Emergency break stuck (1 Viewer)

[MslaFJ55]

After a year of sitting I started up my pig to take it for a spin. I released the e brake and put it in reverse and... No movement. More gas= slow movement and grinding noise in e brake. So how do I fix it? Sorry if this is a previously posted question.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[scrapdaddy]

Just my 2 cents, but I think it's time for a rebuild. Take it apart, clean and rebuild the cylinder. Something is rusted up. My money is on the brake cylinder.

 

[Gumby]

There isn't a cylinder on the ebrake. Could be the cable. Could be the mechanism. Could very likely just be the shoes stuck to the drum. I'd start with a couple of good raps to the drum with a percussive adjustment tool. Look at the cable end where it attaches to the handle. Is it moving with the handle movement? If it is the shoes are stuck. A couple more whacks with a hammer and some rocking back and forth. If the cable is not moving try some penetrating oil down the cable. You might have to get in the adjustment hole in the back of the drum and try to de adjust enough to get the drum off.

A grinding noise could also mean the shoes have delaminated. The friction material has separated from the shoe. You might be able to get the drum off with some effort if that's the case. Again rocking back and forth might un wedge the chunks of friction material.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Oh, that's right. I was thinking about what I have on the 60 axle.

 

[npulver]

This happened to me when it was below zero out here this winter. I drove it around the block (small block) to let the pads and everything heat up. Once i pulled back in the garage i tapped the drum with a rubber mallet and it released.

Im guessing when you pull your brake handle in and out, it has almost zero tension. Thats how mine felt, pads were stuck to the drum.

BTW. if you roll under your pig without the parking brake set, please chalk the tires.

P.S. It kinda sounds like your brake shoes are shot. Im with Ron, i would recommend rebuilding it asap.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Confession time. It hit me while feeding the goats. I was trying to say "Bellcrank" not the wheel cylinder. On 60's that lever corrodes with salt and water. Anytime you start having those type problems, it is time to get greasy.

They say confusion and memory loss are the second things to go, when getting old. Thank God I skipped the first!

 

[Pighead]

Agree with Gumby, but I would lube the cable then apply percussion to the brake drum. Also, you're going to have a hard time pulling that drum if the shoes are stuck to it...

 

[MslaFJ55]

Thanks for the info. I'm going to get started on it tomorrow.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[MslaFJ55]

I just remembered also that the last thing I did last fall was replace the slave cylinder. I wonder if there is an anchor point for the cable near there that I undid to access the slave and then forgot to reattach it. That would cause the same problem wouldn't it?


...via IH8MUD app

 

[PabloCruise]

If you removed the anchor point for the cable, I would think the park brake would not engage.

Unless you somehow kept tension on the cable some other way...

 

[MslaFJ55]

Follow up:
Here is a hint. If there has been a front disc conversion and you put your spare on, make sure the wheel fits. I bolted down the spare, put it in first gave it gas and the grinding noise was actually the wheel scraping the outer edge of the brake calliper. placed the spare on the rear, put the rear wheel on the front. Put it in first and drove away without problems. Much easier fix then had it really been the e-brake.

 

[PabloCruise]

Ugh...

Yes, the steel wheels for drum brake will not fit over disc calipers!