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The big pipe in the carb body spacer is for EGR inlet. Chop it off and fill the remainder with JB Weld.
Dam vacuum leak... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter csd1982
- Start date
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FishTacos
Full Globetard
That's for a tube that runs to the PCV in the side cover if I'm understanding you correctly. You want to rectify that.
Edit: maybe I misunderstood. You should listen to the reverened Dr. JimC primarily
- Thread starter
- #43
I'm Still working on this issue. Got the new jets and put the carb back on. I also inspected the dizzy. I measured the gap and it was correct based on the specs for my Fj40. I also cleaned the points. Furthermore I checked the vacuum advance and it seems to work however when vacuum is released the plate does not rotate as far back to the starting point as it should. Maybe that's OK but I could move the plate back a little bit more manually....
Since I cleaned some crap out that was in the Dizzy (rust particles, etc) I had to unscrew a ground wire that was attached to a little metal clip that a screw goes through to hold the rotating disk in place for the vacuum advance. I also checked the timing start position. If I read correctly there is a metal bump on the flywheel that represents where to lineup the dizzy. So I have the pin on the flywheel window pointing right over the metal bump therefore I have my cap and rotor lined up for spark plug 1. I assume this is correct, is it not? The metal bump lets you know to set the rotor to spark plug 1, right?
Well when I'm trying to start my Fj40 it no longer turns over. The only thing I get when I stop turning the key is a little white puff of smoke out of the carb. This is not a backfire just a puff. Did I not set the timing right with the metal bump or is that part right and maybe there is not a good ground in the dizzy now so the spark plug is not creating a actual spark? Thoughts.... I might just go buy a spark tester when I have time to mess with it again.
Since I cleaned some crap out that was in the Dizzy (rust particles, etc) I had to unscrew a ground wire that was attached to a little metal clip that a screw goes through to hold the rotating disk in place for the vacuum advance. I also checked the timing start position. If I read correctly there is a metal bump on the flywheel that represents where to lineup the dizzy. So I have the pin on the flywheel window pointing right over the metal bump therefore I have my cap and rotor lined up for spark plug 1. I assume this is correct, is it not? The metal bump lets you know to set the rotor to spark plug 1, right?
Well when I'm trying to start my Fj40 it no longer turns over. The only thing I get when I stop turning the key is a little white puff of smoke out of the carb. This is not a backfire just a puff. Did I not set the timing right with the metal bump or is that part right and maybe there is not a good ground in the dizzy now so the spark plug is not creating a actual spark? Thoughts.... I might just go buy a spark tester when I have time to mess with it again.
The timing mark lines up with the pointer when the engine is firing on #1 and #6. When the distributor is pointing to #1 you want to make sure that #1 cylinder is on the compression stroke and not #6.
If your engine doesn't turn over, there is a problem with the starter motor or battery. If you mean it doesn't run, that is a different problem.
If your engine doesn't turn over, there is a problem with the starter motor or battery. If you mean it doesn't run, that is a different problem.
- Thread starter
- #45
How is the engine firing on 2 cylinders at the same time? Or do you mean the engine can be firing on 1 or 6 when the pin is lined up with the timing ball? I thought the firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4. How do I make sure the #1 is on compression stroke, do I have to pull the valves to see the location of the #1 head?
The way I left it was that the timing mark is lined up with the pointer and the rotor is actually pointing towards the number 4 cylinder head if you draw a straight line from the rotor to the block. I therefore made sure the cap was put on so that the number 1 plug is directly over where the rotor is. Should the number 1 on the cap be lined up with the vacuum advanced therefore maybe I have it backwards?
The engine wont fire up. The starter is new Denso from a fj60 and it was running last week (still not right but it was running). I was fooling around cleaning the dizzy and after that it would not turn on. I really did not even change the location of the dizzy becuase when I pulled the flywheel window it looked to be in the right spot. When I turn the key it sounds like it would if there was not gas in the car (there is gas i put 5 gallons in and the carb bowl is half way filled with gas).
On 4 cycle engines, the engine rotates twice for each time a cylinder fires. That means that when the timing mark is aligned with the pointer, the engine could be firing on either #1 or #6. If it won't start and run the way it is now, try swapping the plug wires in the distributor cap 180 degrees (eg swap those directly across from each other) 1 with 6 5 and 2, 3 and 4 and see if it will run.
If you have had the distributor out, make sure that you have oil pressure before you run it.
If you have had the distributor out, make sure that you have oil pressure before you run it.
- Thread starter
- #47
Hi Jim,
I think I might have a small leak between the top of my insulator and the bottom of the top half of my carb. I'm not referring to the insulator between my manifold and base of the carb. I'm noticing a very very very small amount of gas leaking down the outside of this insulator on the front of the carb. This is a stock Aisin for my 75 2F. I read that this insulator has a built in gasket and its better to get a new insulator then replace the gasket. I found the insulator on ToyotaOverStock.com. However I'm not sure which one to order. The part number is 21165 and there are two with a $34 difference. Do you know which one I should get?
