My misc restoration ramblings/questions thread (1 Viewer)

[KLF]

The truck is now parked outside, marinating in Fluid Film. I went thru 3 or 4 spray cans, then about 1/2 of a gallon can with my undercoating sprayer. Frame is heavily coated, inside and out. By next Spring when I start working on it again, the Fluid Film should be cured and have a nice waxy coating on everything.

A pressure washer would wash off that valuable coating.

Yes this truck will be my primary DD once I get it on the road again, especially in the winter. The last thing I need is aNOTHer vehicle sitting around. That just makes no sense. If the truck runs solid and dependable, I may consider selling my car, as I doubt I'll be driving it much.

 

[KLF]

Time to bring this thread back. Been working for a couple of weeks now that I got a bunch or home maintenance projects done. Engine fired right back up after dumping some fresh gas in the tank, from sleeping all winter. Gave the truck a much-needed bath, now it's in the garage and the push is on to get it back to DD status before it gets too cold.

First up is getting all the wiring straightened out, as I'm adding a few goodies. Things like power windows & locks, and a keyless entry system. The windows and locks are all with OEM parts that I've been collecting over the past... oh... probably 10 years or so. I did a temporary hookup with wirenuts and crimps and everything works, so now I'm doing the install.

Today's status is getting the driver's door done. I'm installing 4X Innovations quick-release hinges, so they had to go thru the blast cabinet and fresh paint today. To make door removal easy I've extended the door wiring harnesses about a foot so the connectors are much easier to reach, instead of being buried behind the dash.

Doors are heavily sound-deadened. Inside the door is CruiserCrap, and I have Dynamat Extreme on the inner door behind the panel. I'm upgrading the panels to the sculptured 4Runner ones, they look great. I'll post some more when I get the door back on.

 

[pappy]

That was one heck of a tease. Come'awn man, give us something to drool over.

 

[KLF]

OK, here ya go...

Completed driver's door, except for the map pocket. I had to remove it from it's stock location for the speaker, my plan is to relocate it back away from the hinge, but I need to get the door hung and install the driver's seat, make sure it's not gonna interfere.

The fuzzy padded parts were disgusting when I got those panels, so I had an interior shop re-cover them.

Windows & lock switches. They cleaned up pretty well...

Speaker: Hertz ECX130 5-1/4" coax. Had to make the spacer rings out of some scrap MDX because of depth limitations to the window track. Also had to use the "spacer on the window track bolt" trick.

4X Innovations hinges, painted and mounted. Not using the hitch pins they came with, I'm using hardened 1/4" bolts instead.

Incidentally, Rustoleum "Regal Red" paint is an incredibly close match for OEM color code 3D7.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Time to bring this thread back. Been working for a couple of weeks now that I got a bunch or home maintenance projects done. Engine fired right back up after dumping some fresh gas in the tank, from sleeping all winter. Gave the truck a much-needed bath, now it's in the garage and the push is on to get it back to DD status before it gets too cold.

First up is getting all the wiring straightened out, as I'm adding a few goodies. Things like power windows & locks, and a keyless entry system. The windows and locks are all with OEM parts that I've been collecting over the past... oh... probably 10 years or so. I did a temporary hookup with wirenuts and crimps and everything works, so now I'm doing the install.

Today's status is getting the driver's door done. I'm installing 4X Innovations quick-release hinges, so they had to go thru the blast cabinet and fresh paint today. To make door removal easy I've extended the door wiring harnesses about a foot so the connectors are much easier to reach, instead of being buried behind the dash.

Doors are heavily sound-deadened. Inside the door is CruiserCrap, and I have Dynamat Extreme on the inner door behind the panel. I'm upgrading the panels to the sculptured 4Runner ones, they look great. I'll post some more when I get the door back on.

View attachment 920710

Question about Cruiser Crap. Is it just sprayed in? Did you cover the drain holes along the bottom seam? My doors rust out along the bottom seam, so I am looking for a solution, other than buying new/used doors far too often.

 

[KLF]

No, CruiserCrap is a peel-and-stick material, thick membrane with a foil coating, a much cheaper alternative to Dynamat. I'm not sure which one dampens better, both are very sticky, but I found I could increase the adhesion with the CruiserCrap with some heat from a heat gun. I have done quite a bit of the cab with it, but still have more to go. I did the inside of the doors with it, had to break it into 4 chunks so I could get it inside the door.

I would never block those drain holes, they are very important. I keep my doors from rusting by spraying liberal amounts of rustproofing inside them and let it drool out the drain holes. I've used everything from straight 90W (stinky!), to Amsoil Metal Protector (good stuff but $$$), my latest is Fluid Film. You can buy it in spray cans at AutoZone, I also bought a gallon can and have soaked my frame inside and out.

 

[KLF]

Today is carpet installation day. I bought a molded carpet made by ACC (based on WarDamnEagle's recommendation and excellent write-up https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/replacement-carpet-kits.563528/). I actually bought it from auto-interior.com, in #877 Dove Gray, with the extra heavy backing, it was $220 delivered.

This is a very nice carpet, molded with all the right lumps, and I'm happy with the color and quality. The heel pad actually feels more sturdy than the original.

The only issue is the new one doesn't have the little plastic clips that slip into the slots on the wire "conduits", by the door sills. I might try to transfer them over, or just not worry about them.

