Thoughts on sound deadener for roof? (1 Viewer)

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tone33

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Spring Hill, TN
So I have my headliner down... And I have all that factory carpet padding like stuff on the inside roof. I have some cruisercrap quietcrap left over from when I sound deadened the floor. If I replace the factory padding w/quietcrap will i notice a difference? Has anyone sound deadened their roof with this or a similar product and achieved any significant decrease in cabin noise? (not that it's terribly loud in the first place..)
 
Personally I wouldn't do it for sound deadening. I would use an insulated material instead for summer heat.
 
Thermozite carpet padding is a spun polyester with an aluminum foil sheet, comes in two versions, foil on one side or both sides.
 
I'm in process of doing Dynamat in the truck now along with Dynaliner. One thing I had was a vibration / rattle above the headliner and found that the factory adhesive was brittle and cracked causing the roof material to vibrate against the cross members.

When you would strike the roof with your hand the entire section was like a tin can rattling. To fix this I cleaned out the old adhesive parts and then cut strips of the heavy duty felt that you use on the bottom of furniture for hard wood floor protection. This stuff is inexpensive and has a very high compression resistance. Shim the cross sections and no more vibration.

Then I went and applied the Dynamat and added foam to any plug ends and also secured the wiring up to prevent any unwanted noise. You'll notice the felt shims going across the roof in the picture below.

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Wow. I want to do that!
 
I used dynamat and fat mat on my doors and it made a huge difference. I plan to do the floors eventually as well. IMO, I would not go through the trouble to dynamat the roof IF I did not already have the headliner removed. IMO, since you already have it down, spending a few hours to lay some dynamat is a good use of your time right now. For me, I would not pull the headliner just to do the dynamat but if you have it down anyhow, why not?
 
Dynamat is really useful on the roof to block out the sound of blackhawk heli's flying above you!! Thats why I put it in mine!!!:idea: Not to mention to deaden the sound of Zombies jumping on your rooftop in the event of an attack!!:flipoff2:
 
I've done every panel in the truck with FattMatt and the flat surfaces with a dampner matt - the headliner / roof is the next step once I get my new seats in...... but so far it's truly a Huge difference - the last noises and rattles I hjear are all in the roof or pillars...... just ordered up another 50 sf of fatt matt...... that'll make over 250 sf in the truck but it's worth every damn cut finger....

has anyone done suede on a headliner before ? I know someone did vinyl.....
 
Thanks for all the replies. Not sure which way I'll go yet... Thermozite looks interesting. Sound deadening is priority over heat protection though. Maybe I could cover small sections of the roof with sound deadener to kill any vibrations and larger swaths with thermozite...

Thermozite carpet padding is a spun polyester with an aluminum foil sheet, comes in two versions, foil on one side or both sides.
 
has anyone done suede on a headliner before ? I know someone did vinyl.....

Yes treerootCo has lined his headliner with suede, he has a thread on here.
 
thanks - I knew someone had.... now to find it...
 
The Thermozite makes things quieter also, stuffed one layer under the front carpet, less heat, noise, and vibration transmitted into the cabin from the floor.
 
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I did the whole truck.... Roof was Dynamat, Dynaliner, painted roof white to keep down heat and Marine vinyl... i ended up removing the sunroof to get the area covered by the sunroof tray

Floors..Dynamat and Dynaliner
Doors... inside of outer skin and inside panel...Fatmat..Rattle Trap Extreme and Second Skin Spectrum sound Deadener

Bank vault tight and quiet...and cool in the summer
 
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how hard is it to drop the headliner? never done it......
95-95 is easy because it's one piece. I had to take care of the nutserts after the roof rack was removed. As you start removing the pillar covers and oh s*** and led it all comes out pretty easily. It was an easier job than expected. In hind sight I would have covered it in Alcantara (microfiber) and done all the heat/noise stuff but maybe next time.
 
Thermozite looks interesting. Sound deadening is priority over heat protection though.

Most of the sound deadening benefit comes from eliminating road noise i.e. down low (unless you have a noisy roof rack). For the roof use something like CLD tiles for resonance, and a thermal barrier to keep the temps down. I used some CLD tiles and a layer of CCF and it seems to make a difference. That Thermozite looks interesting, I may use that next time I drop the headliner. Problem with radiant barriers is that they need an air gap for best efficiency (think home attic). Between the headliner and roof there's just not much gap.
 
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How did you guys deal with the adhesive residue after removing the factory insulation from the roof? Were you able to remove it all or did you simply install the dynamat over it?

3M makes a adhesive remover wheel for lower speeds like a cordless drill (might be speed rated for grinder, I forget) - but it really is meant for external adhesive remove where you want slow/low to save the paint.
If you go looking, I want to say mine was bright yellow, some $25 or so.

If you can find them, we got rubber wheels in the refinery that had walnut shell -
(or some nut-shell in it, the newer labeled boxes carried a nut allergy warning :rolleyes: :rolleyes: -things too weird to be made up)-

Our use was for gasket material removal where we used Weldwood glue to temp hold the gasket in place while we would rattlegun the bolts for manway ports.

The rubber ones really try to “grab” - I saw plenty of guys overheat one & it tried to run away from them.
 
We have been using Second Skin Spectrum in our builds on the roofs....it's light, it's a sound deadener and it has thermal insulation properties. GREAT stuff and easy to use as it can be brushed, rolled, sprayed, whatever you want. 3mm is ideal as a total thickness so we try to use Second Skins Damplifier Pro then about 1mm of Spectrum on top of it. It's worth doing. Put some butyl adhesive in between your roof supports and the roof skin while you are in there.

I can't say enough about how good Second Skin is for both products and tech advice. Those guys know how to do it.
 

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