1966 resto (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 8, 2014
Threads
16
Messages
184
Location
Wilmington, N.C.
Introducing myself and "Leaky" to the 25 forum. Thanks for all the support thus far!
I am a 40 enthusiast and this is my fourth 40 (67 and 77 back-n-de-day) and a 77 with 23K miles, original paint,etc which I recently sold because I wanted a project (or at least thought I did). I am neither a mechanic nor a body guy and have the fine motor skills of Bam Bam. Lastly I would describe myself as a "practical purist" replacing with OEM when available and contemplate a frame-on, near stock resto. I am pretty handy with a blast cabinet and a rattle can.
"Leaky" is a 66 with a good frame and un-cut body sporting a Mayish 1979 2F installed by PO. The tarp in the pics describes how she got her name (radiator, Tranny, T-case, output shaft, wheel cylinders, fuel pump,one tire, rear Diff, oil sending unit, and even the battery). When I drove her home, my driveway qualified for a Super Fund site.
All but the output shaft leak(and the leak in my wallet) have been repaired( I'll read posts tonight for the best way to fix) , a complete new brake system, and work in progress in the engine compartment, seat frames,etc. I'll post pics on progress .
Thanks again!

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Welcome! Nice 40! On the job your skills will get better and better ;). If the brakes are original and you did that all by yourself you probably already learned that parts for these early 40's are harder to find then later models. Did no one tell you about the bezel orientation yet?

Have fun:cheers:.
 
Honestly never noticed. It may well be the one thing that doesn't/hasn't leaked. Will make her right.
Thanks
 
Working all over-everything needs attention but predominantly now in the engine compartment. Currently a mix of colors spring green, primer, tan and black over spray, etc. I decided to paint the compartment a satin black with accessories gloss black. I started on the passenger side and will move to the drivers sides and work on the middle last. Making progress....

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I need some help from the 25 section! One of the limitations of being a part-swapper as opposed to a mechanic is I'm quickly in a bind when I can't find it in a book. Leaky is a 66 (9/65) with a 2F. 1) Is the air cleaner assembly correct for 66? 2) Any guesses as to why the welding on the end above the carb? 3) anyone have a spare they want to sell or referral(as opposed to grinding welds,etc) ?

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More help needed-this time with identifying the carb and voltage regulator- Is this a 66 carb or an upgrade consistent with the 2F? Is the VR correct for 66 or a later version?
As always
Thanks!

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More help needed-this time with identifying the carb and voltage regulator- Is this a 66 carb or an upgrade consistent with the 2F? Is the VR correct for 66 or a later version?
As always
Thanks!
Using SOR's carb identifier, it appears (based upon the fitting from the pump although oriented 90') it appears that the carb is a 3/73-12/74. Any opinions??????
 
The first post in this thread explains how to decipher the carburetor date code: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/date-code-carb-identification.88356/#post-7175382

There is an air cleaner for sale here that appears to be the same as what you currently have, although you shouldn't take my word on whether it is correct for a '66 or not. It looks correct, but I don't know for sure: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/ut-fj40-1973-1967-parts-oil-pan-1f.812805/#post-9286651

Is there a part number anywhere on the regulator?
 
Thanks my friend! I'll remove the crud, find the code and decipher it. Thanks for the lead on the air cleaner assembly-definitely different than the one I have as mine does not have the lateral "selection lever" (road vs off road ??) in the body/bowl portion. I am hopeful someone will let me know what assembly is correct to the 66 model.
With respect to the VR, it has been painted two or three times and nothing is legible. I am guessing I have the earlier model based upon the absence of a plastic clip connector.
If you recall, I initially just wanted to fix the brakes and stop the leaks....... Thanks again
 
Somebody must have drilled a hole to use on a Rochester carb maybe... Then when they swapped in the 2f the closed up the hole with welding a metal disc on it... If you look under ... Is there a hole?

Looks like a later carb than 66' IMO
 
There is a hole indeed-good call !!! Any opinion as to whether this assembly is correct for the 66 ?
Thanks (again)!
 
