Wow! Those last two posts of yours are like opening the floodgates. Specific tuning information is a very rare thing. Thanks Graham, from everyone.
The Official 1HD-T/FT Fuel Pump Mod Tuning Thread (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter ForealBoreal
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Well, I saw posts regarding keeping tuning secret, it's not a big secret to me, so there it is. I hope people find it useful.
And I have had people install a Gturbo and say "wow it's so great, what a difference", only for me to drive it and think "what a POS". Then I tune it and they are like a kid in a lolly shop with pure bewilderment that this animal all along was lurking under their bonnet waiting to be set free lol. I tell Tim that at Gturbo, if a customer doesn't seem "amazed", then something's not right and we need to look at it.
So, I prefer people to have a clue.
This pin is not a fuel "addition" pin, it's a "removal" pin. Of course in practice it's set to add fuel but mechanically it's setup to remove fuel and only give back under certain conditions.
I mention this because your tuning philosophy (or in engineering terms, "process control strategy"), is the first thing to get right before you pick up a spanner or American screwdriver (that's what we call a hammer here.....
)
And I have had people install a Gturbo and say "wow it's so great, what a difference", only for me to drive it and think "what a POS". Then I tune it and they are like a kid in a lolly shop with pure bewilderment that this animal all along was lurking under their bonnet waiting to be set free lol. I tell Tim that at Gturbo, if a customer doesn't seem "amazed", then something's not right and we need to look at it.
So, I prefer people to have a clue.
This pin is not a fuel "addition" pin, it's a "removal" pin. Of course in practice it's set to add fuel but mechanically it's setup to remove fuel and only give back under certain conditions.
I mention this because your tuning philosophy (or in engineering terms, "process control strategy"), is the first thing to get right before you pick up a spanner or American screwdriver (that's what we call a hammer here.....
)
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Hahaha, after 4 months I have had so many cuts and bruises, I question whether my farmer's hands and rugby player body should be trying to jam itself into the engine bay/under a car at all, even one with as much room as a HZJ75, so definitely an Australian hammer, not good at subtle at all.
One of the reasons I bought a 96 Troopy is that there is still no electronics (as opposed to my 08 Prado - sold) Nothing electrical except 12V and an earth. That leaves these sort of mods within my reach. Trial and error, trial and error, trial and error, improvement, success, aaah.
One of the reasons I bought a 96 Troopy is that there is still no electronics (as opposed to my 08 Prado - sold) Nothing electrical except 12V and an earth. That leaves these sort of mods within my reach. Trial and error, trial and error, trial and error, improvement, success, aaah.
yotahed
Diesel Head
Awesome info and spot on from a pump tuning standpoint.
dadinabarrel.. not sure if your AFR gauge is the same as mine (I have a Innovate MTX-L) but i had to fire up the Programming software and set it to read higher than 22.4 and let it know it was reading diesel. Pretty easy to do, follow the destructions but plug all the cables in first, start software and then turn on the gauge or else it wont sense the gauge is there. Pretty simple from there on
Graeme, 2 questions. When you say pop the aneroid pin out and tune for AFR then; what do you find the best way to load up an auto is? just using the brake pedal and try and hold the revs between 1500 and 2000.
When you say you dont like the AFR below 17:1, is that sustained or is a second or 2 at <17:1 while the turbo spools back up ok? This is on a FT with stock turbo and auto. Such as pulling onto the freeway giving it a boot on the on ramp.
When you say you dont like the AFR below 17:1, is that sustained or is a second or 2 at <17:1 while the turbo spools back up ok? This is on a FT with stock turbo and auto. Such as pulling onto the freeway giving it a boot on the on ramp.
You really need to do one thing first - check the lowest rpm the turbo makes your preset full boost when engine is at full operating temp. If a std ct26 without intercooler, 14psi is safe. If intercooled, 14psi is really on the edge especially on the well breathing 1HDFT.
In any case, pick a number, target that. Set main fuel screw to get your target AFR (suggest 21:1) at that rpm and see what happens to afrs from that rpm to redline. Make sure it doesn't dip below 20:1.
Reinstall pin, set afrs to be no less than 17:1 steady state at the earliest point of lockup (1400rpm~) in 4th.
Then, with a bit of mucking around, following the procedure outlined earlier will result in a great tune that's the highest performance that has a respectable exhaust and be on the higher end of acceptable EGTs.
On the std turbo, there won't be a heap of boost at 1400tpm, so you shouldn't see a huge dip below 17:1 when you stab it.
In any case, pick a number, target that. Set main fuel screw to get your target AFR (suggest 21:1) at that rpm and see what happens to afrs from that rpm to redline. Make sure it doesn't dip below 20:1.
Reinstall pin, set afrs to be no less than 17:1 steady state at the earliest point of lockup (1400rpm~) in 4th.
Then, with a bit of mucking around, following the procedure outlined earlier will result in a great tune that's the highest performance that has a respectable exhaust and be on the higher end of acceptable EGTs.
