1HD-T resistance when cranking- won't run (1 Viewer)

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I'd also be interested in how he tied the front 1/4 panel exo-cage into the factory looking running boards.
 
They are tjm products , tjm delux winch bar and brush rails / sidesteps
 
ARB do the same thing ,probably ECB as well
 
Went and had a look at progress on the 80 today , haven't got to the compression test as of yet hopefully tomorrow. He showed me the injectors on the test bench no 1. Injector was just squirting out of all 4 holes in the nozzle in a straight line and a big dribble at the end it was not healthy , the others seemed alright and had decent pressure also. Took the time to have a look over it while it had the valve and timing covers off , was very clean inside even the inlet manifold was very clean timing belt and tensioner looked newish also. I'm still at a loss as to why it just stopped pulling into the driveway no.1 injector could of explained that tick noise Maybe. Fingers crossed compression test goes well the waiting is killing us lol
 
The slipper conrod bearings should be replaced every 100.000 K's on these engines. If you hear a rattle in the engine replace the timing belt and pulley
 
ok so compression test done as follows
1/ 440
2/520
3/430
4/526
5/490
6/520

so cylinder 1 & 3 are lower than the rest but not by an extreme amount, no 1 cylinder is believed to be the culprit of the tight cranking but still has fairly decent compression at 440 psi , no1 cylinder's injector was also the one that was stuffed pouring diesel in not spraying at all. so far im thinking bent rod mabey ? or stuffed bearing in the bottom end somwhere , what ever it is its causing that much resistance its making the engine stall as soon as it starts. next step take the oil pan off and check out the bottom end ( which is where im expecting to find something scary) , if that checks out ok then its head off
 
Yeah it's not perfect but on the other hand it's not bad for a engine with 280k on it and it's defiantly not extremely bad most of the time if u have a real issue you would see compression results in the 300's or less , I think 356 psi is minimum for 1hdt and about 80psi variance which mine is just over I don't think 440 is super low ? This test was done cold also , will be interesting to have a look once the pan is off. on the thought of bent rod I'm skeptical I've seen these run with bent rods something is defiantly causing a lot of resistance tho, was hoping to not have to pull the engine but it's not looking good right now
 
My old 1hdt Saraha pushed a rod through the crank case around 210.000 K's. Pull the sump measure and replace those slipper bearings. :)
 
ozcrusier said:
My old 1hdt Saraha pushed a rod through the crank case around 210.000 K's. Pull the sump measure and replace those slipper bearings. :)
Click to expand...

A rod thru the crank case now that is catastrophic failure! , will have the sump off soon so should see any signs of bearing failure will be interesting to see the condition of the beb's as the previous owner said he did them not long ago. I'm more interested in looking at the no1 cylinder condition and bent rod broken piston etc. the resistance is only evident when the cylinder is under pressure ( injector or compression gauge re installed ) and it only seems to happen on a certain piston stroke this makes me think more that the piston isn't traveling square up or down the bore on the full stroke and it's binding up causing the resistance . It is indeed a very unique problem never seen anything like it. Was thinking also is it possible the head gasket blew and is letting water in the cylinder causing the resistance , if this is the case would it show really high compression on that cylinder when tested?
 
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So finally figured out the issue it's no1 Beb spun the bearing and scored the crank up rods stuffed also I suspected this worst case senario but was hoping for a little better luck. Apparently not the case. Oh well I'm picking it up thisarv and going to start pulling the engine should be out by the weekend I'll try get some pics of the carnage and the process along the way. Any tips on removing 1hdt with leaving the auto in place .
 
Some pics of the damage
image.jpg

No.1 Beb
image.jpg

Looking up in the bores looked ok also look like It might have liners already in the bore , noticed some small cracks in the underside of the pistons on no1,5,6 cylinders

Started pulling the engine tonight
image.jpg
 
did they bend the oil squirter , ive seen this damage from putting the piston in backwards. thorfab has sent a motor to ateb up here which sounds quite simular to your issue.
 
wrongway around said:
did they bend the oil squirter , ive seen this damage from putting the piston in backwards. thorfab has sent a motor to ateb up here which sounds quite simular to your issue.
Click to expand...

I'll have to check and get back to you on that one I will be doing some work on it today so I'll check it out
 
Update : got the engine rebuild to a bare long engine no expense spared , crank was actually cracked , no1 rod stuffed, no1 piston cracked , funny enough everything else was in good nick bores were perfect head was fairly good also. Fitting everything to the engine now nearly done here's a few pics of the operation and the rebuilt engine.

Engine coming out:
image.jpg


Engine out! :
image.jpg


New engine :clap::
image.jpg


Starting to fit it out getting ready to install:
image.jpg


image.jpg
 
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