- Thread starter
- #21
I don't think I'll be getting the 3rd's for free, only at VERY bargain prices.
Yeah it's definitely slick down there- I had to go tow strapped back up out of the bottom section. Hopefully next go around will be a bit easier.
New 60 owner and Build thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Farz
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I don't think I'll be getting the 3rd's for free, only at VERY bargain prices.
Yeah it's definitely slick down there- I had to go tow strapped back up out of the bottom section. Hopefully next go around will be a bit easier.
- Thread starter
- #22
Ohhhh the creek, that's where I bent my bumper. On a totally avoidable tree root of all things.
You are supposed to drive over that with your TIRE, not the bumper. 
If you weren't SOA, then you're sorta hosed, at least I didn't try to avoid it - didn't think there was a way to.
If you weren't SOA, then you're sorta hosed, at least I didn't try to avoid it - didn't think there was a way to.
great write up. keep up the good work !
- Thread starter
- #25
Ok, question time. I have the Ruff Stuff perches and they are not going to slide down and sit flush on the axle. Is it normal to have to grind them down to fit the axle housing? Also it looks like they sent me the 0 degree diff cut thingy. This saddens me a great deal. I'm afraid my Makita can only handle so much.
- Thread starter
- #26
So after a day of grinding and getting perches to sit flush with the axle housings, I made a small bit of progress.
Ground this to fit.
01957de387be39572b74477ed0fa506ad1c107cf55 by farz_fj60, on Flickr
This thing.... shoot me in the face. Ruff Stuff did indeed send me the 0 degree cutout thingy and this meant a great deal of grinding and reshaping the slot to fit around the diff. ground the hell out of it and joined it to it's sister piece. It sits on there pretty flush and plenty of area weld to the axle later.
01ad24bbf1b8bba63fca5282c49844b2ffeb5a3203 by farz_fj60, on Flickr
Yay it's permanently one piece now!
01ef141b319e8d667c62ddbcc21a57e8ba02362e0e by farz_fj60, on Flickr
Ground this to fit.
01957de387be39572b74477ed0fa506ad1c107cf55 by farz_fj60, on FlickrThis thing.... shoot me in the face. Ruff Stuff did indeed send me the 0 degree cutout thingy and this meant a great deal of grinding and reshaping the slot to fit around the diff. ground the hell out of it and joined it to it's sister piece. It sits on there pretty flush and plenty of area weld to the axle later.
01ad24bbf1b8bba63fca5282c49844b2ffeb5a3203 by farz_fj60, on FlickrYay it's permanently one piece now!
01ef141b319e8d667c62ddbcc21a57e8ba02362e0e by farz_fj60, on Flickr
Last edited:
Are you going to cut and turn the ends? Or did you already do that and I missed it? Since your spring perches are already off, it's harder to get the factory angle. I did a SOA and measured mine - it's somewhere here on mud.
- Thread starter
- #29
Yeah no c&t yet. Like dbleon said- I'm gonna point the pinion to the transfer and just rotate the casters back to fall between +3-5 or so. I did take a measurement when it was still attached in the original configuration and I think it was sitting about +1 degree. Let me know if you feel like I'm making a mistake Ricky.
Last edited:
Well, here's my thread when I did mine:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj...conv-dual-battery-front-bumper-lockers.319106
I put mine back to factory, and I've had quite a few miles on the tires with no issues I know of (drove from Idaho to Colorado & back, and lots of dirt in-between). I measured my rotation by measuring the spring perch to diff flange angle, before and after, then did the C&T.
I'm not an expert by any means. Anybody know why you would change it from factory?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fj...conv-dual-battery-front-bumper-lockers.319106
I put mine back to factory, and I've had quite a few miles on the tires with no issues I know of (drove from Idaho to Colorado & back, and lots of dirt in-between). I measured my rotation by measuring the spring perch to diff flange angle, before and after, then did the C&T.
I'm not an expert by any means. Anybody know why you would change it from factory?
It is well documented with SOA cruisers that 3-5* drives the best. This is second hand knowledge to me, but so a quick search on the subject. I'm guessing that Toyota set it at 1* to make steering lighter (friendly to the average consumer) and did not anticipate people routinely putting 33,35,37+ inch tires on their rigs.
The experts that work on these rigs all day for a living will say 3-5* is best if i recall correctly.
You aren't making a mistake, point the pinion at the tcase, then turn to what ever castor you're going for (I went for 5.5* and im extremely happy with it).
Keep posting them pics!
Keep posting them pics!
So I'm one of those engineers that need a reason. 'Drives the best' or 'is best' are just words to me. I'd like to actually understand what the technical reason is. There are millions of dollars that go into engineering of any vehicle, and they come up with what they do through a scientific process. Toyota took a American straight 6 engine design and made it even better. I have to assume that angle is set up for some reason. When you change it I do know you can have uncorrectable tire wear, but I'd be more concerned about what's going on with the birfields and the pressures put on the trunnions.
Do you know the technical reason? I guess I should do some research.
Going from +1 to +3 or +5 makes it harder to steer, but increases high speed stability. It is true that my rig does take some concentration on the freeway, but it's also true that there are times I'm glad it's not harder to turn, and I don't even want to think about loosing power steering. if it wasn't such a PITA to rotate the axle, I'd try turning mine a few more degrees and see if the effect is worth it.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #34
I will try to keep the updates coming. I'm in the "cutting more crap off the frame" stage. After that though, I'll pull the rear since I need those springs for the front. Start dry fitting and tacking things in and keep on trucking.
- Thread starter
- #35
Reading through your thread. I operate at a much lower quality level than you do! Regardless, awesome sir.
- Thread starter
- #37
Down in ze' Springs - Old Colorado City
Same here, I'm over one the east side near citidel mall. I've usually got the 60 outside with something torn apart haha
- Thread starter
- #39
What color is your LC? I don't see a ton of these around, I'll keep an eye out.
White. It's not complete mobile yet. Needs a carb rebuilt and adjustment. I see a 40 at the hanger all the time and saw a 60 on post. There's one I catch downtown that looks pretty nice
