New ARB Locker Won't (1 Viewer)

[AimCOtaco]

Long Story Short:
I had an ARB installed in the front housing of my 100 by a top notch gear shop.

Drove around with the new strengthened carrier for about a year and a half now.

Finally got around to doing OBA and locker actuation ahead of Cruise Moab.

OBA is finished and delivering pressure to the locker but it won't lock.

Any easy fixes? I'm thinking oil has been seeping past the o-rings all this time and that is causing the issue? After being installed without air for 1.5 years what could have happened? I do trust that it worked when the 3rd left the shop.

I've been thinking of trying to get it good and warmed up and keep the pressure on it but what else can I do before a tear down? I don't know if I can get away with a tear down this close to CM.

Thanks!

 

[reddingcruiser]

Is the compressor kicking on and off, as in leaking? The front axle is the biggest pain because you can't see the internal copper tube once the third member is installed. Several problems come to mind.

• The internal seals are leaking on the ARB - not likely if it's new.
• Rust from condensation - possible, but
• The copper line got pinched/kinked - possible.
• The copper line got shifted and the ring gear wore a hole in it - possible.
• There is blockage in the line between the compressor and the ARB - common.
• The air solenoid is defective - I've had this one.

If you have a test valve with a gauge (like in the ARB instructions) at least you'll know if the ARB is holding pressure like it's supposed too, and if the problem is at the ARB or compressor.

 

[Bret]

I would check the solenoid, if you had a significant leak you might be able to hear it, but you would hear the compressor cycle with the pressure drop you would get. Make sure the solenoids being told to turn on, might just be electrical.

 

[AimCOtaco]

I got it working!

The center compression section had pushed the tubing into the housing and crushed the o-ring instead of sliding over the tubing and compression sealing the o-ring. I was able to back out the copper tube by slipping a round punch inside and pulling it out. I de-burred the end of the tube and then replaced the o-ring with something close enough for testing and it locked right up on the first try.

I don't understand what about the design keeps the tube from backing into the diff on assembly or through thermal creep. At least I was able to fix it without a full tear down....

Thanks for all the input as always,

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

Nice detective work Andy!