LSPV are they all the same? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 13, 2007
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768
Location
Denmark
Hi

after battling brakes for two days, I finally gave up on being stubborn, and bleeding it right.

I just insatlled the biggest 4runner calipers (casting S13WB, 4X45mm pistons), and went out to bed in my Hawk LTS pads and ended by the roadside with locked brakes... Damn!

I loosened a bleeder and drove home.

Thought my master was toast and wouldn't let the fluid back. Went home and took a new one i had one the shelf and put it in, easy install etc.

After this the brakes where mushy, the front didn't take right, but the rears where locking fine (12.5X35R15 KMII). I bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and bled and..... The pedal stayed mushy, so I finally tossed the tools, washed my hands and opened the computer and went on MUD!

Ok, so I didn't bleed the LSPV.. I knew it was there, but the bleeder looked really bad, so I thought I could just flush any bubbles out... I believe I was wrong, and my brake woes lies in a bubble in the LSPV. So I tried (as gently as could, using heat, WD40 and a lot of patience) to loosen the bleeder, and.... SNAP! damn!!! I broke it.

Then I tried to bleed it on the lines, but it just won't work right, so here's the Q:

LSVP's for a HJ61 are not availiable online, I know Toyota will demand an exorbitant price here, but I have found others online, looking exactly the same, but with other parts numbers, can I use these? (If I stay smart enough not to get the mirrored version)?

Thanks!
 
What is the bore size of the old m/c and what is the bore size of the new one? A mushy pedal can also result from having too much hydraulic leverage. Going bigger on the caliper pistons increased the hyd. leverage, which headed you in that direction. If you happened to install a m/c with a smaller bore than what came off then you increased it some more, and that could have been enough to get you a mushy feeling pedal while not actually having any air in the lines.
 
I have never been a fan of the LSPV. In fact, I have removed several of them and just put a coupler in place to connect the lines, or have eliminated all of the extra lines completely. I have never noticed a degradation in performance.

Dyno
 
What is the bore size of the old m/c and what is the bore size of the new one? A mushy pedal can also result from having too much hydraulic leverage. Going bigger on the caliper pistons increased the hyd. leverage, which headed you in that direction. If you happened to install a m/c with a smaller bore than what came off then you increased it some more, and that could have been enough to get you a mushy feeling pedal while not actually having any air in the lines.

Thanks ntsqd, I have read your extensive thread on the subject, and all the other ones on bigger calipers, m/c, arm leverage etc., but I'm grateful that you still take the time to help fellow mudders! It's not "just" a mushy feel, I can't lock up the front, if my life depended on it, the rear lock up fine, too fine that is! After reading and getting my head around how the LSPV works, i believe it's a bubble in the front brake line going to it either compressing so I simply don't have the needed hydraulic leverage to brake hard, or actually activating the security circuit in the LSPV, or maybe both.

I have never been a fan of the LSPV. In fact, I have removed several of them and just put a coupler in place to connect the lines, or have eliminated all of the extra lines completely. I have never noticed a degradation in performance.

Dyno

Thanks Dyno, but taking it away here would make the vehicle not passing MOT here...

But I've found a solution, I'll get back on it in a short while! :)
 
So I just picked up another body with some of the frame under it the other day. On that there was another LSPV, but it looked even worse than the one I broke the bleeder on, the pipes and bleeder were fused withv the casting in rust.
But I managed to loosen it and cut the pipes. The C-clip was fine, and the 30mm copper bolt too, so I took it apart which left me with the housing with pipe parts and bleeder on.
Since I don't have oxy/acetylene I have no proffesional tools able to heat it enough, but I had an idea:

i took a 12" piece of 4" metal ventilation duct, put it on two bricks, filled it half-way with barbecue coals and fired it up. Then I placed the LSPV body on the coals, and filled it.
Went inside and had a coffee and browsed IH8MUD.
When it was really good and warm I boosted the temp with a shot of air from below with the compressor.
then I took it out with a pair of pliers and dipped the bleeder screw, and only that, in a bucket of cold water, snd it screwed right out! Same procedure with the pipes.
ANother advantage is the rust scales where removed by the heat...

Now it has been zinc-primered and painted satin black, next I will polish the inside and put it back together, job done!!!

FYI Toyota wanted $450 for it!
 
...I wonder what temperature the seals inside it are rated to...

t
 
Not red-hot, that's for sure! But as I wrote, I took it apart, the only thing I heated was the cast iron housing.
Btw it's back together again, aaaaallllll purdy now!
 
Oh, duh, reading comprehension fail on my part- sorry!

t
 
I battle my factory LSPV long time ago .. I gave up .. yup I'm that kind of guy .. so I took the easy way and after all my brake upgrades I end using this .. a manual Prop valve .. sure not as good as having a load sensing one, but it works ..

%5BUNSET%5D
 

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