Valvoline "ford-lincon-mercury" moly grease in Birfield? (1 Viewer)

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Sorry about all these similar posts. I have been using Valvoline Palladium Moly grease as recommended by members here in my Birfield. I am rebuilding my birfields now so I will clean out all the old grease. I am having trouble finding more of the Palladium today as some of the stores are closed. I bought 3 tubs of Valvoline "Ford-Lincon-Mercury Moly Fortified multi-purpose Grease". Says "Wheel bearings/ steering linkage/ chassis/ suspension/ universal joints". it is NLGI#2 grade lithium complex EP grease, 0F-375F, drop point 500F. It looks like it should be GTG. Any opinions?
 
I used it for about 5k miles or so. Worked fine. I just changed over to Valv. durablend on my last service. The consistnacy of the two was exact.
I think it's more about changing it when contaminated that is important. You can prob put any grease in there and would be fine with frequent checks and service.

I even packed my wheel bearings with the durablend. I repack my bearings often because I am OCD so I don't think it will ever be a problem. Time will tell. I got sick of changing to different grease while doing the work. What a pain if you dont have two grease guns and two bearing packers.
 
The consensus is that this grease meets all of the mfg's general criteria (I think the unknown is % of moly) and should be good to go for the birf's & bearings.
 
Sorry about all these similar posts. I have been using Valvoline Palladium Moly grease as recommended by members here in my Birfield. I am rebuilding my birfields now so I will clean out all the old grease. I am having trouble finding more of the Palladium today as some of the stores are closed. I bought 3 tubs of Valvoline "Ford-Lincon-Mercury Moly Fortified multi-purpose Grease". Says "Wheel bearings/ steering linkage/ chassis/ suspension/ universal joints". it is NLGI#2 grade lithium complex EP grease, 0F-375F, drop point 500F. It looks like it should be GTG. Any opinions?
10k no issues and it meets all criteria. It's the only thing I could find around here at the time
 
FYI I looked up the MSDS on this and it says 2.5% moly. I like it over the Palladium because it comes in a tub and I can spoon it out instead of having it run it through a grease gun.

I'm curious what would happen if we used it in U joints and wheel bearings.
 
No need to push your Pallidium thru a grease gun.
The Harbor Freight Bearing and Race Kit that was used to set the trunion bearings also pushes the grease.
Makes zero mess using grease gun to top off knuckle thru Square plug thou.
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What are you using on the other side of the tube? Do they make an adapter like what's on a caulking gun? That's what I would like.
 
@Hornd thats a pretty slick idea, no pun intended. I usually just take a razor and cut down the length and across the width on the sealed end then put my gloved hand at one end and scoop it all out in one sweep and pack it in the knuckle. A lot less time consuming, a little messier.
 
What are you using on the other side of the tube? Do they make an adapter like what's on a caulking gun? That's what I would like.

I open the end that has the peeled back metal tab then I use the Bearing Race tool to push it out from opposite end.
 
Through plug hole? How does that not make a mess?

Buy it in the tub. Stick hand in ziplock, scoop grease out, flip bag inside out, cut corner of bag, pretend there is a cupcake inside knuckle.

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I'm curious what would happen if we used it in U joints and wheel bearings.

IIRC there was a thread, many years back, where it was insinuated that LC wheel bearings would wear prematurely if packed with moly grease because moly grease is too slick, so it was argued that it would not let the cylinders (or them whatchamacallit thingies you know are there when you held a wheel bearing in your hands...) in the bearing rotate...

I've used moly grease in u-joints, but that was/is in my K5 Blazer :hillbilly:. I'm fairly sure you can't possibly do that to Toyota u-joints and get away with it...
 
That valvoline grease will be fine everywhere, but maybe isn't as ideal as it could be for the birfs. I think the spec if for a higher percentage of Moly.

But the Ford-Lincoln-Merc grease is what is almost always in my grease gun for u-joints, tie rod ends, driveshaft splines etc.
 
Been using Valvoline Palladium, 3% Moly, for years; birfs,, knuckle cavities, slip yolks, and U-joints, no issues. Original rear U-joints now at 350,000 miles.
 
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I put it in my last 80 and ran it for years with no issues in the birfs, front wheel bearings and u-joints. It's in all the same places in my current 80 as well. It's easy for me to get and the tub is nice for scooping handfuls into the birf and birf housing.
 
First off, why do grease guns wear out?

Anyways, I took an old worn out grease gun, put my tube of moly grease in as normal, left the head off. With the axle OUT of the birf, I let the grease tube push grease in the axle hole til it came out the balls. The stuck the axle in the birf, which pushed more grease out the balls. I then stuck the assembled birf/axle into the housing and did the same with 2 more tubes. Just keep ahold of the gun rod firmly, if you let it get away, you will need another tube :redface:
 

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