10/84 HJ47 Troopy Refurbish and Build Up (1 Viewer)

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The POR works great when applied properly. You have to make sure you get a good clean scuffed surface for the POR then scuff the POR for the UPol/Rhino/Linex. Never really had a problem with anything sticking to POR. But, if the surface is not clean and scuffed, I've had POR not stick. Done a few cruisers interiors this way. All holding up well.

How well is the Upol holding onto the POR as a base coat? I thought POR was not intended to be top coated, or at least nothing sticks very well to it. Curious to hear your thoughts. Super nice engine swap! Very well done.
 
The 1HZ looks right at home! Looks great... and great job with the swap. Can't wait to hear how she performs now.
 
That is a work of art.
 
Post 117 pic 2.. Exhaust.. did you come back inside the frame shortly afterwards? If so can you show some more of where you hid the exhaust? Trying to noodle in my brain how to miss the PTO and looks it would work similar but other side of the rig for my setup.
 
The exhaust stays on the outside of the frame and exits before the rear tire. It does not dip below the frame rails. Very simple routing and fully removable in sections using SS V-clamps and rings. I think the whole exhaust cost ~$250 shipped. I got the parts from www.siliconintakes.com in Colorado - very good prices on SS.
 
Crew Cab Update!

Been a while since an update, but have been working more-less exclusively on the HJ45 Crew Cab for the last few months. I'm a weekend warrior, so the magic happens on Saturdays and Sundays.

I had replaced the rear upper cab section, but when I stripped the lower section, the rust/rot was too much to repair. So, I cut it all out and welded in new sheet metal. At the same time, I found a complete, rust free, front clip (hood, bib, fenders, etc) from a '63 FJ40. The original front clip has some rust areas to repair, but I just didn't feel like it.

After sheet metal repair was complete, I Upol Raptor lined the interior floors.

Then, I stripped, sanded, and/or blasted all major body parts down to bare metal, individually, and have been epoxy priming and doing body work which is almost complete. I'm working on the last part, the bed.

The goal is to shoot the color soon. I haven't picked a color, yet. Was thinking about Yosemite Yellow, or Capri or Horizontal Blue - but was also considering a red like Seminole red.

:cheers:

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Looks trick!
 
Paint!

I started painting the crew cab in Yosemite Yellow single stage acrylic urethane this past weekend. I'm using Restoration Shop brand from TCP Global (Tri-city Paint) which is just up the road from me. It's a very high quality paint on par with PPG, Valspar, or DuPont but without the inflated cost.
I'm super stoked with the color and it's variability based on the lighting (kind of like "boat-paint"). It's hard to tell what the color is because it changes depending on how the sun and shadows hit the paint.


:cheers:

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Yes, indeed! Looks like you just had some painting fun with your new LPB!
The bed and rest of the parts were painted in the garage.
Disassembled and painted the heater, glove box door, ash tray, and instrument panel. I plan to remove the Aussie bull bar and side bars.

Here are some assembly pics from this weekend. :cheers:

Looks killer Gibran, cant wait to see the final assembly, you shooting that outside?

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As usual; looking great!
 
Beautiful mate. You wield a gun pretty nicely.
 
wow! :clap:

keep the pics coming!
 
Thanks guys! Been working on rebuilding the roof out of metal, weather stripped all door windows, and finalized the rear windows. I hope to get it to the glass shop next week.

For the roof, I built a mounting frame out of 16g angle and a skeleton out of 1/4" rod. I used the old fiberglass top as a guide. My plan is to skin the top with 18g sheet metal.

For the rear windows, I ended up taking some vent window frames and opening them up to fit the opening. One of the pics shows how far the window will roll down, the other portion of the opening will be fixed.

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