TRD Wheels and Tires (1 Viewer)

[WoodyCreature]

This is what I scored today on Craigslist. $850 gets the wheels and tires

. Did some searches here on mud about fitting on 100 vs 200 and didn't come up with specifics about which fits which or if spacers are needed or not. So basically I just called Slee and asked. The TRD wheels will fit the 200 no problem, the 100 will need the spacers (which Slee sells). Now reportedly the stock 200 wheels will fit the 100 without spacers (how this is I'm not sure) but will follow up with details and pics as I make the switch. I'm posting this on the 100 and 200 forums so it will be searchable.

 

[hoser]

Those wheels don't bolt onto the front of the 100 without a spacer because the wheel's bore diameter is not 110mm all the way through. It steps down to ~100mm or so at the face. Needs a 10mm or wider spacer for the front only. The 200's hub doesn't protrude out as much.

 

[Bomar]

Call around to local custom wheel shop..you can have hubs re bored for maybe 50 each the no spacers needed at all

 

[options2]

Those wheels don't bolt onto the front of the 100 without a spacer because the wheel's bore diameter is not 110mm all the way through. It steps down to ~100mm or so at the face. Needs a 10mm or wider spacer for the front only. The 200's hub doesn't protrude out as much.

I wanted these so bad, but ended up not getting them because of this very reason. I didn't want to run spacers.

 

[WoodyCreature]

I wanted these so bad, but ended up not getting them because of this very reason. I didn't want to run spacers.

Spacers for font and back are only $280. And the front ones are $150. It's reported that you don't need rear spacers because of the hub doesn't stick out.

 

[options2]

Spacers for font and back are only $280. And the front ones are $150. It's reported that you don't need rear spacers because of the hub doesn't stick out.

Yeah I knew that, just kinda didn't want to run spacers that's all. But again, I love those wheels.

 

[hoser]

Spacers for font and back are only $280. And the front ones are $150. It's reported that you don't need rear spacers because of the hub doesn't stick out.

And realize the offset on that wheel is +50mm (vs 60mm). So using a 25mm wheel adapter/spacer will bring the wheels out a total of 35mm from stock.

 

[cap80]

The need for spacers with these wheels has been discussed to death in a bunch of spacer treads but the one answer I can't find is does the 10mm slip on spacer make it so the wheel is no longer hub centric or is the hub long enough that it still supports the wheel?

I've read a number of article on hub vs lug centric wheels and all caution against lug centric applications due to the increased shear loads in the lugs.

This concerns me with 1" spacers as well as they seem to be all lug centric.

I found a set of these rims for a steal and want to put them on a 100 when I find one.

 

[OG 91 LC]

Check out Rapido's build thread.

 

[hoser]

Regarding: lug centric vs hub centric... The LC100 seems to be a bit of a combination. For OE alloy wheels, it has shank style lug nuts and the wheel, will be centered on the lug nuts no matter if there is a center hub or not.

For steel wheels, the lug nuts are tapered and without a centering hub, I can see how one could mount the wheel off center.

With 1" wheel adapters, the wheel adapter will be hub centric to the vehicle's hub and uses tapered lug nuts. Then the alloy wheel will be lug centric to the wheel adapters with shank style nuts.

Edited for accuracy and visual from wanderingwilly's brakes...

 

[cap80]

The centering of the wheel it's the issue from what I understand. It is that with a hub centric application the hub is taking the vertical shear forces and the lugs hold the wheel on the hub thus only handling lateral forces. When a wheel is no longer supported by the hub due to spacers or an oversized bore the lug nuts also have to handle the vertical shear forces for which they are not designed.

Hence my question about 10mm spacers and the hub still carrying the wheel. I was hoping to just use 10mm spacers in the front and nothing in the back but if this doesn't retain hub centric support for the wheel then I'll have to look at other spacers.

Here is one of the articles that explains it well.

http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm

 

[Ali FJ80]

I have 10mm spacers and the hub does still protrude out a bit past the spacer and the wheel does grab onto it. Not as much as without the spacer obviously but enough to center the wheel and keep some of the force on the hub.

 

[RS6tofj80]

10mm will work - and is enough edge to catch it looked like- I opted for the Spidertrax to widen the stance and run a 305... they've proven to be very smooth and changed my view on spacers as a whole..... that said, I'd love a forged rim with the right offset that didn't require spacers...

 

[fumanchu]

I had a Rockwarrior tundra with these wheels for 4 years.

They were replaced 2 times on Toyota's dime due to a defect that they all have. They make a horrible clicking noise when the weather warms up. No one can figure it out. Search over on the Tundra solutions forum so you know what your getting into. They look great and are light but if you drive with the window down it will drive you F'ing nuts. Notice they don't offer them on the latest Tundra updated model.

Just a heads up for everyone.

 

[hoser]

^^I know this has been an annoying problem for the Tundra guys. Maybe that's why they are happy to unload these wheels. But I wonder if the problem is specific to Tundras. I didn't experience any clicking with my RW wheels on my 100 nor do I hear about the clicking problem with the 200 crowd. Small sample size, I realize.

 

[cap80]

Perfect. Just what I was looking for.

I have 10mm spacers and the hub does still protrude out a bit past the spacer and the wheel does grab onto it. Not as much as without the spacer obviously but enough to center the wheel and keep some of the force on the hub.

 

[hoser]

The centering of the wheel it's the issue from what I understand. It is that with a hub centric application the hub is taking the vertical shear forces and the lugs hold the wheel on the hub thus only handling lateral forces. When a wheel is no longer supported by the hub due to spacers or an oversized bore the lug nuts also have to handle the vertical shear forces for which they are not designed.

Hence my question about 10mm spacers and the hub still carrying the wheel. I was hoping to just use 10mm spacers in the front and nothing in the back but if this doesn't retain hub centric support for the wheel then I'll have to look at other spacers.

Here is one of the articles that explains it well.

http://tires.about.com/od/understanding_wheels/a/hub-centric-vs-lug-centric-wheels.htm

Thx for the article. I've also read others like it. The debate will go on and on. I still think the idea of hub centric is mainly for centering while mounting. I have had several high quality aftermarket wheels with hub centric rings, some are made of plastic. I do not believe the plastic handled any more load than the weight of the tires/wheels. If they say the hub takes shears forces and the lugs handle lateral forces, what happens with you stomp on your brakes, what is the hub doing for shear forces?

 

[Junglejack]

Do the 17 inch TRD wheels require spacers? Am not certain whether the ones above are 18's. Apologies for my ignorance about TRD's.

 

[yotasavg]

Rock Warriors are 17's, as shown above. So yes, as discussed above, get them machined or run spacers.

 

[Junglejack]

Andrew,
Thanks for the reply. I was afraid of that, but was hoping the 17's might not have needed them. Saw a set with tires for sale, but am somewhat reticent about spacers.
Best,
Jack