CV Boots Replaced with directions (2 Viewers)

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Two weeks later, and two days before leaving for a vacation, I started the PS axle. I supported the lower ball joint with a jack, undid the upper ball joint retaining castle nut, applied a two-arm puller, loosened, but did not remove the ball joint shaft, and lowered the jack. While the suspension was lowering the upright caught on the upper ball joint's threads, completely stripping the lower threads (insert much cursing).
Ball%20Joint.jpg

I completed the re-boot, ordered a new eBay ball joint (Chinese, we'll see how this works), and rented an SUV for the family vacation. Overall I probably still saved money vice taking the truck to a shop, but it's a good reminder that despite how beefily these trucks are made working on them still requires attention and a little finesse vice blind brute force.

Dan
 
i just noticed a blown boot while changing my oil yesterday. I don't know how long it's been blown, but am not hearing any grinding. I bought a '99 LX in August with 105k on it, and am assuming that this boot could have been blown for a pretty long time.
I'm thinking that replacing the CV is probably the best bet, but would love to save a little $$$.
Thoughts from some of ya'll who know more than I do?

1999 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts -
 
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Ok when they say pry off the dust shield #7 is the gap where the screwdriver is pointed the gap you want to pry on ?


Dif%20pic_3.jpg
 
Question: Does one need to remove the 54mm bolt to remove the cv?
 
i just noticed a blown boot while changing my oil yesterday. I don't know how long it's been blown, but am not hearing any grinding. I bought a '99 LX in August with 105k on it, and am assuming that this boot could have been blown for a pretty long time.
I'm thinking that replacing the CV is probably the best bet, but would love to save a little $$$.
Thoughts from some of ya'll who know more than I do?

No way for me to tell for sure, but I had the same situation as you. After taking it all apart, the ball bearings and race were in great shape so the OEM reboot kit was all I needed. Just be ready to purchase a new axle if the bearings are damaged.

Ok when they say pry off the dust shield #7 is the gap where the screwdriver is pointed the gap you want to pry on ?

Yes

Question: Does one need to remove the 54mm bolt to remove the cv?

54mm bolt? There are two 54m nuts that provide pre-load to the wheel bearings. I didn't even think to try to remove the axle/CV joint assembly without removing the hub. Why? Because it is a great opportunity to re-grease the wheel bearings (a preventive maintenance item). And to get them out you need to remove the 54mm nuts.
 
No way for me to tell for sure, but I had the same situation as you. After taking it all apart, the ball bearings and race were in great shape so the OEM reboot kit was all I needed. Just be ready to purchase a new axle if the bearings are damaged.



Yes



54mm bolt? There are two 54m nuts that provide pre-load to the wheel bearings. I didn't even think to try to remove the axle/CV joint assembly without removing the hub. Why? Because it is a great opportunity to re-grease the wheel bearings (a preventive maintenance item). And to get them out you need to remove the 54mm nuts.

Thanks for the insight, I might as well take care of that maintenance item and be done with it for a while! Thanks..
 
We are rebooting my 2007 next weekend.

Shopping for an arm puller. Any recommendations?

Thanks!
 
A Pittman arm puller. To pull the UCA.
 
Pitman arm puller made by Evertough #67025 at Oreilly's (loaner tool). I used with spacer I have to protect threads, for all three ball joints, this worked best for upper ball joint. UCA need not be remove to reboot CV's (AKA: front drive shafts boots, axle boots) just separate ball joint from steering knuckle. Some guys are really good with a 5lb sledge hammer, and just whack the knuckle five times.

01 LX470 214K 002 a.jpg


Note the FSM procedure to remove drive shaft:
001.JPG
 
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Do you have to remove the outer shaft from the hub to remove the inner shaft? I'm just replacing the passenger axle seal, and was wondering if I could just separate the uca and lca. Does that make sense?
 
Leave axle in wheel hub. You'll not even remove grease cap. (To replace axle seal in Differential)

Get brake line out of way by unbolting entire bracket from knuckle by the one bolt (with ABS wheel sensors wire and brake line brackets still attached to this main bracket). Remove ABS wire from upper bracket off UCA and unplug ABS wire from under the hood. Pull off caliper and hang to side. Then remove key & nut from UCA and pull with Pitman arm puller. Now slide under your rig with a brass bar and hammer. You'll be able to move axle out of differential and to one side.

Take great care installing seal. Adding gear lube to seal aids in setting seal in place. Get seal in square. Add grease to lip of seal before putting axle back in.

Tip: Use floor jack under LCA for control of height of knuckle.
 
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Perfect. That's what I thought. Thanks for the input!
 
What 2001LC said. I just did this over the weekend. No need to do anything with the LCA, just break the taper on the ball joint shaft. I just loosened the castle nut a bit, used 2 hammers and smacked both sides of the knuckle on the 2 flat spots. Both sides took 3 or 4 hits and dropped. It took all of half an hour to get both sides pulled.
 
Great. Okay. Any tricks to getting the seal squared up?

Also, is there a axle seal installer tool that can be used?

Going to tackle this in the morning.
 
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Lube the seal with some gear oil to help it go in easier. I just lined it up as straight as possible and then put the old seal on top of the new one and lightly tapped it with a hammer around the entire seal until it was in. Be careful not to set it in too far, just get it flush with the diff. There are special tools to set seals, but I had read on here of several people just using the old seal. Worked perfect for me.
 
^ it's they way I've always done it. One of these days I'd like a seal tool set, would really speed things up.

BTW I've seen some missing the dust cover, I made a tool for installing that. I also added grease around snap ring. You should also replace snap ring, but regardless make sure open end of snap ring is pointed down.
010.JPG


I added a bit to much grease to lip of seal prior to replace shaft, but better than none.
011.JPG

BTW, I use Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease #2 & Mobil 1 gear lube 75W-90
 
Great pics! That helps. Okay. I have the axle out. Actually wasn't that hard to do. However, the old seal is being a pain to get out. Any pointers?
 

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