What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (30 Viewers)

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OME 2.5 light/medium lift (860 springs) with the Slee diff drop. 2+ inches doesn't sound like a lot, but boy does it feel higher. Can't wait to take her wheeling to see how she handles.

Finally had time to go put the final tweaks on the t-bars. Now I'm sitting 22 3/4" (center of hub to fender) in the rear and 21 3/4" (center of hub to fender) up front. So, that's a nice 1 inch rake with 2" of droop (50.8mm).

Also raised the spare up about 1 1/4"...

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I put a bunch of stuff up on the roof to get ready for our spring break camping trip tour of the northeast next week. Need to buy a roof rack!

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Our trip will includes lots of visits to gas stations!
 
I finally picked up my 100 from having the new diffs with 4.88's and TJM lockers installed, also did brakes all the way around and new cv axles. Now I just have to break in the diffs before Cruise Moab.
 
I put a bunch of stuff up on the roof to get ready for our spring break camping trip tour of the northeast next week. Need to buy a roof rack!

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Our trip will includes lots of visits to gas stations!
You'll be surprised that adding stuff to the roof doesn't change the MPGs all that much. You'd be visiting them anyway!
 
That's good to hear. It's been a slow progression from midteens to teens to low teens. Afraid we may be just into double digits on this trip!
 
I bought the steel to build my sliders, also i put a little money aside for the ome rear springs and shocks.
 
Hit a milestone this morning...
I'm 1/5 of the way there!!! ;)

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Also adjusted my torsion bars last night. Picked up a 30mm Kobalt socket at Lowes for $6.00. Got rid of most of my sagging left rear lean. Before I started I had a 1" lower measurement in the left rear compared to the right rear. The front is dang close to level with an approximate 1" rake. Still have a 1/4" lower left rear, but I can live with that for a while. If anyone has any suggestions on how to eliminate the 1/4" difference, I'll give it a try.

Thanks to all the MUD members for helping give me confidence to work on my truck, even the minor stuff like torsion bars. This is a great forum. :beer:
 
I put the first 200 gentle miles on my new diffs. (Following the recommended heating and cooling cycles per JTS' with the first two hot/cold cycles being 15 miles of easy driving and then 3+ hours to cool down.) I changed the gear oil already as well. I plan to change it again at 500 miles but I figure that an extra change in between won't hurt and could only help.

I found out that the ARB wiring harness, which comes with the ARB compressor has the air locker solenoid wiring opposite of what TJM uses. I had to remove the terminals from the connectors for each pigtail on the ARB harness and swap the wires. I kept checking and re-checking my switch wiring thinking I can't follow color coding. On a hunch, I made two jumpers and connected the wires in the opposite positions inside the terminal and hssssss air came out of the solenoid. Later today or tomorrow am I have to run the plastic air lines from the rubber hoses that come out of the TJM locker fittings to the compressor and solenoids which are mounted behind the passengers side fog light.

I also discovered through this process that ARB, defaults to one locker having to be engaged in order to engage the second one like a Factory Toyota dial. (The ARB switches are a temporary solution until I can wire up the 80 series dial and install a micro toggle switch inline with the rear output wire from the 80 switch and use it to connect or disconnect the rear locker while leaving the front locker engaged. I will get to this after Cruise Moab.)
 
Lift time! Bilstein long travels all round, Lovells springs and Polyair bags in the rear, diff drop, control arm strengthening brackets welded in and Iron Man torsion bars in the front. I did the rears in my driveway, managed to get access to a hoist to do the fronts, so that made it a bit easier.
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Sits a lot nicer, rears are quite stiff, should work well when loaded up.
Also modified the wiring for the front map lights so that they come on when the interior light comes on. A couple of diodes and some soldering, easy job.
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And pulled the combination meter to chase the wiring and install light fittings for the unused warning lights. Will be using the factory front and rear diff lock lights, and the fog and spot light warning lights. Also put a LED in the ignition key illumination :)
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...via IH8MUD app
 
Timing belt, water pump and 120k service and bought some LEDs for the interior lights
 
Picked up my new to me 2001 LX470, gassed it up and drove 1000 miles home. It ran so nice! It was a babied single owner with 54k miles, 60k service done and water pump/timing belt too! Wife likes it but does want it to look like my 80 I just sold... Decisions, decisions!
 
At least you got a bunch of floor jacks from the deal.
 
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I'm doing this very mod today - what did you run your power source from?

The power source you need is actually a switched earth, the lights have +12v all the time.
The loom going to the centre interior light runs straight past the map lights


And a mud map


The hilighted part is the wiring and diodes to be installed. Note the diodes need to be put in 'backwards' as you're introducing another earth supply to the lights. If you don't put the diodes in, if you went to turn on a single map light, both map lights and the interior light would turn on.
 
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Mounted my Magma Kettle 2 Grill to my Slee rearswing-out. Ready for Cruise Moab!
 

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