Deformed Spindle Nut (1 Viewer)

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I'm a little lost on the inner nut torque, my manual says 43 ft lb on first, 47 on the second.
 
I'm a little lost on the inner nut torque, my manual says 43 ft lb on first, 47 on the second.
The FSM is not very consistent with it's units. I think they set the inner in "inch pounds". And then measure the preload with some fish scale thingy. Anyway, most people over the years have chucked the manual in this case and have gone with a straight torque value on that inner nut of somewhere from 15 - 35Ft lbs. 47 or whatever for the outer. YMMV
 
The FSM is not very consistent with it's units. I think they set the inner in "inch pounds". And then measure the preload with some fish scale thingy. Anyway, most people over the years have chucked the manual in this case and have gone with a straight torque value on that inner nut of somewhere from 15 - 35Ft lbs. 47 or whatever for the outer. YMMV
thank you
 
if they have their spindle nut at 35 lbs with out prob. they are very lucky... mine was not so kind. FSM says 4 lbs. on the inner nut . 45 or 47 on the outer nut.

FSM also quotes tire sizes most of us aren't running. Plus the huge number of guys using factory specs and having the spindle nuts back off spontaneously. Many guys go with the TG chromoly part but there are issues with how it's designed, IMO.

30 "sounded" tight to me before actually doing it, but the hub spins beautifully with new bearings at that torque. While I don't have a ton of miles on the setup yet, the sheer number of guys on this board successfully running that spec has me confident it'll go a long time before needing any attention.
 
FSM also quotes tire sizes most of us aren't running. Plus the huge number of guys using factory specs and having the spindle nuts back off spontaneously. Many guys go with the TG chromoly part but there are issues with how it's designed, IMO.

30 "sounded" tight to me before actually doing it, but the hub spins beautifully with new bearings at that torque. While I don't have a ton of miles on the setup yet, the sheer number of guys on this board successfully running that spec has me confident it'll go a long time before needing any attention.
I've done a 2000 mile road trip to Baja, the Rubithon, and numerous other wheeling trips since I set it up that way (25ft lbs). Solid as a rock, cool as cucumber. All day long.

I did the TG nut mod, too
 
Iirc, my 18-25ft/lb thought was for the mini truck front axle from my younger days. Now I remember, I did mine at 30 and 45, and they were a little loose the first time I checked them 1,000mi after fresh gears, and a full seal kit. Did the same spec again, checked at 5k mi, snug as a bug.
 
I bought a new spindle from @cruiseroutfit a few weeks ago, to replace a boogered-up one I had. He had the Joint Fuji upgraded replacement in stock for me. (upgraded because it has a smaller bronze bushing, and a needle bearing in it for the axleshaft to ride in)
 
How's the spindle doing? Agree with the chisel method. You mention hubs, so you're part time I'm assuming? I went with RCV axles and haven't had a problem. I blew up my factory rear axle and spun both shafts' splines two weeks ago, and the rcv's got me out of the Rubicon with only power to one rear wheel, and I'm on 37's. The only drawback is if you have aisin hubs, you need to chop off the outer clip groove so thet don't bottom out in the hub itself. Otherwise, I'm very happy with their performance. If you're not part time, I'd rethink chromo shafts/birfs on a DD as they don't wear the same.

Quick thread jack...sorry! Can you expand on chopping off the outer clip groove? I recently purhcased Aisin hubs and RCV birfs/axle shafts, and upon my rebuild, the Aisin manual hubs don't fit.
 
Sorry to bring this up again, but I'm having trouble getting the rotor and hub part in front of it off... The bearings are all exploded and I think they are holding it on somehow. I chiselled the nuts off and got the washers out, and I've tried a hammer to the back of the rotor to no use. Is there a technique I should try?
 
FSM also quotes tire sizes most of us aren't running. Plus the huge number of guys using factory specs and having the spindle nuts back off spontaneously. Many guys go with the TG chromoly part but there are issues with how it's designed, IMO.

What are the design issues with the TG chromoly spindle nut? I'm just curious, as I'm currently running these. I noticed that on one of them, the heads of the two allen screws rubbed against the drive plate at first.
 
What are the design issues with the TG chromoly spindle nut? I'm just curious, as I'm currently running these. I noticed that on one of them, the heads of the two allen screws rubbed against the drive plate at first.

TG tried to copy what is going on with the hub adjustment nuts on the rear of our vehicles.. that is, a nut that can be tightened, then a lock plate that screws to that nut and keys it to the slot in the spindle. Thing is, on the rear that lock plate is very thick. 3-4 times thicker than what is on the TG kit. That means it engages a LOT more of the slot to keep from loosening up.

On the factory front setup the star washer is very thin, but it is held captive by the inner and outer nuts. Yes, it can still turn, as quite a few people have experienced. But if/when it turns it doesn't mangle the threads on the spindle.

My complaint about the TG kit is that there isn't enough engagement in the slot and the hard metal that the lock-plate is made of is likely to mess up the slot and threads, especially if an outer bearing goes bad and heats things up. That tiny lock tab and the tab on the (soft metal) large flat washer are the ONLY things keeping the nut from backing off. In the factory setup the opposing torque of the inner and outer nuts are also helping avoid the nuts backing out.

BUT.. plenty of people running these and no one has had issues yet. May all be in my head, but I won't be running them as the factory setup with 30 ft-lb on the inner nut is working great for me.
 

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