Looks awesome! Are you planning on using a soft top or a hard top?
Quad Cab - 4 door coil sprung shortened troopy/extended swb build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Sporty Forty
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- 1vd-ftv 80 chassis
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- #182
Will be using a hard top. Got a roof from a troopy and have just sent it off the to fibreglass joint for them to widen it by 50mm. It will then come back and be put on the car and then cut shorter and sent back again. A bit of mucking around but the actual length when compared to a troopy isn't really known, I'd say 12"-18" shorter.
Any more pics?
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- #184
Got some other photo's but they are only odd bits and pieces like the heater rebuild I just completed and the 1/4 windows etc....
As it's currently at a panel place they do work on it in between other work. I will be back there next week for a few days working with them on the rear door stops and other small things while they weld the body.
At some stage I need to start working on the dash cluster as that will be required soon
Very cool build! Everytime I look at the pics, I go cross eyed! I guess my mind can't process the wider 40 front end. 
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- #186
Very cool build! Everytime I look at the pics, I go cross eyed! I guess my mind can't process the wider 40 front end.
Only 50mm wider
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- #187
Been working on the heater unit over the last few weeks at odd times. Core seemed in good condition and didn't leak, so bonus there, but all the soft spongy stuff had gone all frail so I got some new sponge stuff and stuck it down. Painted the case satin black and only have the screws to put back in place and it's finished. I will be mounting this to a piece of aluminium as the bolt holes in the firewall are now 50mm wider and this seemed the most practical way without changing too much.
Some scratches on the top plastic part so that might get a rub with some 2000 emery cloth or something but it's hidden away so might just leave it.
As the 1/4 vent window rubbers were pretty shot, I pulled them out a while ago and got new rubbers. Now trying to put them all back together again and it's proving to be almost as hard as getting them to pieces in the first place.
I have painted the frame satin black as well.
Some scratches on the top plastic part so that might get a rub with some 2000 emery cloth or something but it's hidden away so might just leave it.
As the 1/4 vent window rubbers were pretty shot, I pulled them out a while ago and got new rubbers. Now trying to put them all back together again and it's proving to be almost as hard as getting them to pieces in the first place.
I have painted the frame satin black as well.
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- #188
Speedo cluster time.
Been one of those things always in the back of my mind as to how I was going to do this. I have to use the donor VDJ79 speedo cluster as it has some circuitry in there that talks with the other parts of the electrical system.
I wanted to use the 40 style and was going to widen the front panel of a 40 cluster but that wasn't going to work. Eventually I decided to make something similar but more fitting the 79 speedo cluster than the 40. This is what I have planned and hope to make a plywood template soon and then fold some sheet metal around it. I will look at painting it the std FJ40 silver colour and have at least 2 of the 40 series speedo cluster screws there. I will mount tabs on the underside of the dash to mount the 79 speedo cluster from behind and put some nuts there to keep it tight. I will then screw this front panel onto the front of the dash face covering the hole and there will be a piece of glass in the middle somewhere.
Hopefully I don't balls it up.
back of the VDJ79 speedo cluster
Will use the 8mm holes there to mount the cluster to the underside of the dash.
Trying to make some sense of how to get this all to work. Even thought abut using the 40 speedo cluster case, widening it and then re-soldering it around the 79 series one. Gave up on that and put it in the too hard basket.
Made a cardboard template of what I would like it to look like. Was thinking make it from 10mm aluminium and then machine the back out a bit for the glass, and then filed that one in the too hard basket. Will make a plywood template to mold sheet metal around it. I will then put a depression in the areas of the large black dots and a hole in there and that is where I will put the 40 series dash cluster screws into hold it onto the dash front. Sounds like a plan.
Been one of those things always in the back of my mind as to how I was going to do this. I have to use the donor VDJ79 speedo cluster as it has some circuitry in there that talks with the other parts of the electrical system.
I wanted to use the 40 style and was going to widen the front panel of a 40 cluster but that wasn't going to work. Eventually I decided to make something similar but more fitting the 79 speedo cluster than the 40. This is what I have planned and hope to make a plywood template soon and then fold some sheet metal around it. I will look at painting it the std FJ40 silver colour and have at least 2 of the 40 series speedo cluster screws there. I will mount tabs on the underside of the dash to mount the 79 speedo cluster from behind and put some nuts there to keep it tight. I will then screw this front panel onto the front of the dash face covering the hole and there will be a piece of glass in the middle somewhere.
Hopefully I don't balls it up.
back of the VDJ79 speedo cluster
Will use the 8mm holes there to mount the cluster to the underside of the dash.
Trying to make some sense of how to get this all to work. Even thought abut using the 40 speedo cluster case, widening it and then re-soldering it around the 79 series one. Gave up on that and put it in the too hard basket.
