LJ 78 electrical gremlin (1 Viewer)

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Sep 25, 2012
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Chilliwack BC Canada
Wondering if anyone has had this same issue. After my truck warms up the timing belt light, battery light and turbo light flicker. All the gauges minus the oil pressure seem to work find. Bad ground?
 
Check your charging curcuit, altenator, belts and clean your plug into alt.
While you are at it make sure your battery posts and cable clamps are tight.
Many facilities can load test your system further saving you time and effort.
 
Mine used to do that too and the idiot lights would flicker when going over bumps sometimes. It was a cracked stator inside the Alternator.
 
Here is a quick video of what the truck is doing.LJ 78 electrical issues:

You can see the trans oil temp is coming on under load as well.
 
Sorry to say, but this is exactly what I observed shortly before I had to replace the alternator on my HZJ73.
At first the lights came on for short intervals, but after some days they stayed on.

The alternator was beyond repair, the rotor was damaged.:bang:

Very expensive to replace, but then if this new one is going to last for almost 290k km like the first one, I won't complain.;)
 
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Shoot... Ya I was worried that would be what it was... I guess I should get on sourcing one locally. Or maybe I can find someone who could rebuild mine.
 
So I just pulled my alternator out so I can take it to the shop tommorow for a rebuild I found some extra wires..


Anyone know what the one single wire plus and the 2 cut wires are for?
 
Sorry, not sure about those wires from memory, but could take a look when I get a chance.

Now's the time to drill a hole and mount a pre-turbo EGT probe! I see you have some pretty easy access to the exhaust manifold.
 
I would really appreciate that GTS. I am wondering if those wires are contributing to my warning lights acting up. Like maybe they need to be grounds? Or maybe they are touching together and causing problems. I don't have AC anymore as the PO cut it all out. (kinda wish I had it but now i have a big Volvo inter cooler that will fit just right)

GTS I thought that the Pyro should go post turbo? I have a lot of access to the manifold as I pulled the alt bracket for easier removal. If I should be installing the Pyro Pre turbo then I will for sure drill it now while its all out. (I will also have to go get one.)

On another note. I noticed that when I removed the alternator there was oil in the vacuum lines. Is this normal? I put a vacuum gauge on the other day and it was reading 19-20 at idle so that seems normal.
 
OK, I'm home early today packing for a long weekend trip. I'll take a look and see if I can figure out the wires in a few minutes.

Pyrometer probes can go pre-turbo or post turbo. Pre-turbo is generally accepted as the most accurate, as it is closer to the cylinders. Also, it is hard to say how much the temperature actually drops across the turbo. I've gone post turbo on mine simply for ease of install, but pre turbo is definitely better.

I can't definitely say about the vacuum line oil, but my guess is it is there to lubricate the vacuum pump; probably a good thing! Just do a search here and I'm sure you'll learn more.
 
OK, so the wire right in front of the turbo inlet in your picture is (as someone said) the A/C clutch wire.

The two wires lower down by the exh manifold (in your picture) on mine connect to what looks like the oil pressure sender? near the back bottom of the block, right by the bell housing on the exhaust side of the engine.
 
Ah! So that might be why my oil pressure gauge doesn't work. Ill have to see if I can reconnect those some how. Thank you very much! :)
 
Just got a call from the guy who is rebuilding my alternator, he has located a regulator and is replacing the brushes. $80 all said and done and I can go pick it up today! Hopefully that takes care of my warning lights issue. Ill keep you guys posted...
 
Cool, hope it works out well and your truck is good to go.
 

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