As you can see, it is very over-sized, like 4-5" all the way around, and there are no holes in it at all. I'm going to follow the directions and NOT use the old carpet as a pattern, just make a few initial cuts for the shifters and stereo brackets, then lay it in and start trimming.

 

[KLF]

In a quandry about my front bumper. When it was new, I primed and sprayed (with my HVLP gun) it with Rustoleum, but I'm not happy with the longevity. It's decent paint, but just can't take the abuse of road spray and grit hitting it, I had a lot of pitting that eventually became some bad rust spots. So, I'm looking for another more durable option. I'm gonna have it sandblasted before painting.

Stopped by the shop that did my paint work today, the owner recommends LineX, since he does it there. Said he would do it for $150. Then I got to thinking about using something like Herculiner or Monstaliner. I have plans to make some more mods to this bumper eventually, so I don't need a permanent solution right now, I just need to get it back on the truck for the winter. But I want it more durable than Rustoleum.

I've read about the UV fading of Herculiner, anybody have any experience with it? Monstaliner is supposed to be better about this, but it's more $$ (of course).

I was also considering Hammerite.

This is what the bumper looks like, freshly painted back in 2003. This is a Front Range Off Road bumper, but unfortunately they don't make them anymore.

 

[The Jade Bean]

First off I love that front bumper! As for liners IMHO Hurculiner is not a good sun exposed product (from experience) and I'm unsure about Monstaliner. I have personally used Al's Liner and I was very impressed all around!

I'd personally re-prime & paint and then line it with Al's.

-Daniel Kent

 

[KLF]

Yes, I really like this bumper too. It's too bad he doesn't make them anymore. He was custom making them for different body lifts.

Never heard of Al's Liner until now. But I don't see it in small quantities, just the bed liner kit for ~$86. I guess I'd just go with the LineX for less hassle.

 

[The Jade Bean]

Yes, I really like this bumper too. It's too bad he doesn't make them anymore. He was custom making them for different body lifts.

Never heard of Al's Liner until now. But I don't see it in small quantities, just the bed liner kit for ~$86. I guess I'd just go with the LineX for less hassle.

I'd buy their bumper if they still made them.
Yeah Al's Liner isn't cheap, but it's a multi part mix so you don't have to use it all at once.

-Daniel Kent

 

[pappy]

This is a Front Range Off Road bumper, but unfortunately they don't make them anymore.

I'd buy their bumper if they still made them.

You and a whole lot of other people. I love, love, love mine.

 

[KLF]

How the bumper looks now. Really needs a sand blasting and a decent coat of paint. I'm thinking of using Monstaliner, but I'm gonna call them tomorrow with some questions.

I had to add some flanges above and below the hawse, to keep it from flexing if I have a hard pull from above or below.

Rear bumper, with just a quick coat of primer:

 

[Waterboy]

Who made the rear bumper? That is sweat looking.

 

[jynx]

Herculiner + sun = fail. I did my truck bed a few years ago. Now it is faded and chalky. If you want the most durable coating I would look at a 2 part epoxy system. Only bad thing is they aren't super stable in UV exposure. Epoxy with an acrylic top coat should give you a good system. Durable and UV stable. The monstaliner is supposed to be good stuff. It seems if you just need to get thru the winter, a good sanding and several coats of any good rattle can should get you that far. Then once you have the bumper tweaked the way you want it look at a more permanent solution.

 

[KLF]

Who made the rear bumper? That is sweat looking.

Funny story about that rear bumper. I happened to pop into the classifieds on Pirate one day back in 2007, and some guy in Florida had listed the bumper minutes before. It was just the main 2x5 part but it also had the tow hooks and the trailer receiver in it already. He was having it made for his Tacoma, but changed his mind. I think I snagged it for $100 shipped, I couldn't even buy the steel for that. I had to make the mounts out of some 3/8" scrap plate and some 1" tube, they actually go all the way through the 2x5, it is super strong. I also did the cutout for the plate on the stock bed location. It came out really nice. I may try to add a swingout some day.

Herculiner + sun = fail.

Ya, I read some reviews about this, so that's not an option.

Dropped both bumpers and my BudBuilt crossmember and skid off at the sandblasters this morning, he promised to have it done by the end of the week. No problem, I'm still researching paint. He called me at 2:00 this afternoon, it was done, ready to be picked up. Wow. They did it all for $120, and did a great job, just like my frame. They took me back into the booth to show me their latest project, a '64 Aston Martin DB5 that is being totally restored (the infamous "James Bond" car from Goldfinger).



I've tried to call Monstaliner twice now, I sit in a "queue" until it makes me leave a message. Nobody ever calls back. Still not sure what to do, but I need to do something fast as I can't leave bare steel sitting like this for long. I may just go with my standard Rustoleum Red Metal primer and then Industrial Semi-Gloss Black for now. Ya, it should get me through the winter, then next summer sand it down some and do something like Monstaliner (assuming they ever answer the phone).

 

[KLF]

Nothing is more motivating than a new set of tires.

 

[MatS]

Sexy set of Duratracs... what are the wheels from?

 

[KLF]

2000 4Runner. Bought them from a Mudder a couple of years ago, I need to get one more for a spare.

Now I have 8 SR5 15" alloy wheels to get rid of. Not sure if they are worth anything.

 

[The Jade Bean]

I have 4 with tires to get rid of too. Your setup looks great! Did I miss the tire size?

-Daniel Kent