PHH (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wayne
- Start date
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Very true 
Ready to go!
Do it!
Suck it PHH!
Pipe is looking a little worse for wear.
LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
How many miles on your rig? That's not the stock clamps so evidently it's been done before. Where'd you get the new hose and clamps?
Well, 190k hose still looks good here, so not touching it - yet.
Many thanks to all the brave souls who have gone before -
and lived to tell about it.
Many thanks to all the brave souls who have gone before -
and lived to tell about it.
You realize they rot from the inside?
Yup, all other hoses I've done on it point to clean and good inside. However, keeping an eye on it (and other small ones) but opted to not replace on the last go-round - maybe next time I drain coolant.
I don't have any pics of any old hoses I've replaced - but here's a pic of the old thermostat (next to the new),
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216k on the rig, and yeah clearly someone's done it before. Thank god I didn't have to deal with those cotter pin clamps on the PHH. Those are the craziest things I have ever seen. I've done a lot of wrenching in my day and have never come across something like that.
Anyway, I got the green stripe hose at O'Reilleys and the clamps at Napa.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
My 92 FJ80 has 233k on it and I've never replaced the PHH. Is the setup on the 3FE the same as the FZ? For an amateur mechanic like myself how difficult is this to do? I'm getting ready to do a bunch of hoses and figure that now would be the time to do it. Would it make sense to do the whole "bypass" set up?
My mechanical experience is: replaced radiator, water pump, alternator, starter, rebuilt my birfs, master cylinder on my 70... not a mechanic but can generally figure stuff out.
Thanks.
My mechanical experience is: replaced radiator, water pump, alternator, starter, rebuilt my birfs, master cylinder on my 70... not a mechanic but can generally figure stuff out.
Thanks.
I'm new to the FJ80 world but I'm pretty sure your motor doesn't hVe the PHH.
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I was trying to look at the engine diagrams and didn't see it. It'd be a nice relief. All of the other hoses seem to be easy to replace. I hope you're right...
mypancreasbroke
SILVER Star
So, finally knocked this out today, along with other associated cooling system pm. Many thanks to all who have posted their tips, info, pics, experiences etc.
Having worried about this little hose and the job to replace it for years, after having done it I wanted to say to any others who are hesitant out there, just do it. It really wasn't that bad. It did take me most the day to get all hoses replaced, flush, thermostat etc, but I have never done a job like this on a vehicle before, consider myself a 1/2
shade tree noob of a 'mechanic,' and took my time and checked mud often as I progressed. The longest part for me was the dad gum bracket bolt thats a pain to get too. I started to just bend the tube to break the bracket, but this loosed the bolt, which led me to try to just get it out. This led to several times dropping my ratchet wrench into the nethers of the engine compartment, which took me a good amount of time to fish out. So finally I just rocked the damn thing back and forth enough to break it, and then things went fine from there.
Don't be scurred by this, if I can knock it out, anyone can. Yes my arms are plenty scraped, hands and fingers sore but if I have to do this again I feel it could be done in around 30 mins, and I hope I can help someone in my local area knock this out and share what I've learned.
For 230k+ my phh was in relatively good shape, though it did have a pinprick hole in the center that had begun to leak when under load on hot days.
Thanks all for your hints and help!
Having worried about this little hose and the job to replace it for years, after having done it I wanted to say to any others who are hesitant out there, just do it. It really wasn't that bad. It did take me most the day to get all hoses replaced, flush, thermostat etc, but I have never done a job like this on a vehicle before, consider myself a 1/2
shade tree noob of a 'mechanic,' and took my time and checked mud often as I progressed. The longest part for me was the dad gum bracket bolt thats a pain to get too. I started to just bend the tube to break the bracket, but this loosed the bolt, which led me to try to just get it out. This led to several times dropping my ratchet wrench into the nethers of the engine compartment, which took me a good amount of time to fish out. So finally I just rocked the damn thing back and forth enough to break it, and then things went fine from there.Don't be scurred by this, if I can knock it out, anyone can. Yes my arms are plenty scraped, hands and fingers sore but if I have to do this again I feel it could be done in around 30 mins, and I hope I can help someone in my local area knock this out and share what I've learned.
For 230k+ my phh was in relatively good shape, though it did have a pinprick hole in the center that had begun to leak when under load on hot days.
Thanks all for your hints and help!
I had the misfortune of having to do this today.... FUN --->NOT!