Made a cardboard template of what I would like it to look like. Was thinking make it from 10mm aluminium and then machine the back out a bit for the glass, and then filed that one in the too hard basket. Will make a plywood template to mold sheet metal around it. I will then put a depression in the areas of the large black dots and a hole in there and that is where I will put the 40 series dash cluster screws into hold it onto the dash front. Sounds like a plan.
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
amazing work man! attention to detail is epic and love the modernization going on too
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- #190
Surround template made. Now to form some sheet metal around it. Will have 2 40 series screws in there.
What a build! In regards to the patrol diff, how will this go with vibration? I was always taught to only run one angle on driveshafts that utilise universal joints. I.e if you run 3deg down on the transmission you run 3deg up on the diff pinion to stop the issue with the velocity change inherent with universal....so the changes in velocity cancel themselves out. Or have I missed that in the thread somewhere? Or isn't it much of an issue?
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- #192
My understanding of vibrations is that the vibrations are usually when the output face of the transfer and the input face of the pinion are out of alignment and when large degrees occur ie with lift and your running at an extreme angle to start off with and hence why the 60 came with a double cardin joint, or a large offset. I am running less then 7 degrees offset as its around the 3-4 mark. If this turns to custard I will buy an 80 diff, widen it, splice the pootrol rear in there. I was going this way to start off with to keep it in line but the initial guy I had ballsed this all up and speaking with the new fabricator he said I will be fine running this type of angle. (But I will probably go 80outers and pootrol center set up at some stage as I have found someone who can do this and not stuff it up.)
Time will tell but hoping that it's correct. A few guys here run toyota transfers onto patrol rear axles no problems.
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- #193
Been looking at brush bars and the side protection of the rear wheel. As I have to 'ensure the wheel is covered' I have to have them wide enough to keep the cops off my back. In doing this I was looking at that width, over 100mm, and then by the time I added on some side protection it would balloon this figure out past 150mm and that would just look off.
As I have some fibreglass flares here for my yellow 40, I decided that they would be better made in metal. Got some 76mm tube, bent it to the shape of the flare, then cut it into 1/4's so I had a left and right hand side by using the top sections (the bottom sections will be used somewhere but not on this project). Wall thickness is something like 3mm so it will be good and strong. braced it back to the body and had a sandwich plate type of arrangement though the body and then will put in some more bits to take it to the inner wheel arch probably.
The brush bars will come from the chassis in front of the head light surround and then follow the guards around and down the side. They are 45mm dia tube and are 20mm out from the panels. After the rear door they will kick out a bit and end then there. They will line up with this rear flare at this stage. After the wheel the rear bar will have bits coming around the side to start near the end of the flare. Should look clean and simple when completed fingers crossed as usual.
Ute load of tube. Basically one black pipe and 4 blue pipes required for a pair. They are the same shape and line up pretty good. One of the blue pipes is on the inside of the wheel arch and acts as the strengthening plate for the flare to bolt on to.
Mock up showing 1/4 section of pipe. Running 25mm sq tube and 25x50mm tube as well, 2mm wall to give it some strength and also the rectangular tube should give it some sideways strength too. Has been notched out at the top to allow some 2mm sheet metal to sit nicely behind the 3mm round section and then that goes off to the body.
2mm sheet metal welded in place and ends rounded. Some more welding around the ends of the supports and it's done.
Note diff is not centered and needs to come over 13mm to this side.
Note hardly any weight in the rear and these are 33's. Plan on running 35's with more offset outwards rim and then some fuel, seats, roof, carpet, windows etc.... so it should sit a lot lower.
As I have some fibreglass flares here for my yellow 40, I decided that they would be better made in metal. Got some 76mm tube, bent it to the shape of the flare, then cut it into 1/4's so I had a left and right hand side by using the top sections (the bottom sections will be used somewhere but not on this project). Wall thickness is something like 3mm so it will be good and strong. braced it back to the body and had a sandwich plate type of arrangement though the body and then will put in some more bits to take it to the inner wheel arch probably.
The brush bars will come from the chassis in front of the head light surround and then follow the guards around and down the side. They are 45mm dia tube and are 20mm out from the panels. After the rear door they will kick out a bit and end then there. They will line up with this rear flare at this stage. After the wheel the rear bar will have bits coming around the side to start near the end of the flare. Should look clean and simple when completed fingers crossed as usual.
Ute load of tube. Basically one black pipe and 4 blue pipes required for a pair. They are the same shape and line up pretty good. One of the blue pipes is on the inside of the wheel arch and acts as the strengthening plate for the flare to bolt on to.
Mock up showing 1/4 section of pipe. Running 25mm sq tube and 25x50mm tube as well, 2mm wall to give it some strength and also the rectangular tube should give it some sideways strength too. Has been notched out at the top to allow some 2mm sheet metal to sit nicely behind the 3mm round section and then that goes off to the body.
