Air condition leak part questions. (1 Viewer)

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Mar 8, 2012
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Location
Virginia
So I'll start with the usual 93fzj80 175000k miles automatic.
My a/c stopped working due to a leak, which appears to be coming from this plug. I unplugged it and it was full of a/c coolant. I have no idea what it is so any help would be great. Its the plug directly in ftont of the battery .
20160923_185422.jpg
Thanks
 
Pressure switch.
 
Thank you, now I need to figure out why and how it's leaking.
 
There's an O-ring for that switch where it screws into the metal line. In my experience the particular O-ring that comes with the Four Seasons kit appeared to be ever so slightly undersized; smaller than the original Denso O-ring. I cannot say using the Four Seasons O-ring for that position will cause a leak, just something I noticed. I went to my local NAPA store and found a HVAC system compatible O-ring that was closer to the OEM/Denso O-ring dimension (cross-section diameter) but I haven't yet put the system back together so don't know how that O-ring will work. FWIW.
 
Thanks, im going to tare into it today and check the plug as well as o-rings .
 
Will do, the o-ring doesn't appear to be the problem, won't know until I pull it out, but it seems to be leaking inside of the switch.
 
Unscrewed the plug and coolant sparyed everywhere, this repair might be out of my comfort zone will take it to a shop next week. Thanks for the input guys.
 
Did you put the pressure switch back in immediately? You might not have to replace the drier if you do that, although by the book you should.
 
Did you put the pressure switch back in immediately? You might not have to replace the drier if you do that, although by the book you should.
Yeah, and then I tried to add more refrigerant but the pressure wouldn't allow it.
 
Your 93 was originally r-12. Had the PO or you converted it? If not, now is the time to do so. The system is already "evacuated". So, replace the drier, expansion valve, and o rings. This is about a 30 minute job for all of the above. The pressure switch o ring in the kit works fine. Or you can look for a different replacement. Mine have worked fine in my 92 and 93.

Then you need to take off the compressor to drain the mineral oil (or like myself and numerous others, don't bother). Then add PAG oil and r-134a refrigerant. I just used one can with the PAG oil in the can and the rest straight r-134. Some will argue that the mineral oil is not compatible with the r-134a. While this is technically true what it really means is that the mineral oil will just sit in your compressor (as it is the low point in your AC system) and not pull through the entire AC system. The little bit of PAG oil in the can that has the PAG oil in it will circulate through your system. They call this the "dirty method". Search it and you will get plenty of info by people much smarter than me explaining it.
 
Correct,however I think something screwed up the pressure in the lines or the compressed isn't working when I tried to remove the plug.
 
Your 93 was originally r-12. Had the PO or you converted it? If not, now is the time to do so. The system is already "evacuated". So, replace the drier, expansion valve, and o rings. This is about a 30 minute job for all of the above. The pressure switch o ring in the kit works fine. Or you can look for a different replacement. Mine have worked fine in my 92 and 93.

Then you need to take off the compressor to drain the mineral oil (or like myself and numerous others, don't bother). Then add PAG oil and r-134a refrigerant. I just used one can with the PAG oil in the can and the rest straight r-134. Some will argue that the mineral oil is not compatible with the r-134a. While this is technically true what it really means is that the mineral oil will just sit in your compressor (as it is the low point in your AC system) and not pull through the entire AC system. The little bit of PAG oil in the can that has the PAG oil in it will circulate through your system. They call this the "dirty method". Search it and you will get plenty of info by people much smarter than me explaining it.

Yeah PO switched everything to 134. So the pag oil is entered in the system just like the refrigerant ? Also, if I replace all of the above will I have to vacuum the lines before I add refrigerant and pag oil?
 
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Yeah PO switched everything to 134. So the pag oil is entered in the system just like the refrigerant ? Also, if I replace all of the above will I have to vacuum the lines before I add refrigerant and pag oil?


^^^^^^^^^^ Yes.

And IF you can do all that in 30 minutes (as suggested) I'd like to see video of it, because you'll have set a new World Record.
 
^^^^^^^^^^ Yes.

And IF you can do all that in 30 minutes (as suggested) I'd like to see video of it, because you'll have set a new World Record.
Ha! I always multiply the estimated repair times by 4!
 
^^^^^^^^^^ Yes.

And IF you can do all that in 30 minutes (as suggested) I'd like to see video of it, because you'll have set a new World Record.

If it was already converted to r134 why would you need to vacuum it?
 
Just made the trinary switch repair a few weeks ago on my 92

Four Seasons 20969 Air Conditioning Switch
Item price $41.82
Quantity 1
Item number 131848742178
Shipping service Standard Shipping



My Trinary switch failed and was leaking internally so that I had refrigerant dye in the plug terminals. I replaced the drier at the same time, and YES mine was already 134-converted. Evacuating the system is necessary to ensure you have the proper measured charge in the system (system efficiency is key to proper operation).

FYI: I added (2) teaspoons of PAG oil to the new drier. AS I recall (off the cuff from Sept 3rd) doing the conversion R-12 to 134 = 1.8 LBS of 134A refrigerant to recharge the system.

part (2) Add new refrigerant to the low side (suction side). If this induces fear than at least replace the switch and drier yourself and have a knowledgeable person Evac and recharge.

part (3) In the efficiency theme ~ I pulled and cleaned the blower fan + cleaned the 1/4" layer of crap off of the 24 year old evaporator fin face. A small cheap metal wire / nylon bristle flexible toilet brush is perfect for this task.
 
Last edited:
Just made the trinary switch repair a few weeks ago on my 92

Four Seasons 20969 Air Conditioning Switch
Item price $41.82
Quantity 1
Item number 131848742178
Shipping service Standard Shipping



My Trinary switch failed and was leaking internally so that I had refrigerant dye in the plug terminals. I replaced the drier at the same time, and YES mine was already 134-converted. Evacuating the system is necessary to ensure you have the proper measured charge in the system (system efficiency is key to proper operation).

FYI: I added (2) teaspoons of PAG oil to the new drier. AS I recall (off the cuff from Sept 3rd) doing the conversion R-12 to 134 = 1.8 LBS of 134A refrigerant to recharge the system.

part (2) Add new refrigerant to the low side (suction side). If this induces fear than at least replace the switch and drier yourself and have a knowledgeable person Evac and recharge.

part (3) In the efficiency theme ~ I pulled and cleaned the blower fan + cleaned the 1/4" layer of crap off of the 24 year old evaporator fin face. A small cheap metal wire / nylon bristle flexible toilet brush is perfect for this task.
Thank you for the detailed information. My switch is also leaking eternally into the terminals. I will replace the dryer and trinary switch and will do some tests to make sure the compressor is working correctly. As i mentioned i tried to refill with the leftover refrigerent i had ,while the a/c was on full blast , and there wasn'tany suction allowing me to empty the bottle and the gauge on the bottle was in the red. I was only trying to recharge to find leaks.
I thought the system had completely leaked out but there is some in the lines.
 

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