But FWIW heres my 2 cents.
tools
8mm short gear wrench
12 mm to listen top tube bracket bolt
pry bar
optional (dominator radiator hose pick set) great to have
CALL AHEAD ASK THEM TO PHYSICALLY PULL PARTS OR TELL U CLOSEST STORE W AVAILABILITY
Qty .25 /ft napa "NBH H504" say h504 ->Hose silicon blue gates Part # buy .25ft (its a bulk Part number so they should have no issue doing it)
qty 2 # "BK 705-1500"ask for 705-1500 is constant torque type
or qty 2 (at the least)705-1550 which is the lined clamp good for silicon no pushing out
also some silicon spray to wet the inside. jack and support front driver corner remove wheel
remove inner shield to look similar to my pic. remove upper 12mm tube inlet pipe clamp
follow best effort to kill crappy cotter pin stainless headache clamp. then gut with dykes
use small vice grip needle nose to release std toyota jap squeeze clamp if needed use a hose pick set to release grip or slice w box cutter
cut napa nose to same exact size as oe or if apron 2.25 inches (pre tension clamps to be close to end size)
use brute force to move tube away from cyl head fitting.
take new silicon h504 piece spray inside w silicon shove onto cyl head nipple. spray hose again fight clamps between hose and inlet tube to get onto tube i aligned my clamps nuts to point down toward rear so they angled for easier tightening
alight tube close by hand (hard to move but close is fine due to silicon hose and spray)use pry bar to force tube back towards block (watching to make sure no pinch or burrs, catching on edge due to bad alignment)
...
took me less than 2 hrs for the physical get to and replace then an other hour or so to flush and refill then bleed.
I wish u a smooth fix
Cheers
Ed
FWIW
napa employees aren't all ASE certified so heres a link to their catalogs get your own part #
clamps- balkcamp
hose
NAPA Catalog | eRACK
But FWIW heres my 2 cents.
tools
8mm short gear wrench
12 mm to listen top tube bracket bolt
pry bar
optional (dominator radiator hose pick set) great to have
CALL AHEAD ASK THEM TO PHYSICALLY PULL PARTS OR TELL U CLOSEST STORE W AVAILABILITY
Qty .25 /ft napa "NBH H504" say h504 ->Hose silicon blue gates Part # buy .25ft (its a bulk Part number so they should have no issue doing it)
qty 2 # "BK 705-1500"ask for 705-1500 is constant torque type
or qty 2 (at the least)705-1550 which is the lined clamp good for silicon no pushing out
also some silicon spray to wet the inside. jack and support front driver corner remove wheel
remove inner shield to look similar to my pic. remove upper 12mm tube inlet pipe clamp
follow best effort to kill crappy cotter pin stainless headache clamp. then gut with dykes
use small vice grip needle nose to release std toyota jap squeeze clamp if needed use a hose pick set to release grip or slice w box cutter
cut napa nose to same exact size as oe or if apron 2.25 inches (pre tension clamps to be close to end size)
use brute force to move tube away from cyl head fitting.
take new silicon h504 piece spray inside w silicon shove onto cyl head nipple. spray hose again fight clamps between hose and inlet tube to get onto tube i aligned my clamps nuts to point down toward rear so they angled for easier tightening
alight tube close by hand (hard to move but close is fine due to silicon hose and spray)use pry bar to force tube back towards block (watching to make sure no pinch or burrs, catching on edge due to bad alignment)
...
took me less than 2 hrs for the physical get to and replace then an other hour or so to flush and refill then bleed.
I wish u a smooth fix
Cheers
Ed
FWIW
napa employees aren't all ASE certified so heres a link to their catalogs get your own part #
clamps- balkcamp
hose
NAPA Catalog | eRACK
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last pic
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MAYHEW MAKES GREAT TOOLS
PICKS
https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-60000..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=NWV9KGWZCBDY80TN0ZRS
PRYBARS
https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-61366..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=NWV9KGWZCBDY80TN0ZRS
CLOSE UP OF LEFT OVER H504 HOSE BLUE SILICON HOSE
SAW EARLIER IN POST SOME ONE SAID OE IS 50MM LENGTH I WAS ABOUT 55 OR SO
SAW EARLIER IN POST SOME ONE SAID OE IS 50MM LENGTH I WAS ABOUT 55 OR SO
Grench
SILVER Star
Congratulations. You have passed. Heck, I don't even see any blood. Good Job!
Dropping in to say thanks to all those who made the time to leave a write up on the PHH, i replaced mine yesterday after reading through these threads over the last few weeks.
