Just bought my first FJ60: Bad Compression (1 Viewer)

[Ishtvan47]

I just bought my first LandCruiser, an '85 FJ60 with 119,000 miles. The truck idles a little rough with a strong smell of raw fuel under acceleration. I had a compression test done (1= 140, 2=120, 3= 121, 4=120, 5=118, 6=150). The mechanic immediately suggested a total rebuild. Yikes!

My first question is, #1) is this horrible compression for a 30-year old FJ? #2) If it's pretty much asymptomatic, should I do anything about it immediately? #3) I think the carb is running rich--hence the strong raw gas smell--but have no clue about how to adjust/rebuild one. The mechanic I took it to, Glendora Import Specialists (recommended by this group), wouldn't touch the carb, and suggested a guy in Upland, CA (Mr. Carburetor) who's now out of business.

Should I just buy a rebuilt carb from FJ40Jim at TLC Performance, or TLC4X4 in Van Nays? Or can a local carb mechanic work on these and get me up and running again.

Also, I may not be passing smog. Hard to tell with the carb out of whack. I've done some searching on this forum but couldn't find a thread about chasing California emissions. Any advice there?

Thanks in advance!

FJ60 newbee

 

[WHG423]

Do it right the first time.
Absolutely go to Jim C. At TLC performance for your carb rebuild!
Top notch.

Do that first. A lot cheaper than a rebuild. See if that solves your problems. It likely will as far as running rich, rough idol.

I am no expert on the compression issue though. Good luck!

 

[klinetime574]

I agree with a carb rebuild. Also check vacuum lines for leaks.

Before removing the carb, adjust the valves, check the timing, and then re-do a compression test. Those numbers kinda just look like it needs a valve adjustment. I'm no expert, but have that done first

 

[enfield]

Those numbers aren't bad. Get the carb, timing and valves adjusted, also a full tune up.

 

[gregnash]

I agree with @klinetime574 , do those maintenance items first and then have the compression redone. The compression is not horrible but will probably lead to you not being able to pass smog. Also, CARB states that if a vehicle is purchased in California for residency in California that the SELLER is responsible for all emissions testing (on applicable vehicle). So if the truck doesnt pass, then it is the sellers responsibility for any costs incurred to get it to pass. Clearly states this on the DMV and CARB websites in plain english.

 

[Ishtvan47]

Thanks you guys. This is really helpful. I'll drop Jim a call/email today about the carb.

Regarding the valve timing, the mechanic did a wet compression test (never heard of it), which was suppose to isolate the bottom end of the block from the valves to determine if it was just timing or the rings. Turns out everything went to 150 with that test which, they told me, means it needs a rebuild and that the valves are fine. Hmmm. Still, it's running plenty strong. I just don't like smelling like a gas pump every time I pull into the driveway. I imagine that can't be good for my MPG either. Hope fixing the carb corrects the emissions issues as well.

Also, thanks for the advise on the CARB law. I'm going to be reaching out to the owner shortly about that too. Won't he be excited.

 

[Spike Strip]

You should really take the truck to someone who knows them. The numbers on the compression are a little low, but run a 20-50wt oil and it should help somewhat, and is significantly cheaper than a rebuild.... Besides if it feels like it's running strong, then don't mess with the block.

If you are in Claremont, it would be worth your drive to take the truck to Mark's Off Road in Burbank, particularly for the carb rebuild and valve adjustment. He does the adjustment like no one else I've seen. All he works on are carb'd Land Cruisers.

marksoffroad.net
818-953-9230

 

[Ishtvan47]

Thanks Spike Strip (and everyone else). I hadn't even found Mark yet. Hopefully he's not too swamped to get back to me. I just sent you a separate PM on another subject.