears: 1st gear and the main long multi gear thing that is in there. Well, he can't help you with the second gear because I have that but didn't need it:
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He sent it to me along with the other gears. Good news is I was able to compare it with a newer 2nd gear from a newer three speed. And the 2nd gear is the same. FS10-33352 seems identical to 33332-61013. Which might be possible to be found in Australia. If not I could send it to you.

Nucearlemon, I can confirm that the main multi gear thing of the newer transmission is 8,5 mm longer and won't fit. Unless you have it machined very precisely. Also the first gear is wider in the later three speed (but might be usable). Reverse is also different and won't fit. Don't know about the 3rd but I my guess it the same as in the early transmission like the 2nd.

I don't know the exact year of the stick shift 3spd I have in parts.
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thank you mr hdjtachig; that is great information. i have a number of junker old stick shift 3 speeds here; dont think any are in bits as yet. still haven't pulled my own 61 box apart yet; waiting for a knowledgable mate to help me with that. have been speaking to bill. will nut all this out in time but whatever you do don't discard that second gear cog in the meantime!

do people think the later 2x4 fork assembly should be able to mate up to this earlier box in it's entirety? (if so i will still need to source this from the usa)
or do i need to repair/replace my original worn fork and run the later diaphram as described above by nuclearlemon?
is the later diaphram available new?

thank you in advance mudders. i will mention again i am out on my own on this one in stick shift only australia!
 
no, later diaphragm isn't available new either, but specter has good used
 
had another quick play couple nights ago. found an old transfer front extension housing with the 2x4 fork assembly from a later stick shift 3 speed. partially dismantled this and did some rough comparisons with my original vacuum fork assembly. they are similar and i think the later unit should be able to bolt up; certainly the bolt holes match but i only mocked it up finger tight so far. the forks themselves are 'similar' and the bar they attach to are identical in dimension. the main difference is how the fork attaches to the bar; earlier is a small nut on the end of the bar and later has a locating grub screw through the fork and threaded into the bar.

the other difference of note is later unit has the ball, spring and notches pictured below to locate the fork in either 2 or 4 position. on the earlier unit this is absent and i believe further 'upstream' in the diaphram pushrod doubling as a 4wd warning light sender. havent studyed this bit yet; but what i surmise so far is that when the original daipram was bypassed in favour of the homemade lever the means of locating the fork in either 2 or 4 position went with it and i am thinking this is what caused the excessive wear to the fork.

im still playing with all this

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and here some some pics of the stampings on my 2 transfer cases. first (from my 61 shorty) reads 3348 1F and second (from my 62 fj45 backburner project) reads 6634 2A. guessing they are a date coding but not sure how to decode them 1 being 61 and 2 being 62 is a fair assumption.

the 3rd pic (while i had this folder open) is the damage to my 62 case where it has been sitting a long time is some corrosive soil. you can see the holes eaten away but the rest is very thin, corroded and brittle.

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I like your date code assumption as well and I am wondering if the letters can be interpreted the same as on Aisan carburetors in that the letter designates the month of manufacture, maybe? Even though the month of the transfer case manufacture doesn't necessarily correspond to the vehicle's production date? For example:

Hdjtachig's transfer case has "1 D" stamped on it and his VIN is 2-FJ40-14390.

I have 2-FJ40-14948 and its transfer case is stamped "1 L."

You have 1-FJ40-10125 with a "1 F" stamped case.

So, since the 14000 VIN range was relatively early in the 1962 production year Toyota was still installing cases made in 1961?

Mostly conjecture on my part of course. But it's plausible I suppose. And fun to speculate.
 
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yea thats what i was thinking; couldnt find the carby dating thread to remember how it worked though. did a bit yesterday. at the risk of getting carried away.....!
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bit of an unorthadox style but was only going to break bolts if tried to lower the bib. with the box out there was not much holding the motor in. now i can get in there and clean the chassis and sort heaps of things under the dash, get the sump off this motor for a clean, and assemble the box and clutch on the bench. and get some heat onto the bib bolts among many others. also removed a little more non oem that has been bugging me.

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then pulled trans hump from a donor 45. its a 63/64 (chassis number is welded over) is going to do the job though. and discovered a welded manifold (chalked).

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had a quick play last night. cleaned inside the chassis rails as best i could with scrapers and compressed air. this chassis is pretty poor. it will hold together but thats about it. sometimes wonder if i'm mad for tackling this one but its still fun. anyways a decent crawl around underneath is a good reminder to keep this project within budget haha! think i am going to fabricate some mounting system to reattach the tub to the frame through the middle to preserve the straightness of this old tub. will still be ignoring the rust and doing as little damage to whats left as possible. i would never normally play with anything this rusty; only that shortys this early are never seen in australia. think i have found a loose (and surfacerusted) gear for 2nd from later box, and confident i can nut a transmission change systen of sorts to get things going. might be able to use original hi lo system and run a later stick for 2x4 and worry about delving into vacuum front drive after its a goer dont have the riginal tranny hump so nothing to damage there. next big stumbling block are the column linkages; which are siezed as one big immovable lump from top to toe and hidden behind a very attached steering wheel. still pondering this. next to do is get this out in the open for a decent pressurewash and tackle some brakes and/or wiring while i let it bake dry in the sun for a few weeks. supposed to have some useable 64 fj40 seats on the way so once i see how they fit up can plan some more tub mounting.
 
Hmmm. Sounds like it will be a real challenge to get this one driving. Even a bigger challenge for a future owner to restore this. It is in good hands: any other would probably have scrapped it. Thanks for the regular updates. Love reading this. I'm impressed with your skills: how you make something out of nearly nothing with almost zero budget:beer:
 
haha thanks; i'll claim handy mates and a decent scrapyard but not too much in the way of skills! and i actually enjoy the budget; that is a big part of the fun for me.

had another play; the nights are warming up here. dragged the oxy over and unsiezed the spare carrier, tailgate and latches. no real drama. not much solid left of the tailgate but pryed the bottom open a little and rattled, tapped, blew the inside clean. mostly i just drank beer and pondered the best way to mount this tub. nearly thew heat at the column gear block near the steer box but decided to try view an exploded diagram first; its very new to me. in the end heated the screws that hold the broken bonnet hinges to the cowl but resisted the temptation to try them yet. i really want these out cleanly. sprayed their underside again and gave remnants of the fusebox another good soak and called it a night.
 
another play. snapped last one of the bonnet hinge screws with the impact driver and cursed my impatience; should have known better. pushed shorty outside in the fading light and got rear wheels off. it was all about oxy and heating tip. made a start on rear brakes mostly heating and reheating the screws that locate the brake drum and the hard hydraulic lines. then in complete darkness a wander about using the oxy as a torch; spring hangers and many po snapped bolts in the trans cover, battery tray, drivers seat, whatever i could find. heated a few bib bolts but need to get some oem wiring out of the way to save it first. just chipping slowly away.
 
couple pics. still like this little shorty and am philosophically accepting its many faults as part of the overall story.

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WA whats the old truck in pic 1 next to the shed on the left in the back ground. Sorry mate but love your pics as it takes takes me down memory lane with all the old cars, trucks, machinery in the back ground :)
 
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thats a chysler tourer from 28/29 era cut down into a ute (buckboard). 6 cyl sidevalve; first model with hydraulic brakes i'm told. apparently belonged to a station employee in the day who had two magnificent sheep dogs who rode one each side on the running boards.
 

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