RE: Advice from FJ25 'ers' for my 1964 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[Cruiser_Nerd]

Any tips on removing the Steering Wheel?
Broken two steering wheel pullers so far!!!
Hidden Circlip or just the Nut and Spring Washer?
Applying enormous pressure and it is not budging at all.

No other fasteners. Needs a shock, heat or hit. Heat (propane) then oil cool.......repeat. Old school, a volunteer is needed to sit in seat and pull for all they're worth while you whack the column with a hammer. Protect the threads with a nut and a block of wood or lead. Best case volunteer gets hit in the forehead with the wheel, worst case they get hit in the forehead with the hammer.

 

[andybudge]

Victory!
Technique.............
Steering wheel puller on as tight as possible. With nut on flush with top of column. Soaking wet rags all around head of steering column. Heat shafts and centre of wheel with oxy. Pull on edge of wheel with one hand. Hit puller hard with hammer until puller slacks. Tighten puller again. Repeat above including heating several times. And suddenly it cracked off. Wrecked the puller in the process. But cheaper and easier to replace than steering wheel.
Minimal damage. Just a bit of scorching on inside of steering wheel centre and a very bruised nut. But most importantly no damage to thread

 

[Living in the Past]

No other fasteners. Needs a shock, heat or hit. Heat (propane) then oil cool.......repeat. Old school, a volunteer is needed to sit in seat and pull for all they're worth while you whack the column with a hammer. Protect the threads with a nut and a block of wood or lead. Best case volunteer gets hit in the forehead with the wheel, worst case they get hit in the forehead with the hammer.

Can't remember just how but I was able to pull the old school method myself. Think I used my knees. I have since purchased a couple of Harbor Freight pullers. Never had one not come off. Tighten up to a point you think the puller might break and give the nut on the puller a hard snap with a hammer. The shock is what does the trick. Besides a brass hammer I also have a couple of large brass punches. Punches work great on cone washers.

 

[andybudge]

Little bit of Rust surrounding the Fuel Tank!
............Naked after nearly 50 Years!
Body join behind the Seats mostly corroded.
Most of the Body mounting Bolts corroded (snapped) and the Rubber Mounts all perished! These still available or have to go aftermarket Urethane?
No doubt Sandblasting will uncover some 'surprises'!.

 

[hdjtachtig]

I can confirm the body mounts are still available.

 

[andybudge]

All stripped down and Tub etc off to Blasters this week.
The quest to find parts ( long list ) begins!!

 

[andybudge]

...........no Drum on left front! May explain why it was a handful to drive to storage when first purchased!

 

[nuclearlemon]

the complete lack of shoe material wouldn't have helped

 

[west aussie]

presume the hydraulics were blocked off to that wheel. we typically use a pop rivet for this in the bush. handy thing to have in the lovebox. just place it in any appropriate hardline connection and reconnect. doesnt damage anything and can be removed later. a few old holden utes in my collection only have front brakes.

 

[andybudge]

Yes, that is correct Henry. Clamped Hose to left Front.

 

[andybudge]

Is it possible to get a new VIN Plate? Mine is very worn and not legible.

 

[andybudge]

Wheels turned out really well. Very happy with them in the end. Cost a 'Kings Ransom' with putting new Bands on, Repairs, Blasting Powder Coating etc.
Originality tests the Budget out!
Thanks to 'West Aussie' for the Hub Cap Clips. Much appreciated.

 

[Living in the Past]

Is it possible to get a new VIN Plate? Mine is very worn and not legible.

That is a good question. If the VIN plate is the same as we in the US it shouldn't be a problem. If it's one of the plates installed in Australia I wouldn't have a clue.

Wheels turned out really well. Very happy with them in the end. Cost a 'Kings Ransom' with putting new Bands on, Repairs, Blasting Powder Coating etc.
Originality tests the Budget out!
Thanks to 'West Aussie' for the Hub Cap Clips. Much appreciated.

Not sure what your calling a king's ransom? If those are 15" wheels they are available new from Toyota. Will fit disc and drum brake wheels. Unless you pull them off to see if they are welded or riveted not many could tell the difference. Or earlier riveted wheels are pretty easy to find in the US. But would cost a king's Ransom to ship them.

 

[andybudge]

16" Wheels.
Originally sourced from the other side of Australia. Turned out to be very corroded and requiring extensive repair.
Anyway, all done and they look great.
Just need to source a Spare now?!

 

[west aussie]

sure i be able to locate a spare for you andy. you may need to do another clip shuffle though. not sure about a generator; will have a look. will be a loose unknown quantity if i do turn one up. dan has probably got a bloke who works on this old stuff. there is a rusty but reasonably intact 64 swb in baldwins wrecking yard in smokey bay sa. might be worth a try. i grabbed an original master cylinder, thermostat stuff and horns from it. had a chev carby and no rearview mirror from memory. didnt have a camera. had a starter but i forget the generator situation.

 

[andybudge]

Thanks Henry.
Will contact the Wrecker to see what they have?

 

[andybudge]

Body back from the Sandblasters. A few more surprises than I anticipated!!
Rear Floor and Mid Floor in a sad state, as is the Floor under the Drivers Seat.
LHS Sill repaired so far. Much to do.
Just returned from NYC and while away purchased three replacement panels from Real Steel.
Picking them up from Air Cargo tomorrow. Hopefully they will be worth putting on the 40 as a original looking replacement?

 

[andybudge]

..........Sill; pre and post repair.

 

[cult45]

Nice work Andy. That rim looks the biz! Is it a sign of the standard of the rest of the truck..? And west, please tell more about these 'loveboxes' and where to get one

..have in the lovebox. just place it..

 

[andybudge]

Front Half of Body nearly completed.
Fabrication of new floor to door panel edge piece. New lower door panel skin, new back edge to drivers side floor, reworked and reshaped the new under tank floor and also fabricated a couple of new braces as per original. These have all been welded in and the door panel refitted and spot welded to floor and bulkhead. All exposed areas spot rust treated and etch primed. All new metal etch primed as well and all welds ground back.
Happy New Year to all.