Factory caster? (1 Viewer)

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Sorry for so many questions I'm having a slow start today. So if he bends the arms and resets the caster to factory then that by default resets pinion angle to factory but because of the difference in height the stock drive shaft will be unhappy?
 
Awhile back LT went thru great pains to explain this to me because I just wasn't getting it. Then I had an 'ah-hah!!!' Moment. You have to think about the axle rotating on, or as, an axis. It's a give and take situation. If you give caster, you take pinion. And vice versa.
 
I'm thinking about this like this. When you bend the arms you essentially drop the front axle without any rotation.
 
It'll be all back to stock up front @ 7 degrees bent, with the 7 degrees of mayhem caused by 4" of lift. And 3* for 2'' or 10.5 for 6, etc, etc.

I can weld 6" of 5/16" plate shaped to fit in the recessed area of the radius arms @ the bend as well.

I dont think bending them for a 6" lift (@10.5 degrees) is still realistic. Thats quite a bit of deformation, IMO.
 
Sorry for so many questions I'm having a slow start today. So if he bends the arms and resets the caster to factory then that by default resets pinion angle to factory but because of the difference in height the stock drive shaft will be unhappy?

Yes, except for the last section of the sentence. This is no different than a caster plate @ the axle when looking in crossection
 
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I'm thinking about this like this. When you bend the arms you essentially drop the front axle without any rotation.

That is correct. Now you need to add the fact that in stock form the pinion points to a place that is out in front of the t-case. So while the operating angles of the u-joints are equal they a positioned in an opposite direction.

Now as you drop the axle as you stated the pinion slowly starts to point closer and closer to the t-case and when it is aligned perfectly to the T-case the pinion is aligned for a DC shaft.
 
Thank you for the explanation.
 
So is this something worth pursuing? Is there a market? I work 58 hr/week and have very ambitious projects for my 80 going on.

Don't wanna waste anyone's time (mostly my own:D )if there isn't a real need for something like this.
 
So is this something worth pursuing? Is there a market? I work 58 hr/week and have very ambitious projects for my 80 going on.

Don't wanna waste anyone's time (mostly my own:D )if there isn't a real need for something like this.

I'm interested. Close enough that I could be a guinea pig too. I need a temporary caster solution until the day comes where I link the damn thing. I have current caster measurements. I have the lifetime alignment deal with Firestone so I could get updated numbers after installing the arms then give folks real-world feedback.
 
I'm interested. Close enough that I could be a guinea pig too. I need a temporary caster solution until the day comes where I link the damn thing. I have current caster measurements. I have the lifetime alignment deal with Firestone so I could get updated numbers after installing the arms then give folks real-world feedback.


PMed you jose
 
Most aftermarket arms are longer to maintain wheelbase and to give the needed clearance to avoid contact with the rear of the front fender when turned and compressed. With that said with bent arms being shorter will there be clearance issues?
 
on a 4" lift with the stock arms in place the wheel base for all practical purposes is the same. In stock form the axle is 2" above the center of the rear frame mount bolt on the arm, So after a 4: lift it is now 2" below that same point. The vertical position of the axle is the same.

I've checked this on two trucks now. I'm sure not exactly in the same spot but close enough.
 
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The difference is exactly 3/16"
 
The niche for this type of caster correction may be lifts that need more than 8 degrees of rotation, such as more than 5 inches of lift. 8 degrees of rotation is where you get into the tie rod hitting the arm with other types of caster correction. If you bend the arm near where the tie rod crosses, you can bend in more than 8 degrees without interference. As far as the axle moving rearward due to lift, you could install offset bushings to move it back forward or plate and redrill the rear mount.

It isn't going to be cost competitive with other caster correction methods for lower lifts because of shipping costs and the cost of welding in reinforcements.

Looks like a cool press brake though. It would be fun to bend the $hit out of an arm just to see how far you could take it.
 
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Bend point is behind the tierod, welding is included and it's FEMA 71c elite inner shield wire and a 572 plate. They can't be rebent after the welding, only smashed/deformed @ that location.
 
The difference is exactly 3/16"

The 3/16 is determine on a horizontal plane not where the arm rides. With the arm now at a greater angle the overall is shorten more, yes?

Guys with stock arms in the past have had clearance issues was what prompted the question. I personally did not have a problem due to longer arms.

Bend point is behind the tierod, welding is included and it's FEMA 71c elite inner shield wire and a 572 plate. They can't be rebent after the welding, only smashed/deformed @ that location.

For clarity you are cutting the arm behind the tie rod, bending the needed angle, welding, and plating?
 

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