Does the e-brake cable wear out? (1 Viewer)

[Mr Cimarron]

I need to adjust mine but it appears as this is different than any other PB I've ever dealt with. PB pads are good w/new rotors. Takes 12+ clicks before mine will lock the tires solid on a ~25* driveway. Do I start w/the handle adjustment? I have no idea how to do it inside the rotor/axle end of it.

If your rotors are on correctly you can access the star wheel from the access hole in the rotor. Use a flat head to push the star wheel. If your rotor is on incorrectly you will have to take the rotor off and then will see how the star wheel works.
I usually adjust till the drums stop the wheel from turning then back it off a couple clicks on the star wheel.

 

[jonheld]

If your rotors are on correctly you can access the star wheel from the access hole in the rotor. Use a flat head to push the star wheel. If your rotor is on incorrectly you will have to take the rotor off and then will see how the star wheel works.

What do you mean by correctly or incorrectly? If the hole isn't on the bottom, rotate the wheel. The procedure is clearly outlined in the FSM.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

What do you mean by correctly or incorrectly? If the hole isn't on the bottom, rotate the wheel. The procedure is clearly outlined in the FSM.

Yes that is what I meant but the rotor has to be on correctly for access. Rotating the wheel will not give you access to the star wheel if on wrong.

 

[LFD2037]

Yes that is what I meant but the rotor has to be on correctly for access. Rotating the wheel will not give you access to the star wheel if on wrong.

If you rotate the wheel then it'll line up w/the star. Doesn't matter what the installed location of the hole as it will change as soon as it's rotated. I see where you're coming from but it WILL line up, no matter what the installed location, when you rotate the assembly. Rotor doesn't have to be removed.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

It's the hub an hour glass shape behind the rotor? I still want to say if the rotor is put on wrong it puts the hole out of whack. But you guys are probably looking at it so I will say your right. I'm at work just thinking some through in my mind.

 

[jonheld]

Yes that is what I meant but the rotor has to be on correctly for access. Rotating the wheel will not give you access to the star wheel if on wrong.

Uhhhh...wha?
The rotor goes round and round, just like the wheels on the bus. The access hole is in the rotor.
I really have no idea what you're talking about.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Ok I figured out my failure of knowledge just now. I had to go out to the part truck to see what's what. I confused the one hole on the hub for the access hole. Previously I had my rotor on with that hole lined up with one of the two holes on the rotor that are used to push the rotor off. With this you will bind the rotor since you can only push from one side. Make for a hell of time getting off a stuck rotor.
Sorry for confusing everyone.

 

[MarkM]

Yes, I am reviving an old thread. Haven't been able to find too many threads on this with pictures, so rather than start another I will just update this one.

I will be replacing my cable tomorrow if I have the time. I replaced all of the hardware, shoes, rotors/drums, and even with the adjuster backed all of the way off, I am having a helluva time adjusting the brakes and making them usable.

The right side has more tension on it than the left, even when everything that can be adjusted is. I have cleaned up the pivot point on the rear part of the cable, and while it made it move better it didn't solve the problem.

I live in NJ, and while it isn't corroded to hell, the springs are rusted to the point where I don't think they are providing the tension that they should to return the spring when the PB is not engaged.

Like an idiot, I forgot the adjust the bellcrank after replacing the hardware, and I was dragging the RR long enough to warp the rotor, and I think the hub. Ordered a replacement and plan to switch it tomorrow as well.

I'll try to take some pictures and update.

 

[Hornd]

Looking on rockauto they have two listings. One says front and one says front rear but doesn't have a photo. I wonder if they give you everything you need ? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=303550&cc=1276703&jnid=494&jpid=0

I bought the RockAuto Throttle cable and wasted a ton of time and effort.
Ended up spending $10 to send it back and will never recoup the time I wasted before getting a new OEM throttle cable.
Cable was simply too short.
Either way let us know how it works out.

 

[math]

For whatever it's worth, I couldn't get the star nut with the screwdriver. So my adjustment process was to widen the shoes with the brake rotor OFF, until I could just barely get the rotor on. Then I backed it off slightly. My parking brake will lock those rear tires if I look at it funny, it's very effective. I don't know what the long term effects of this may be, but hey, if it breaks and we die screaming down a mountain pass, at least our deaths were cool.

 

[Clint0511]

I used to design these cables... They do stretch out over time. If your in an area with lots of mountains, the outer sheath will compress, and the inner will stretch out. We designed them for 50k miles in the early 90s, 100k from mid 90s to late 2000s... The brake mechanism itself is probably in awesome shape is the main rivet hasn't budged.

 

[half k cruiser]

When I finally fixed mine a few weeks back I worked from the rotor, back trhough the system. Pads, new springs, extended dog bones from @orangefj45 , new bell cranks, pins, etc. The cable does have a bit of stretch to it, but I can stop the vehicle on a hill with the hand brake.

 

[OG 91 LC]

@half k cruiser Where are 'em pics. I'm a visual learner.

 

[half k cruiser]

@half k cruiser Where are 'em pics. I'm a visual learner.

I will post some hopefully sunday if I can get them uploaded. Have quite a few updates but the website hasn't been liking the cut of my gib lately and I can't get them to load.