Nice work as always, just about ready to roll!
Builds Introducing Oliver (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mr jits
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Yeah, it'll be snug inside, but there's no way I'd want to wheel here in winter without it.
After watching you and Brittney soaked to the bone I have no desire to be without a top except in summer.
Yeah, I have a line on a HT but I'm worried about the extra weight. My 40 is pretty softly sprung!
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- #84
I'm going to play around with overloads on my springs a bit to compensate for the weight. Dakota overloads are cheap so worth it.
Right now with zero extra weight (besides inclusion of the new cage) my front springs are dead flat and the rear are close to the same.
I know I could get it to sit level, I am worried about it being top heavy wheeling... I do prefer the way 40's look with a hardtop but I will probably stick to a Bestop.
What about airbags? You could customize the ride height at a moments notice, even on the trail as long as you had some kind of air supply. I'm not used to reading/hearing about them on off-road rigs, but they are very useful on pickups.
Don
Don
- Thread starter
- #87
I was able to weld up the front and rear trusses along with the rear antiwrap mount (RockTactics integrated into the truss).
I didn't have the opportunity to pretty the up as I killed my grinder, but I'm providing a pic anyhow.
I also fabbed up a quick front armor piece for the ring gear using the front of an axle housing and some 2x1/4 scrap.
I didn't have the opportunity to pretty the up as I killed my grinder, but I'm providing a pic anyhow.
I also fabbed up a quick front armor piece for the ring gear using the front of an axle housing and some 2x1/4 scrap.
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- #88
I tossed around the airbag idea a bit, but decided on leafs. Once I have the leafs sorted they should work really well for my purpose (I'm not the first to run my spring setup).
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- #89
Welded in the upper shock mounts and tried to finish up the rear truss. Still a bit to go on the rear but things are moving along nicely.
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- #90
Front bumper, sliders, front axle, rear axle and some miscellaneous stuff done. I need to complete the rear antiwrap bar, rear brakes, drive shafts, and route the brake lines to finish it up.
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- #91
Cage is pretty much done. I'm waiting on some tabs for the seatbelts, but can weld those on anytime so I decided to paint it and get it ready to be bolted on for good.
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- #92
Put the tires on so I could get the jacks out from underneath and not be terrified of the thing falling on someone.
I measured 24" exactly under the sliders.
I'm loving the stance.
I measured 24" exactly under the sliders.
I'm loving the stance.
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- #93
So I got to playing with the front DS knuckle, because I didn't like the feel of things when I put it together last night. I ended up messing with the shims to get a better alignment and knuckle feel, but nothing worked. I then noticed that the birf stub was not centered in the spindle. I proceeded to take the spindle off and found the spindle bushing to be seriously worn and some wear in the spindle itself. I don't have the extra $$ to be getting new spindles at the moment, but plan to replace the bushing tomorrow if Toyota has it in stock. Part #90999-70067 for those interested.
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- #94
Here's what the interior of a spindle looks like after being run on a worn bushing. Obviously some foreign material must have gotten into the spindle as well to cause the grooving. Also there's a pic with the new bushing installed.
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- #95
In case a person has never done the bushing replacement before, know that you often have to remove some material off of the bushing to get the axle to fit. I just used a drill and a small sandpaper hone to remove material to get the axle to fit snugly.
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- #96
Built a square tube shaft for the front driveline but found the angle to be a bit steep for the smaller 40 series u joints and have some worries about binding at full droop.
That led me to doing a bit of searching and I found that the moog part # for the early FJ40 u joints is the same as the dodge dakota u joints used on the dodge front dual cv driveshaft. Tomorrow I'll head to u-pull it and grab one and use the dual cv head. Problem solved.
That led me to doing a bit of searching and I found that the moog part # for the early FJ40 u joints is the same as the dodge dakota u joints used on the dodge front dual cv driveshaft. Tomorrow I'll head to u-pull it and grab one and use the dual cv head. Problem solved.
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- #97
It looks like when the original V8 swap was done on this back in the 70's that there was some interference with the front tc flange and the transmission pan. The installers solution was to cut down the flange and use a very small flange and u-joint in its place for clearance.
I'll be reinstalling a stock flange and clearancing the pan while also adding the high angle dual cv setup.
I'll be reinstalling a stock flange and clearancing the pan while also adding the high angle dual cv setup.
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- #98
Stock 40 rear shaft next to a dodge dakota front shaft. Interchangeable u-joints according to spicer and moog.
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- #99
So I was removing the front TC flange yesterday (serious pain in the ass) and got to thinking. How long is the early transfer case going to live under my truck? I plan on running an atlas, but that's about a year off and I want the transfer case to make it until then.
How long the transfer case will live will depend only on how hard you are on the skinny pedal
Love the truck, keep it up!
Love the truck, keep it up!