2mm sheet metal welded in place and ends rounded. Some more welding around the ends of the supports and it's done.
Note diff is not centered and needs to come over 13mm to this side.
Note hardly any weight in the rear and these are 33's. Plan on running 35's with more offset outwards rim and then some fuel, seats, roof, carpet, windows etc.... so it should sit a lot lower.
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- #194
photo showing bolt holes that will go through the body panels onto another piece the same as this blue piece. It has come out better than I thought.
Has the same profile as these fibreglass flares. These have been ripped a bit so will make another set to suit this at some stage.
Has the same profile as these fibreglass flares. These have been ripped a bit so will make another set to suit this at some stage.
Absolutely love how you have done those rear flares! Nice factory look and the added bonus of lots of strength. I'll be stealing that idea for my new project!!
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- #196
Hey Twisty,
I stood on the things and I'm more than 130kgs and they didn't move. Used a different shape to the drawing that you sent me as I felt it was a bit wide for my application.
Will be selling the pipes if your interested. got this width and 100mm wider as well.
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2fpower
SILVER Star
Amazing idea of how to do flares. Saved in my to do list!
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- #198
Thanks, when I approached the bending company they thought it couldn't see how it was going to work. Has come out really good, but a bit of work but reckon I never have to worry about damaging them.
Was pretty simple to do, mark 1/2 along the round tube, cut with a grinder, make it look nice using the linisher belt, draw the inner profile onto the short stay tube (you can have any length too) cut it so it fits under the round tube 1/4 and then back to the 25mm sq tube that I had pre drilled holes through both the inner and out pieces. The got some 2mm sheet cut to 1500mm as that how long it needed to be and bent around the shape. Some heating to get it sitting right at the corners but the end result is pretty good in my opinion.
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- #199
Got the roof off the the fibreglasses a while ago to put the 50mm in there. Came back today so we could see how we are tracking in relation to panel width etc... Lined up within 40 series tolerances and nothing that a good shove when doing the bolts up wont fix.
Will now head back there to get 155mm (6") cut out of the middle section as this body is that much shorter than a troopys body.
Starting to take shape.
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- #200
Been doing all sorts of little jobs lately in between work.
The speedo cluster surround has come out looking very good. Still needs a small tidy up and some paint but has kept the identity of a 40 look and will be using the 40 series screws in there as well. This was a rough look see at it.
Had to locate the computer and there was only really one place for this. The glovebox. I cut out the bracket that the computer bolts onto in the firewall of the 79 series and we put it into this firewall above the blower fan unit.
The cnter area of the dash has always been one of those things. Like everything else have wanted to stay as close to the look of a 40 as possible. As the lights and wipers are now on the steering column (79 series one being used) it free'd up some space on the center area. I have to have the gearbox information display there as this is where it shows me what gear I am in. (ADR requirement that one) Rough plan.
I have moved the hazard switch over to the door side of the dash and it has taken the location of where the light switch was.
Wiper knob there as the actual fan switch had broken so we just put that there for a representation of size and looks. I will be retaining the 40 clock and 4WD/Brake and park brake area. Scan gauge may be moved.
I pulled the fan blower unit to bits and replaced all the foam stuff that had long since perished. As the donor vehicle had been painted white at some stage they hadn't bothered to cover the engine bay so I had over spray on it. I got some paint that adhere's to plastic and tried that. It came out pretty well. A few runs but it's hidden in the engine bay and will be covered by crap soon enough. I just need to replace that resistor thingy and it will look good again.
The speedo cluster surround has come out looking very good. Still needs a small tidy up and some paint but has kept the identity of a 40 look and will be using the 40 series screws in there as well. This was a rough look see at it.
Had to locate the computer and there was only really one place for this. The glovebox. I cut out the bracket that the computer bolts onto in the firewall of the 79 series and we put it into this firewall above the blower fan unit.
The cnter area of the dash has always been one of those things. Like everything else have wanted to stay as close to the look of a 40 as possible. As the lights and wipers are now on the steering column (79 series one being used) it free'd up some space on the center area. I have to have the gearbox information display there as this is where it shows me what gear I am in. (ADR requirement that one) Rough plan.
I have moved the hazard switch over to the door side of the dash and it has taken the location of where the light switch was.
Wiper knob there as the actual fan switch had broken so we just put that there for a representation of size and looks. I will be retaining the 40 clock and 4WD/Brake and park brake area. Scan gauge may be moved.
I pulled the fan blower unit to bits and replaced all the foam stuff that had long since perished. As the donor vehicle had been painted white at some stage they hadn't bothered to cover the engine bay so I had over spray on it. I got some paint that adhere's to plastic and tried that. It came out pretty well. A few runs but it's hidden in the engine bay and will be covered by crap soon enough. I just need to replace that resistor thingy and it will look good again.
