Die frozen and stripped exhaust manifold stud. Die! (1 Viewer)

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LCyal8r

Jetty Crue
Joined
Jan 19, 2015
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101
Location
NEPA
Had an exhaust leak at the manifold where the idiots who did my exhaust installation didn't put in a gasket. No problem. Loosen the nuts, drop in fresh gaskets and tighten her back up. A little pb blast, a little elbow grease, easy. Obviously with a rig in pa that gets used it was rusted. Seized even. Got the nut off, but stripped the atud in doing so. We tried for a couple days, letting the pb set in, not using too much torque, etc. It just stripped. So then we tried to remove the stud. No dice. 1010mm stud extractor too big and didn't grip. 8mm too small. Dammit! We were going to weld a nut to the stud and try to remove it that way. Ended up using an exhaust stud clamp. But I had to grind off the end of the stud to make it grab onto the exhaust itself and not the stud. The Sonofabitch doesn't leak, but it looks like Frankenstein monster. I've heard these hold really well, but I'm nervous long term.
 
I had to take my manifolds off and take them to a machine shop to get my stripped studs out . Good job doing it on the truck
 
We were considering tapping the stud, but . . . . . .that was fraught with peril. I was incredibly pissed for a couple days, and in a bit dubious of the clamp, but all my research points to them being very effective.

Now I just need to get into the abs delete and I should be done for a while.
 
Wait till you go do your shocks, break the bleeders off, or try to remove a tie rod end
With trucks 20 yrs old and living in the rust everything on underside that gets worked on pretty much needs replaced.
 
I got pretty lucky on shocks. I did snap one of the bolts on the steering stabilizer bracket that had to be tapped, but that was my own stupidity as a newbie shade tree mechanic. I'm much more patient and I use pb blast everywhere now.

I love the Damn rig. I keep saying I'm gonna get a qx56 when the next big problem happens, but. . . . . it never happens.
 
Funny, when I took my manifold off, half of the studs turned right out instead of the nut :p
 
For rusted stuff I've had better luck with CRC's (also sold under the K&W brand) Knock'Er Loose. I have found it dissolves the rust better and penetrates better than PB Blaster. PB Blaster is a good product but I've started to use it only for bolts/nuts that have galled up threads as the oil in it lubricates better for getting those type of fasteners out or back in without damaging them.
 
My best experience with rusted bolt removal is a product called KROIL or SILIKROIL. Well worth the price and works much better than PB blaster in my experience.
 
Good advice. I will definitely check out that product. Now maybe somebody could stop me from going to buy this 370Z
 
Any though to taking a torch (VERY carefully) and heating up the head, around the stud, and seeing if it helps free the sob? Again, VERY CAREFULLY...
 
My best experience with rusted bolt removal is a product called KROIL or SILIKROIL. Well worth the price and works much better than PB blaster in my experience.

I use PB most of the time, but on stubborn ones, the Kroil comes out. Works great, but pricey.
 
Oxy Acetylene followed up with almost any fluid product as it cools works every time. Sometimes propane will do it. Quite often a good heat shield is required. Always have garden hose and fire extinguisher ready to go.
 
Wait till you go do your shocks, break the bleeders off, or try to remove a tie rod end
With trucks 20 yrs old and living in the rust everything on underside that gets worked on pretty much needs replaced.

LOL. Had to weld a nut to one of my bleeders recently.
 

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