Anybody willing to offer some fj40 bodywork coaching to a novice? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Threads
25
Messages
55
Location
Dogwood Mudhole, TN
Website
topoftheworldfarm.com
Hey Folks,
I am (ambitiously) trying a 3/4 tub swap. Starting with a '74 40 and putting a '70 on. The donor body needs help, but is in much better shape than the '74 I started with.
I hired a fellow to fix the rusted areas on the '70 (donor) and, yesterday, he flaked on me. Told me he couldn't do the work and I went and picked up the tub today.
I live in a rural area, so pickings are slim for body work folks that don't do everything for insurance pay-offs.
And I've got a cutoff wheel and reciprocating saw so why couldn't I take a stab at it? I'm sure I'll learn a lot trying to weld it all back together, but I don't want to start hacking on this body without some advice.
Is there anyone out there that would be willing to look at pics (which I will post) and give me advice on where to cut/how to plan out where to cut and why?
Thanks!
 
Start reading through my thread, there is a little info you may be able to use.



It is only metal, you can outsmart it.
 
and lose the reciprocating saw.

YouTube is full of very good clips on bodywork - if you need a direct one, Kevin Tetz. He's short, got a mustache, but he's darn good (usually I tell folks to avoid the ones with mustaches - you never know if they're joking or not so you cannot trust them)

If you have questions after the basics, learn to post your progress and ask as you go along. Usually someone comes along within 24 hours and can point you in the right direction - but pictures are key to success. No pictures, no views. No views, no advice.
 
2x re the recip saw - go get a nibbler of some kind, will make cutting sheet easier and the easier it is to cut, the better fit your metal will be which will make for better welds; also practice ahead of time so you can get used to voltage and speed settings - will save you lots of grinding time on your 40. For sure you can learn to do this yourself - Good luck!
 
Any particular reason for not using rec saw? I always like using when i could cause i didn't get sprayed with sparks. Just curious.
 
I'll prob finds out soon since just got a nibbler.
 
Any particular reason for not using rec saw? I always like using when i could cause i didn't get sprayed with sparks. Just curious.

because:
the blade grabs and tears thin metal
causes huge dents
makes an uneven edge - which makes welding difficult at best and impossible at worst

All of which take flat metal and make it into scrap. Use a cut-off wheel on either a small, 4" grinder or on an air grinder. Reciprocating saws are great for demolition, but terrible if you want to rebuild what you demo'd
 
I agree with all the other pointers already given, with some practice and a thin cut off wheel, it is pretty easy to make accurrate cuts with a grinder/cutoff tool.

If you still have the old tub, do your practice welding on it, you will see how the sheet metal reacts to the heat and find a technique that works best for you. Write down the settings (for the welder) that work best in each area so it's easy to reference and adjust as you move around the new tub.

One tool I've found helpful while replacing my drivers floor and patching my rockers are butt weld clamps, they help hold a consistent gap between the tub metal and the patch metal. By keeping a small gap between materials, you fill that gap with your weld bead and (hopefully) have less grinding to do and less filler to use later.


One other piece of advice, if using a MIG welder, use thin wire for body panels, .023, .024 or .025. Also, if possible use a shielding gas, while not necessary, it will definitely help keep your welds cleaner with less splatter.

Have fun with it and remember, if you don't like it, you can always cut it out and weld it up again :hillbilly:

image.png
 
I if you don't like it, you can always cut it out and weld it up again :hillbilly:

lol - you will cut it off and do it at least 3 times, despite what they show you on TV.

I did forget to add - when you're just starting out, buy the patch panels - sure, they're more expensive, but having the right metal with the right bends helps you in more ways then you know now. And yes, I'm saying cheat as much as physically possible.
 
Wow! Thanks so much for all the advice!
Two questions:
What's a nibbler? I have an attachment on my DeWalt drill that I cut metal roofing with. Kind of metal snips on steroids. Are these nibblers?
Patch panels? I assume these are pre-cut replacement body sections. Where does one find those?
Again, thanks very much everyone.
 
Get a good mig welder, buy some scrap and start playing with it. You'll neeed clamps, a good hood, gloves, and a ton of cut off wheels and flapping disks.
 
there is a lot to be said about spending decent money upfront on a good welder vs starting off with an "entry level" machine first, then a good machine later.
 
Copper pipe hammered flat to back up your welds.

Hammer and dolly.

The little butt weld clamps are your friend.

Vise grip c clamps.

Bigger vise grip c clamps.

More vise grip c clamps.

Quality weld through primer, like SEM copper weld. Pricey but you will need it.

Cut off wheels for your grinder make easy work of cutting the sheet metal.

Use a scratch awl to make your marks, just seems to work out better than a sharpie.

Small tack welds, keep moving, jump from one weld to another about 4-6 inches away.

Go slow, heat will ruin your hard work and effort. I make a complete series of tacks 4-6 inches apart, then drink a beer.

Shine a flashlight from behind your work after you grind your welds down, then tack all your pinholes.

Once you get started you will find it is not all that difficult, but extremely time consuming. Buy the pre formed patches in the places you will need them, they are worth the headache.

Have fun, feel free to PM me, I am in the middle of my own mess now.
 
Patch panels? I assume these are pre-cut replacement body sections. Where does one find those?
Again, thanks very much everyone.

I bought mine from Real Steel, they are nice, heavy gauge steel, formed really well, easy to work with, so far.

Google Real Steel cruiser parts.
 
Wow! Thanks so much for all the advice!
Two questions:
What's a nibbler? I have an attachment on my DeWalt drill that I cut metal roofing with. Kind of metal snips on steroids. Are these nibblers?
Patch panels? I assume these are pre-cut replacement body sections. Where does one find those?
Again, thanks very much everyone.

a nibbler punches small holes that, if you push through, create a cut in metal. There's also unishears and metal cutters - both have blades - that cut the metal, the 1st can do radius cuts easier.

Replacement body panels. Cruiser Corps, Cruisers of Texas and a variety of others sell new parts, you can also check 4x4 wrecking yards and some toyota-specific salvage places for similar parts. One thing to remember about FJ40s, in 1977 the metal thickness changed - so whatever you are working on, thicker is better so try to get the thicker material. Thicker is also easier to weld and less likely to warp (but on all body panels you need to practice careful heat control)
 
I did real steel for floor pans, rockers and bed. CCOT for the sill. All great products.
 
An Accidental Frame Off..................


Page #14 is the start of some good info on my build, the body work continues from there. I think I have gotten a tad better at the body work as I have progressed. I think.


If it had rust, I cut it out, and put new clean metal in. Bottom line.
 

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