On the std turbo, there won't be a heap of boost at 1400tpm, so you shouldn't see a huge dip below 17:1 when you stab it.
Thanks Dan, it's just flashing 7.4 at me at the moment. I've got all macs at home so I'm getting my olp HP repaired so I can run the software, that'll be another week or so while we wait for the new display to turn up.
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A tuning question for you Graeme - when tweaking max fuel to be no less than 17:1 steady state at the earliest point of lockup (1400rpm~) in 4th, am I in any real danger of going into runaway? Should I fit a fuel line isolation valve before doing this?
Note: I was chatting to a diesel tuner the other day (trucks) and asked him the same question, his reply was that it is still possible for it to continue to runaway on oil mist if it's getting past rings/valve guide seals and that having a valve may not save me. That sounds a bit theoretical (but also) extreme to me.
That opens up the "block the turbo intake with a sheet of wood scenario", but I would have thought that tuning results would be more real if I had the airbox and snorkel attached giving the correct air intake back pressure.
Can you give me an idea of the likelyhood/danger of how often has this happened to you or others that you know of?
Note: I was chatting to a diesel tuner the other day (trucks) and asked him the same question, his reply was that it is still possible for it to continue to runaway on oil mist if it's getting past rings/valve guide seals and that having a valve may not save me. That sounds a bit theoretical (but also) extreme to me.
That opens up the "block the turbo intake with a sheet of wood scenario", but I would have thought that tuning results would be more real if I had the airbox and snorkel attached giving the correct air intake back pressure.
Can you give me an idea of the likelyhood/danger of how often has this happened to you or others that you know of?
If your not touching whatever idle fuel adjustment there is it wouldn't be a problem would it?
You'd have to be burning a fair amount of oil for the engine to have a chance of a runaway though. Possible from stuffed rings, but also if the pcv setup isn't working properly and is dumping oil into the intake.
I've had an auto truck runaway before...not fun. Had to jump out, lift the cab and put my arm over the intake
You'd have to be burning a fair amount of oil for the engine to have a chance of a runaway though. Possible from stuffed rings, but also if the pcv setup isn't working properly and is dumping oil into the intake.
I've had an auto truck runaway before...not fun. Had to jump out, lift the cab and put my arm over the intake
Could get messy if I had the inlet off and put my arm in front of the turbo lol
I'm going to be tweaking the main fuel up a bit, but rings are sweet (50k) and cranckcase is vented to an external catch can then atmosphere, so it sounds like, that if I'm not greedy, I should be ok.
I'm going to be tweaking the main fuel up a bit, but rings are sweet (50k) and cranckcase is vented to an external catch can then atmosphere, so it sounds like, that if I'm not greedy, I should be ok.
- Thread starter
- #252
you'll be fine. just turn it up a quarter turn at at time and give it a good few revs.
If the revs start hanging up just ease off the screw.
Running 15lbs on my Supra hybrid it was like 1 and a quarter or half turns if I remember correctly for 1200deg F pre turbo.
If the revs start hanging up just ease off the screw.
Running 15lbs on my Supra hybrid it was like 1 and a quarter or half turns if I remember correctly for 1200deg F pre turbo.
Sweet
@ Dadinabarrel
The measurements are taken at full throttle (before kickdown in an auto)
With all due respect, the questions are starting to worry me....
The measurements are taken at full throttle (before kickdown in an auto)
With all due respect, the questions are starting to worry me....
?
Hi guys great reading I'm considering my options looking to go gturbo and have my quotes here waiting on my decisions have a running turboed 1hz in my cruiser at the moment with a leaking pump and no boot compensator and poor tune egt quickly gets to 550 post turbo on hills I have been quoted around $2000 to upgrade it to 12mm and fit compensator
I also have a full 1hdt motor here in bits needing a rebuild and a pump to suit is in unknown condition
Now I can have the 1hdt pump rebuilt to std locally for around $600 leaving part of the money there for a rebuild kit for the hdt motor or can the 1hdt pump with compensator be made work on the 1hz and I can build the hdt motor at later stage thanks ps I'm located near Sydney Australia if anyone recommends workshops
I also have a full 1hdt motor here in bits needing a rebuild and a pump to suit is in unknown condition
Now I can have the 1hdt pump rebuilt to std locally for around $600 leaving part of the money there for a rebuild kit for the hdt motor or can the 1hdt pump with compensator be made work on the 1hz and I can build the hdt motor at later stage thanks ps I'm located near Sydney Australia if anyone recommends workshops
LOL, it won't do that long or often.
Been on for a few years, here it is onroad to 5500rpm
http://vid208.photobucket.com/album...k 2014 July/10152193150052113_zps99521853.mp4
http://vid208.photobucket.com/album...k 2014 July/10152193150052113_zps99521853.mp4
ha ha sounds like one of ateb's pumps. ive been running the original for a few years now, with no issues .