Regards,
Chris
A small leak between the carb base and its bowl isn't that bad. It is probably idle fuel leaking. You might try tightening the three screws (one is under the bottom of the carb through the base) or getting new gaskets (they come with some carb kits).
- Thread starter
- #49
thanks!
- Thread starter
- #50
So I tried swapping the position of the wires but as I figured it still made no difference as I have not changed the position of the distributor at all. Never got that far to test timing.
I bought an inline spark plug tester and as I suspected the light would not come on when trying to turn the engine over. I don't know what to think now. The only time the light comes on in the tester is very very faintly, for a split second, when I turn the key back to the off position. No idea what that is about.
It was working a few weeks back besides I still had the acceleration problem which is the original point to this thread. The only thing I have done to the dizzy was test the vacuum advance. When I did so I took the cap and rotor off, inspected them and they looked clean. However the mechanics of the dizzy looked all corded so I just unscrewed a few of the components, cleaned them up a bit, and put them back correctly. Today when trying to figure out this new problem I can see the cam rotate when I turn the key but when I put the rotor back on and cap I don't get a spark.
I have the right gap I think as I used the manual to make sure it was set correctly but maybe I will check that again. Make sure the cam lobe does push the contact point off the circuit contact.
Maybe my coil just want bad or something. It’s all stock from 1975. Any thoughts on why the inline spark test faintly lights up when I turn the engine off? Or why I get no light to constantly flash when I try to turn the engine on?
I bought an inline spark plug tester and as I suspected the light would not come on when trying to turn the engine over. I don't know what to think now. The only time the light comes on in the tester is very very faintly, for a split second, when I turn the key back to the off position. No idea what that is about.
It was working a few weeks back besides I still had the acceleration problem which is the original point to this thread. The only thing I have done to the dizzy was test the vacuum advance. When I did so I took the cap and rotor off, inspected them and they looked clean. However the mechanics of the dizzy looked all corded so I just unscrewed a few of the components, cleaned them up a bit, and put them back correctly. Today when trying to figure out this new problem I can see the cam rotate when I turn the key but when I put the rotor back on and cap I don't get a spark.
I have the right gap I think as I used the manual to make sure it was set correctly but maybe I will check that again. Make sure the cam lobe does push the contact point off the circuit contact.
Maybe my coil just want bad or something. It’s all stock from 1975. Any thoughts on why the inline spark test faintly lights up when I turn the engine off? Or why I get no light to constantly flash when I try to turn the engine on?
All this sounds very convoluted to me.(I have also consumed several Yuenglings- so take that into account)
I would go back to square one--do you have a FSM? (sounds like you do)If so, I would follow the setup for the ignition timing and point gap. If you do not, there are a couple of posts here that have them for your year truck. (search is your friend)
As Pin-Head says--in general, when #1 cylinder is at TDC, the dizzy rotor points close to #4 cylinder. Your rotor cap usually will have the cylinders marked on them---#1 cylinder on the dizzy is somewhat aligned with #4 plug(remember, this is just a physical reference position)--see pic
If the truck was working before you cleaned up the dizzy internals, and now it's not-----?? gotta be something in there that's not connected just right or has some corrosion on it still.
Rotor/cap will not typically go bad all of a sudden--more of a gradual thing--plus they wouldn't cause no fire at all
More likely a connection--the one that is insulated from the dizzy body to the points--maybe?
I would go back to square one--do you have a FSM? (sounds like you do)If so, I would follow the setup for the ignition timing and point gap. If you do not, there are a couple of posts here that have them for your year truck. (search is your friend)
As Pin-Head says--in general, when #1 cylinder is at TDC, the dizzy rotor points close to #4 cylinder. Your rotor cap usually will have the cylinders marked on them---#1 cylinder on the dizzy is somewhat aligned with #4 plug(remember, this is just a physical reference position)--see pic
If the truck was working before you cleaned up the dizzy internals, and now it's not-----?? gotta be something in there that's not connected just right or has some corrosion on it still.
Rotor/cap will not typically go bad all of a sudden--more of a gradual thing--plus they wouldn't cause no fire at all
More likely a connection--the one that is insulated from the dizzy body to the points--maybe?
I don't know what an in line spark tester is. I just do it old school:
Turn the engine until the points are open. Turn the key on. Pull the center wire out of the distributor cap and place the end 1/8 inch away from the engine block. Then short across the points with a screwdriver. You should get a spark every time if your ignition is working properly.
Turn the engine until the points are open. Turn the key on. Pull the center wire out of the distributor cap and place the end 1/8 inch away from the engine block. Then short across the points with a screwdriver. You should get a spark every time if your ignition is working properly.
