Are the 3rd gen 4runner dc joints beefy enough for hardcore stuff?
Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Bear80
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Well, I snapped one axle and spun two axle shaft' splines with mine if that helps?
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Snapped the u joints?
Edited, snapped LR axle, and spun both shafts' splines (stock shafts)
Im asking about actual hardcore use though... not driving like a schoolgirl on the rubicon
You prick!
Snapping an axle is schoolboy, get it right.
After lifting an 80 series past a certain point and or correcting the front castor to account for the lift, a double cardan (DC) joint drive shaft will be needed. Slee Off-Road offers an excellent solution with all new quality Spicer joints and also a local drive shaft shop can make any custom shaft for your needs. However, my personal preference is to keep with Toyota Koyo joints AND half the price of a new shaft. There is a Toyota solution for both the front AND rear of the 80 series.
Double cardan shafts for the front
The most common has been to find a rear shaft off an '95.5-'04 extra or double cab Tacoma. The bolt patterns will match at both the pinion and t-case, however the Tacoma shaft is longer in length. A competent drive shaft shop can easily re-tube it to the needed length. The other solution is to use the rear shaft off an '00-'07 Tundra extra cab, which will also need to be shortened. Both solutions are cheap, costing half the price of a new shaft and you will have Koyo joints.
Here is the Trundra shaft on the front t-case:
Double cardan shafts for the rear
Keep in mind that the bolt pattern and bolts on the rear shaft of the Land Cruiser are BIGGER than the front. It is possible to use a rear shaft off an '96-'02 4x4 4Runner. The bolt pattern will ONLY match at the t-case. The 4Runner uses a smaller slip yoke and flange at the pinion. The only solution is to have a drive shaft shop re-tube the shaft with a new slip yoke and flange to match the Land Cruiser's pinion OR cannibalize your original shaft for the slip yoke and flange. This shouldn't be much more trouble since the 4runner shaft is longer and needs to be cut down anyway. This would also be the time to use thicker tubing.
Here is the 4Runner shaft on the rear t-case:
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Also the front shaft from a pre-'84 FJ60 will not idealy work in the rear becuase a change in flange designs. Front shafts off a pre-tacoma or '84-'95 4Runner will also not work on either the front or rear of the 80 series. However, the DC joints from these shafts can be used if the LC's tube with slip yoke flange is matted to then. Then the flange(s) on the t-case must be drilled to accept the new bolt pattern from these joints. I would consider this a less than ideal solution but no less a possiblity.
Does it matter if the rear Tacoma shaft is from a 2wd? Also does it matter if it's from a 4cyl or 6cyl? Auto or manual tranny?
it has to be from a 4x4 tacoma with an extended frame. All variances of these will work.
So I just picked up my donor driveshaft from 2001 Tacoma. Went to the part store to get replacement u joints and they are telling me they don't make replacement parts?? Please tell me I am missing something.
From what I understand, Toyota only sells complete propeller shafts themselves. If you have a driveline shop in your area that knows what they are doing, go there and see what they can do for you. I started out going the 4runner route but ended up taking the advice of the driveline shop that I have done business with for many years and let them build me some DC shafts out of brand new 1310 size stuff. Toyota parts that are not warn out are getting so hard to find that U.S. manufactures are making yokes to fit the Toyota outputs with no machining except for flange thickness...
I believe that the front is every bit as strong as a Toyota part would be. The rear, on the other hand, I'm not so sure of because the 80 series rear shaft is over built and very strong. Mine has Spicer Life Time joints in it which are a solid cross due to no grease passages. The veterans at the driveline shop I use know how I use my Cruiser due to all the damaged shafts I have brought them over the past 20 years and I don't think they would put me into a drive shaft that they did not completely believe in.
My 1310 DC shafts have seen a few Rubicon trips on 35' tires with no issues yet. Only time will tell. After seeing the DC joints out of the tacoma's and 4runners, which are lighter duty than stock 80 rear shaft (has massive U-joints), I would expect my 1310 DC joints to be just as strong and the good part is that the parts are readily available and if you did every experience a trail break down, anyone might have the part you need, even a j**p guy. Having said this, I do carry a spare, rear, stock drive shaft ,which will get me back to pavement, but without the DC joint, probably would not work too well at high way speed.
The joints in the CV portion of the Tacoma driveshaft are NOT generally serviceable. Even with aftermarket parts your options are to either replace the entire shaft, or cut out the old and weld in a whole new CV assembly.
Also of note, the Taco rear shaft is only used for an 80 front CV shaft. The rear 80 shaft has a different (larger) flange pattern that does not match the Tacoma parts.
Also of note, the Taco rear shaft is only used for an 80 front CV shaft. The rear 80 shaft has a different (larger) flange pattern that does not match the Tacoma parts.
the rear u-joint is serviceable from Toyota. Who knows what your parts store has to offer. The DC side is another story. If in good shape and regularly maintained it will live a life time. If not, the shaft is toast.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Look all over pirate and you'll find that Toyota CVs are stronger than 1310 cvs and maybe as strong or stronger than 1350 cvs.
Myself I have 1350 cvs front and rear.
Myself I have 1350 cvs front and rear.
Adapted to the toyota xfer case?
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Nah sorry, that was probably misleading. I guess I just mentioned that because I feel like going 1310 from Toys is going backwards and my point was I'd never run a 1310. 1310 are for Jeeps, and even they grenade them. Stick with the yota s*** or find a way to step it up to 1350s
Fwiw my entire drivetrain is no longer Toyota, really my entire 80 less the body and frame.
Fwiw my entire drivetrain is no longer Toyota, really my entire 80 less the body and frame.
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Spicer and/or Neapco are making 1310 CV's with the correct bolt pattern for our Toyota application. The only modification necessary is to machine the flange thickness down to a max of .300" in order to have a thread or two protruding past the nuts of the flange studs.
I know - have one. But was surprised about a 1350 cv
