Full Floater Hub Stud Upgrade write up (1 Viewer)

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maybe somthing is bent slightly...
spindle could be knocked out of straight, witch could be measured by holding a straigtedge/ruler to your hub face, and rotate it while taking measurements at a given length of the ruler.
if its wobbling, that could be the culprit.
 
thats weird. though my bolts are longer than the original studs. wonder if that helps keep them tight? mine have locktite and split washers and no issues. its been quite sometime since i have done this mod.
 
look how much longer mine are in the original pic. the thread on the new cap bolts goes twice as deep as the original stud. maybe the extra bite keeps them tight, and i also agree that maybe you have a bent axle? was it both sides?
 
on both axles yes... and I also used the maximum length of bolts that would fit in the hub thread.. about 2x longer than the stud thread.
 
The diameter of the tapping drill will affect the ability of the bolts to remain tight. If you drill the hole slightly smaller than recommended then the minor diameter of the thread should be smaller. This would cause the clearances between the threads to be much tighter. Makes it much more rigid and the bolts would not back out as easy.
 
Found this thread, anything anyone wants to add, good or bad? I'm getting nitro axles in a week or so and I'm contemplating a heavier duty stud kit or something. Also, as I don't know, can chromo shafts be drilled the same as stock or "poly" as mentioned long ago? I have not looked into stud kit but saw a mention of a TrailGear kit which I'm going to look up after I hit post reply
 
I did this with my Nitro shafts and have had no issues with them
 
I did this with my Nitro shafts and have had no issues with them
How was it drilling the chromoly? I have a good, new set of Viking drill bits and a new press, all which was bought a year ago and I'm very competent with machining, I've never drilled chromoly though.
 
How was it drilling the chromoly? I have a good, new set of Viking drill bits and a new press, all which was bought a year ago and I'm very competent with machining, I've never drilled chromoly though.

Keep it cool, that's the key. Buy a good quality machining coolant, don't skimp on it and you can drill through anything. My drill kit is cheapo Chinese HSS and I have no dramas drilling through stainless and other tough metals.
 
How was it drilling the chromoly? I have a good, new set of Viking drill bits and a new press, all which was bought a year ago and I'm very competent with machining, I've never drilled chromoly though.

The flange was very easy to drill through. I don't think the flange is hardened
 
Great information. I followed your lead but used ARP Chromoly 12 point fasteners instead. I set them at 60lbs while i wait for bearings and seals to come in. Very little availability in Panama so I orderd them in the states :) I will make an update as soon as I give them a first trip.
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I like your thinking, but you won't be able to get the wheels on unless you take the OD of those flanged bolts down so they do not protrude from the OD of the flange.
 
Yep. I've seen the axle walk out with 33x12.50s.

Sheared studs. Saw axle walking out.

1) don't use RTV Silicone
2) use paper and glue type gasket adhesive
3) check torque of nuts on studs regularly

I've even tried tie-wired bolts... they loosened off and sheared.
 
It is of utmost importance to make sure that the hub and axleshaft flange are perfectly clean and grease free before assembly. If cleaned and properly torqued, you shouldn't see a failure unless there's some other defect in the system.
 
It is of utmost importance to make sure that the hub and axleshaft flange are perfectly clean and grease free before assembly. If cleaned and properly torqued, you shouldn't see a failure unless there's some other defect in the system.

When my F died, a replacement was more than a newer 40... not in my budget.

Is a 1969, 350 SBC, RV Cam, 10.25:1 compression a "defect"? It's not built for Hp, and lugs down to about 400 rpm... :D



If the seal isn't 100% grease works it's way in, this reduces friction allowing more movement, and then it's a downhill slope.
 
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