Chilean Troopy Resurrection- FJ to BJ (1 Viewer)

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Thanks. We should be around that weekend. I might have the steering done by then.

Got the steering gear box mounting plate drilled and tapped last night. I need to order a column bearing to support the steering shaft before I assemble everything.
 
Bought another steering box and 60 -series steering shaft last week, the box I have is in serious need of a rebuild, factoring in shipping and the cost of rebuild, I opted to buy another used (non-leaking...yet) gear box. I'm going to try and use all Toyota parts (splined and u-joint) instead of the McMaster-Carr u-joint and machined woodruff keyed shaft. Similar to what I did on my 45 LPB, I used an FJ55 steering shaft/firewall set-up on it and it's worked well.

Started reading up on 24V stuff...lots of info and opinions to sort out. This engine was in a 24V vehicle. It's now in a 12V vehicle. I thought I could use the 24V starter, alt. etc. and run my 12V accesories via a relay and converter, but the more I read the more I'm thinking I should source a 12V alternator, starter, glow plugs and ditch all the 24V stuff altogether. Is this the consensus for these types of swap?

The reason I was going to keep the 24V stuff is because I have it, but if keeping it means I'll have issues with batteries (which aren't cheap), than I'd be ahead if I sourced 12V stuff right now.

Opinions? 24V starting, 12V everything else?

Dan

FAQ is your friend, https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/24v-engine-in-a-12v-truck.30469/

doesn't look like a good consensus though...
 
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Finally got the steering done. I need to get longer hydraulic lines. Not sure how I'll route them, up and over the engine or down around/below the radiator.
 
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Sectioned the connecting rod, had to take ~ 2-inches out of it.
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Found a bearing on Amazon for centering the steering shaft, cut the rag joint off and welded the splined end off a 60 shaft to the end of the steering shaft.
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Used 60 steering u--joints and splined shaft to build a new shaft connecting the steering wheel shaft to the gear box.
Shaft.JPG
 
Power Steering Lines.JPG
Looks like the factory set-up for power steering lines is to route them under the radiator. It also looks like the high-pressure line went from hose to a hard line and back to a hose? Not sure though.

Anyone have a set of these lines laying around?

Dan
 
I actually found the factory lines hanging on the fence behind it, they were in the pile of parts that I got with the engine, I just forgot about them...

PS Lines.JPG


They're too long (came off a 60) but I'll make them work. Probably section the hard lines using some compression fittings, then see about getting some new ones made up that are solid. These are corroded pretty bad.

And yes, it's much easier to move it with steering linkage hooked up to the steering wheel.

As for 12v/24v I think I'll try putting a 12v alt. in from an Isuzu, charge the batteries with it. And use one of these switches to keep the 24V starter.

http://www.gas-turbines.com/products/nt-sp-9844/nt-sp9844.htm

So I can keep the vehicle's 12v loads running dual bateries in parallel for normal operating and the switch reconfigures the batteries to series for starting.
 
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Not too terribly happy with how the routing of the 'factoy' lines turned out, but should be functional for now. I don't want to tun the engine over without fluid in the p.s. pump. I don't have a tubing bender that fits this size ube ~ 3/8"
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Got the inner fender clearanced to accommodate the power steering box. Bolted up the bib, starting to look like a complete vehicle.

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Sorting through more parts, the BJ60 driveline fits, maybe a bit short, but the flanges bolt up. I'm missing the nuts for the t-case flange. Missing all the bolts for the front driveline and it's 4-6 inches too short.
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Placed the air cleaner in the engine bay...Holy Cow! that thing is huge! I thought I'd found a place to mount a dual battery tray, but will need to rethink that location.

This air cleaner is from a 60, is the 40 series air cleaner smaller? Anyone have one, with hoses and mounting brackets for sale? I'll post up in the Classifieds.
 
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Let me know if you sell off the 60 air cleaner. I'm looking for one, and new is a bit pricey though I'm considering it.

Mad skilz on the welding btw. Great job!
 
Let me know if you sell off the 60 air cleaner. I'm looking for one, and new is a bit pricey though I'm considering it.

Mad skilz on the welding btw. Great job!


Thanks. I'll let you know. I'll use this one if I don't find a 40 series unit. I'll give it a week or two. I've plenty of other things to do to keep progress moving forward.

Nice progress! I will be driving this thing again for sure.


...via IH8MUD app

Thanks, Ken. How's the new addition doing?
 
The BJ60 air box is about a foot in diameter. How big is the BJ42 unit? I was thinking an 80-series air cleaner housing might work as it's got the outlet for the throttle body, and is canister style with a dust collector can; just not sure how it compares in size to the one meant to go in there.

Also, how is the vacuum pump fitting supposed to be routed? Mine is AFU and pointing straight up in the air.
 
Not sure about FJ/FZJ80, but HZ/HDT80's airboxes are large like 60 series. The BJ42 cleaner is what you need especially since you are basically building a LWB BJ42. It's ~2-3 inches smaller in diameter. Here is a pic of my Hj47 with 1HZ-T (disregard the ratchet strap over the battery and disconnected valve cover vent tube :hillbilly: )
HJ47_1HZ_swap8 003.JPG
. The airbox can is BJ42. The lid is BJ42 lid mated to HDJ80 curved portion of the lid. HTH!!
 
The 80 air cleaner is just as big as the 60...it just looks smaller 'cause the 80 has so much more room in the engine compartment.
 
Need to get back at it. I purchased $150 dollars in hardware last week, all the driveline hardware was MIA, along with half the softtop turn buttons (those go for ~$7.00 ea. from Cdan and there are 16 total) Ordered the softtop grommets from McMaster, should be here today. Got T-case input and output seals. Bought an HJ47 Air Box assembly, its set-up to mount on the U.S. driver's side; will need to modify the brackets to mount on the passenger's side, but should be able to make it work.

Still looking for a photo of how the vacuum pump fitting is supposed to be oriented off the back of the alternator. This is the best I've found, looks like it goes out horizontally towards the USPS?

vacuum pump fitting.JPG
 

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