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WOW! I wasn't expecting this for awhile. Looks right, sitting in there. I've got a lot of questions, but I'll wait until you get there.

I honestly expected to start in late fall or early winter when things slow down for me a bit, but after driving it and having issues with the Holly yet again I figured I wouldn’t take it off road again so what the heck might as well take it apart.



Just picked up the parts for my transmission cross member and motor mounts.

“My laser guy has the files for these mounts if any of you 4BT guys need some shoot me a PM and I’ll give you his info”





So far they look like they will fit!

 
I matched the angle of the frame with my transmission mounts.


So the cross member bar would come in fairly straight.



Motor mount are in and welded, I read on the internets that guys offset their engine but that was not an option for me so mine is centered and level for better or worst.

Mounts look just like this but with more weld.






Wiring harness is next on my list.



Finding a suitable bulkhead was a PITA but this little beauty showed up today.

 
That a duetche pack connector? Looks nice! Loving the quality of work!
 
That a duetche pack connector? Looks nice! Loving the quality of work!
Thank you, yes it's a Deutsch DRB16-102SAE-L018.

  • Series: DRB Series
  • Cavities: 102
  • Contact Size: 4, 8, 12, 16
  • Current Rating: 100, 60, 25, 13
I wanted to run all my wires trough a single bulkhead and finding something that had a high amp rating for the main power coming in as well as the proper contact sizing for the rest of the circuits wasn’t as easy as it sounds. If you need one the gals at LADD were very easy to work with.

More info here: https://laddinc.com/product/?sku=DRB16-102SAE-L018
 
JMack,

Looking good! When you get the welding done, on the crossmember, would you post a picture. I need to redo mine, but has to have room for the PTO. Is there a rubber mount between the trans and crossmember or solid? Everything looks tucked up in the frame, very good.
 
Looking good.

Do you have enough room to remove the starter?
 
Ron,



I tried to cover all my bases dealing with the known 4BT vibration issues so I have an Energy Suspension Chevy transmission mount in the center and some Ruff Stuff spring eye type bushings on the ends of the cross member. Energy Suspension trans mounts have a metal safety locking feature so even if the rubber fails the T/case and trans will stay centered and if this happens I will make a solid mount to replace it and just rely on the Ruff Stuff bushings for vibration control.
 
Looking good.

Do you have enough room to remove the starter?

Yes but I'm not looking forward to that day.o_O
You'll have to unbolt the top motor mount and the starter will rock out.
 
Thank you, yes it's a Deutsch DRB16-102SAE-L018.

  • Series: DRB Series
  • Cavities: 102
  • Contact Size: 4, 8, 12, 16
  • Current Rating: 100, 60, 25, 13
I wanted to run all my wires trough a single bulkhead and finding something that had a high amp rating for the main power coming in as well as the proper contact sizing for the rest of the circuits wasn’t as easy as it sounds. If you need one the gals at LADD were very easy to work with.

More info here: https://laddinc.com/product/?sku=DRB16-102SAE-L018

Wow, is this a junction to re-wire your entire Pig? Sounds major!
 
Wow, is this a junction to re-wire your entire Pig? Sounds major!


I’ve only owned/driven the pig for seven months and have spent too much time trouble shooting electrical issues and dealing with Toyotas idea of wiring so yes from stem to stern new modern wiring with proper size wires with watertight connectors and appropriate fuse protection. 100% of the lighting will be also converted to LED's at the same time.





Work is getting in the way of any real progress but I did manage to get out in the shop and bash out some aluminum patch panels for my intake horn.





 
You have some skills sir!

I would love to look over your shoulder as you re-wire w/ waterproof products and go LED at the same time. Will you let us know what products you are using as you post useful pics? :) Thanks...

Thank you.

I'll try to get some pictures of the welds, a friend of mine had his welder weld the intake horn up for me and the guy welded it up inside and out. It's freaking amazing to see the inside of a cast piece of aluminum with no access completely welded with beautiful welds.


I started on the exhaust plumbing today and got the down pipe underway.

I’ll use 3” stainless steel all the way back with V-bands to make assembly easier.


 
JMack,

Why did the intake need to be patched like that?

The air horn is/was a Banks High Ram like this.




HighRam_72721.jpg



I bought it expecting to have to modify it some because as you can see in this picture it hangs off the side of the engine and I wasn’t sure it would clear the master cylinder.









As it turns out it really needed to be modified to clear my master and I don’t know why mine was so close compared to others I’ve seen on the internets but the engine is centered, leveled and square so it is what it is.

Cutting the horn and getting the 3” round section back onto the main body pointed in the right direction was a bit of a challenge and I almost scraped it and started over and just made a complete new one but I decided this will get me going and I didn’t have to spend much time doing it.


 
I decided to add a muffler to the exhaust system and V-band it so I can remove it if needed/wanted and I had to cut it down to fit.





I temporary mounted my intercooler with some unistrut brackets so I could start fitting the pipes.







The temporary unistrut brackets weren’t getting the job done so I stopped making pipes and started on a radiator/intercooler mount. I read that welding to the end tanks has led to cracking therefore I decided make pads that run the length of the core and sandwich the radiator between.



I machined pockets for ¼” rubber pads.





Lower mount getting ready to mount on the core support.





Top mount looks like this.

 
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Very nice fab work.

Man, I miss my 4BT.
 
Very nice fab work.

Man, I miss my 4BT.

Thank you Dave!

Did you prefer the 4BT over the OM617, I always thought the Mercedes was more civilized.
 
Really nice. I lost sleep over how to mount my rad. So, yours is just free standing, but tight between the mounts?

Excellent workmanship!
 
Really nice. I lost sleep over how to mount my rad. So, yours is just free standing, but tight between the mounts?

Excellent workmanship!


Thank you Ron,

I talked to a guy more in the know than I and looked at how the race vehicles mount aluminum radiators and the general consciences was some sort of a clamping system either on the tanks or core was preferred.

The high-end systems all seemed to mount on the core so I used that as the basis for my mount, because I also needed to mount an intercooler my radiator is 6” off the core support so I made the base from ¼” aluminum and added a few gussets to reduce flex, the top plate will clamshell and use the intercooler bolts to actually keep it snug against the radiator.

Basically the lower mount is rigid and the top mount is pulled down to clamp the radiator on the core.
 

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