Upon looking at some pics I found this one from a 67 ... Oil bath air cleaner... Also I knotice some carbs had no holes and some do ... I'm not up on my air cleaner info ... But... I would say this one is close to yours

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Thanks- Based upon your earlier tip,I'm guessing the second tube/nipple (which also was capped off )and the hose retaining clip( bent back) were PO mods to accommodate different carb/engine configuration and rendered unnecessary with the current combo. I am going to try and clean it up with a flap wheel and grinder. you may well see a future WTB post if I get carried away.
 
First take the time to expand all the pictures you uploaded. Problem with not expanding them you click on the picture every picture on the page is there and smaller than the expanded pictures. Air cleaner I'm guessing is 70-72 range. Many a 73. 3/69 to 9/69 is a different air cleaner. Before that was a one barrel. The carburetor could be from that time frame. My 2/73 still used the cable not linkage for gas pedal to carb. Thought that lasted thru the 73 model but could be wrong. 1/75 and later carburetor used a stud out top to secure the air cleaner in the US market. As for the patch on the air cleaner what does it look like on the inside? maybe a hole drilled for a stud and large piece used to patch. This many years later it could be a lot of things. Picture Johnny posted I believe is a 3/69-9/69 two barrel and not a oil bath. I have one stored away. Correct air cleaner would have been a one barrel oil bath which I also have store away. Destin's thread on his 64 will have picture. 9/67-3/69 had one barrel air cleaner with replaceable paper element. Unless your having issue with your VR I wouldn't do anything with it. On my 9/67 (68 model) I had replace the pulley on the alternator when I replaced it years ago. The one on the replacement caused the VR to go crazy until I installed the old smaller pulley.
 
Thank you! I will heed your advice regarding the photos and VR. I will check and photo the top of the assembly as well as decipher the carb #'s. My suspicion is that "Leaky" is a thoroughbred wantabe in a mixed-breed's body. With that being said, my intent is make what I have look better as replacing with model correct would likely require mods( single to 2 barrel carb configs/oil bath to paper,etc ) and I may be worse off.
Thanks again and more pics soon
 
Progress-s-l-o-w-l-y. Before and afters. Thanks for the help with the air cleaner/carb ID(cast in 73). I ground down the welds, blasted and painted (gloss)the air cleaner assembly. The gasket was toast and was replaced with 1/8 rubber sheet. Removed and cleaned VR and painted. Driver's side of engine compartment painted satin black. Replaced the rear lift gate springs with gas lifts per MUD threads- gone from resting on the spare and a head gash waiting to happen to auto open and 2-handed closing.Next comes repainting the valve cover and replacing VC nuts and seals and repainting the middle section with plans to replace/refurbish accessories
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as I go. Looking for coral fabric and early silver powder code for seat refurb.... Thanks for the continued help!!!
 
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Sorry for the delay in posting but I'm slow and steady. I've done just about all the damage I am going to do (not that I "could" do mind you) in the engine bay for now. New MC and new brake lines. Air cleaner assy,blower assy, valve cover, VR, horns, 4WD vacuum, etc blasted and painted, new lines,clamps and hoses. The cooling is temporarily engine to engine as I've removed the heater for resto.
 
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Moving now toward paint prep. Doors and top are off. Seats are out and frames/panels are at the powder coater. As is glove box, 4x4 lever, bracket, etc. I'm currently removing small pieces, hinges, brackets, door stops, etc blasting and priming to carry to the painter when Leaky makes the trip. If I can get it off and it will fit in the blast cabinet, it's fair game.
My plans are to run it without the top and doors as a weekend driver. Thanks again to all-particularly the 25'ers for sharing your knowledge and inspiration for those days when you just "gotta walk away from it". More pics and plenty of questions to follow soon.

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Happy holidays to all! The weekend warrior continues slow and steady. Got a new phone( got a call the other day from 2000- it wanted it's flip phone back). The only thing I know less about than 40's is anything relating to computers or phones.Inching closer to paint. Short of the tub, if it can come off, off it comes.
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