Trailers made with a pickup bed... Too heavy? (1 Viewer)

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What's the total loaded weight. I'm sure no two like trailers weight the same, depending on changes.

If you are asking what the weight of a loaded M416... and asking me, in response to my comments... An empty M416 weighs (officially) 570 pounds, assuming it is not modified. I have slightly larger tires than stock (34x9.50/16), but not enough larger to add enough weight to worry about.
I have loaded mine with about 1450 pounds of fuel and gear on several trips, so total weight would be a little over 2000 pounds.
I have also loaded my M100 comparably. It has 35x12.5R15 rites and no "landing gear" on the neck, so it weighs about the same and has the same capacity ratings.



Mark...
 
Sorry Mark , I was asking you. Thats not tooo heavy . My home made I think weighs a bit more than yours. I need to have it re-weighed soon . I weighed it loaded at 1270lbs. Felt the same as empty. Planning on a trailer axle in the summer.
 
how heavy would a trailer be that is made of the back of a 3/4 ton pickup with all the contractor utility boxes, rack etc, axle with diff etc, you think?

been thinking about this for a camping trailer. Imagine all the camping stuff in these great boxes all over the back, plus a rack for a RTT and the bed for storage... ooolala.... prolly a tad wide for trails, though...
 
Full size would be mucho heavy . Every box on it would only add to the weight. I've seen them on the road being pulled by smaller suv's . Saw a Grand Cherokee pulling a full size behind, It looked like it was towing a storage shed .
 
how heavy would a trailer be that is made of the back of a 3/4 ton pickup with all the contractor utility boxes, rack etc, axle with diff etc, you think?

been thinking about this for a camping trailer. Imagine all the camping stuff in these great boxes all over the back, plus a rack for a RTT and the bed for storage... ooolala.... prolly a tad wide for trails, though...

Why don't you just use the 3/4 ton pickup itself... kinda silly to want to hang all of that on the back of your Cruiser.


Mark...
 
Why don't you just use the 3/4 ton pickup itself... kinda silly to want to hang all of that on the back of your Cruiser.


Mark...


I suppose I could, if I could find an inexpensive pickup front end and reattach it easily to the inexpensive utility box rear end trailer that I'm thinking about buying...
 
Haaa ? You mean you would weld two halves of a pick up ? Or would you tow the complete pick up as a trailer. Just kidding.

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I was trying to post a pic I found on FLICKR of a guy who built a trailer out of two back halves of a Chev van welded back to back With two axles (front and rear ) whow would it turn ?
 
Looking for some advice: I have a older chopped up Toyota pickup (1985 I believe) on 15" with original axle.
I want to swap for a trailer axle to lighten the weight, get elec brakes and match the width of the 80 (what is the measurement?) + 16" wheels

Talking to a trailer shop he indicates that trailer axle needs to be matched to trailer springs and the existing ones should not be used. I've no idea if he is just CYA or something valid in what he is saying.

I also need to ditch my large 'topper' and replace with a custom lid and rack platform for RTT (upcoming trip: http://www.thelongwayhome.us/ http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...rney-Alaska-to-Argentina-to-Africa-to-Ireland)
Also need a flat light (fiberglass?) tonneau cover, rather than getting a metal one built. Anyone know of one for would fit - everything I see out there are for Ford, Chevys etc.
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Thanks
 
Load of hog-wash, they don't have to be "matched." Traditional trailer springs are short and stiff and don't need shock absorbers. Go with them if you like broken eggs and shaken beer in the cooler.

Flip side is that the OE springs under the truck NEED shock absorbers and the trailer axle won't have any tabs on it. You're golden if you can reuse the spring plates and their lower shock mounts, otherwise you'll need to do or have some welding done. The trailer will not be stable or safe to tow w/o shocks.
If you're going to move away from the ball coupler incorporate lengthening the tongue a little. You'll pick up better towing traits and rear of tow rig clearance when jack-knifed.
 
Excellent - thats exactly what I needed to hear. I'll post up before/after pics as I (likely) go ahread
 
Mine is an older Datsun truck bed…. Tows perfect, wheels fine. Still has the original diff; re-arched springs with added leaf for load carrying; shocks and 33' BFG's.

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Mark - that looks sweet - did you do all the extra slides/units (pic behind the van)?
GS - yours looks very similar to mine right now. Just need a rigid light cover as a lid and then some sort of rack for RTT
 
SixRobbies trailer co in WA indicate $450 for 75" braked axle with 16" hubs, ubolts, no springs. that should about right?
Anyone know is that the right tracking width for an 80 ?
 
Heavy? I was concerned when I bought mine, but when I need to put it on jack stands, I can lift it - unloaded of course. Still has the Toyota axle and original shocks under it. I've had a number of utility trailers, and this by far rides the best, on and off road. I only miss a utility trailer when it comes to needing to get my golf cart somewhere.

My Toyota bed trailer
 
I know some guys have the irrational fear of using old threads but I do have something to add. I got this late 50's early 60's ford f100 pickup turned trailer from the junkyard last year. I knew it wouldn't be perfect as a trailer but it would be the perfect trailer for me.

I have replaced the bed, painted it, fixed the tailgate, and only have a couple things left before I go for inspection. Hopefully I will pass. One loftier goal is to replace the axle to take the same wheels as my van. When I bought it the lights/plug were good and the very old tires held 40lbs of air so I was able to drive it home ~20miles.

Replacing the bed was the most work. I used two different thicknesses of unistrut left to right followed by pt boards with unistrut between them for skid rails. The perforations in the unistrut will allow me to hook straps almost anywhere while still kind of looking like vintage skid rails. They are roughly the same width as original skid rails.

It may not be ideal from a performance stand point but once it gets a spare, a jerry can, and a toolbox on the tongue it will be great for family camping trips.
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Clever use of Unistrut, I like it!

I'll guess the van is either Ford's metric 8 lug of 5 x 5. Shouldn't be too hard to match either.
 
Just wanted to give an update. I have done a bit more work to the "trailer". I just had a couple of my old mud tires mounted to the stock rims. I decided for this summer to leave the original axle on. I finally got my spare axle but finding someone to do the shortening and add flats for bolting to the springs is a bit more than I want to deal with right now. I think I have narrowed the model year down to '57 or '58. I would like to get a spare wheel and some hub caps, I swear I had one somewhere that came with it.

I reinforced the tailgate by hammering some conduit into the top edge and some copper pipe into the bottom edge.

I replaced the 4 pin connector and redid the connections at the tail lights.

All that I think is left now before getting it inspected/registered is a license plate marker light, maybe some reflectors/marker lights, some metal plates bolted onto some poorly welded joints, and a couple reinforcements to one fender and one step.


I will take some pictures next nice day we have.




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