Redgrrr
I have a problem with 40s
I think Jason's version fits his tube chassis only they look like a 40 hood but the dimensions are different and won't fit a standard 40 body.
Builds Fj40 re-rebuild! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 74fj40
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I think Jason's version fits his tube chassis only they look like a 40 hood but the dimensions are different and won't fit a standard 40 body.
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- #22
Something followed me back to work today
That will speed things up a bit! So are you still using the XJ leafs in the rear or something else?
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- #24
Definitely will. I spent the whole day contemplating links. I think the next go around will be links. This time I'll stick with xj leafs. They worked fairly well.
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40Wanted
SILVER Star
Looking forward to watching your progress!
As far as the rear 1/4 armor goes, BudBuilt is usually open to requests and can do different cuts, just give them a call or email.
I had him build me a set 14 inches longer than stock with no cut out because I'm stretching the tub and rear suspension. Once I get my suspension in a final location I'll use my plasma for the cut outs.
As far as the rear 1/4 armor goes, BudBuilt is usually open to requests and can do different cuts, just give them a call or email.
I had him build me a set 14 inches longer than stock with no cut out because I'm stretching the tub and rear suspension. Once I get my suspension in a final location I'll use my plasma for the cut outs.
How much extra did you have to pay to get the quarter like that?
40Wanted
SILVER Star
It was an extra $50.00 for the extra length with no cutouts.
Freight shipping to a business address in TX was $104.
Here's my favorite comp cut. I've showed u this b4...
Finally back on the road/trail after 5 years...
Finally back on the road/trail after 5 years...
That's not bad at all.
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- #30
Not too much to update, got the old rear axle out, torn down and into the bed of my truck.
I had a line on an arb for free (pilfered from my brothers project)but it fell through. Since I'm on a budget just like everyone else, I'll stick with the Detroit that I have currently.
Since I'm here I may cut the booger welded bumper off and build a new one with about the last 12" of frame. Considering using all tube for frame and bumper, any insight?
I had a line on an arb for free (pilfered from my brothers project)but it fell through. Since I'm on a budget just like everyone else, I'll stick with the Detroit that I have currently.
Since I'm here I may cut the booger welded bumper off and build a new one with about the last 12" of frame. Considering using all tube for frame and bumper, any insight?
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- #31
Pulling the c-clips out off the shafts with that detroit was an excellent reminded of why we all hate c-clips.
lol @ c-clips, this is why we use one-tons 
I would like to add to the previous in progress version picture list.
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- #34
So glad I repainted the bezel white.
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- #35
Not too much to update so far this week, the transfercase in my duramax took a s***...again. I had a shop build me a new one less than a year ago. Seems to be better now. We'll see.
I have managed to get some small things done on my lunch break. Got a master overhaul kits ordered up for the diff. Hoping to have the axle fully assembled by friday.
I've also found that these Alan head bolts seem to loosen up on ARBs, so as a precaution I cleaned them and lock tighted them as needed.
Also, got the housing cleaned up nicely and gave it a healthy coating of weld thru primer. Never used it before and wanted to give it a try!
And lastly, got the backing plates bolted on. Over the time I've spent working on my cruiser, I'm constantly finding loose bolts that should never be loose. So this time around I've become obsessed with cleaning oil off the bolts and lock tighting them. Hopefully this doesn't screw me on a trail repair
I have managed to get some small things done on my lunch break. Got a master overhaul kits ordered up for the diff. Hoping to have the axle fully assembled by friday.
I've also found that these Alan head bolts seem to loosen up on ARBs, so as a precaution I cleaned them and lock tighted them as needed.
Also, got the housing cleaned up nicely and gave it a healthy coating of weld thru primer. Never used it before and wanted to give it a try!
And lastly, got the backing plates bolted on. Over the time I've spent working on my cruiser, I'm constantly finding loose bolts that should never be loose. So this time around I've become obsessed with cleaning oil off the bolts and lock tighting them. Hopefully this doesn't screw me on a trail repair
Weld thru primer? Ive heard of this legendary stuff. Where do you get it? What does it look like? In a aerosol can? How much is it? Axle is looking good. What are you going to do for shock mounts?
- Thread starter
- #37
It's a 3M product, comes in a purple can. It's great for welding scab plates on. Supposedly it's kind of expensive, I just used left overs from around the shop.
I have some double sheer mounts for the lower and a set of f250 mounts for the uppers in the rear. I wanted to outboard the shocks as much as possible as well as keep them nice and vertical so I can get the most out of them.
- Thread starter
- #38
Here's the project for my lunch break.
U get your third member together? How does the Detroit compare to a lock right or Aussie locker on the trail? I've never used a Detroit before. Always heard they are bulletproof though.
Basically the same as a lock right or aussie in function. But will last longer. I have actually heard of more failures in Detroit due to chromoly.axles letting go than aussie lockers.
I still run a detroit in the front of my 40 though.
I still run a detroit in the front of my 40 though.
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