What is Disadvantage of Painting Outside Tub Smooth Bedliner ? (1 Viewer)

[Skydog]

Not saying I'm committed to do this, but I'm knowing others have, and like it. And know further yet others are staunchly against. ... But why ??

I speak of any tintable bed liner that can be rendered smooth (or fairly smooth). Say the rear quarter panels & rockers rendered semi-textured, and everything else rendered smooth (as in no bumps).

Say no longer any rust on metal; metal rust encapsulated; sealer; 2K epoxy primer applied, etc. And say the use of thin, tinted Monstaliner, Raptor, Durabak, or the like rendered in a smooth as possible way, polyurethane paint that would further encapsulate the metal, and of course resist overt scratching when driving through/amongst brush along overgrown forest-type trails & scrublands. (And if/when scratched, simply preparing & applying the same, tinted product as the seamless patch).

For those of us here who are rebuilding their '40 series trucks - Why is this concept not a more popular route ?

- Are we concerned about the potential formation of rust underneath ?
(what about those of us who powder coat things ?)

- Are we concerned about the longevity of such product and creating a headache to alter it ?

- About potential resale value ?

- Will the finish appear too much like plastic ?

- Will rubbing against a rock destroy too much of it ?

- Is it an ethical issue that is contra to the Classical '40 ?

I don't speak here of the traditional, thick bed liner products pasted on the outside of the vehicle (to merely toughen-up the vehicle). Instead, I speak of product currently referred to as bed liner but are seemingly little different than urethane paint (if applied in a smooth sort of way), and something like fine ceramic merely added within the mix (making it different than normal paint).

Like most of us here, I've seen soooo many BEAUTIFUL rigs with the traditional single stage paint, and with base coat/clear coat paint, etc. And of course glossy !! And I've seen a slew of really cool rattle-can jobs. Of course flat. But to use the rig to regularly drive upon service roads, etc, within forests & scrubland - why not smooth, tinted bed liner instead ?? ... to help make an attractive, but higher utility trail rig.

I appreciate your input & wisdom.

Thanks,
Marc
(Roswell, GA)

 

[davegonz]

You list some good reasons not to do it, but ultimately, it's your rig and you should do what you want with it. That being said, check out @warpdriv 's 40. He Monstalined the exterior and looks pretty cool.

Second 40

 

[Skydog]

You list some good reasons not to do it, but ultimately, it's your rig and you should do what you want with it. That being said, check out @warpdriv 's 40. He Monstalined the exterior and looks pretty cool.

Second 40

I too am aware of this picture, Dave, thanks for sharing it !! - He (@warpdriv) Monstalined this with the company's provided roller, creating a uniform texture throughout. And to me, this looks FANTASTIC in the company's color of yellow (Freedom Fried), resembling Toyota's Mustard Yellow. What I speak of is this same, exterior-applied concept, but merely to make the majority of the vehicle non-textured (Classical FJ40) with the same type product (a simple cosmetic thing). Thx, Marc

 

[thebigredrocker]

I've noticed newer play structures found at schools and municipal parks have a relatively low profile tinted "polyurea". It's fairly smooth in texture. Not sure what they are using, but it's similar to what you are describing.

 

[White Stripe]

40s are spot welded together. So using bedliner can cause moisture to get trapped in the spot welds and then work its way under the bed liner causing rust. I suppose you could bedline it top and botton and up in all the channels, but that would be tough to do.

 

[shawnfj40]

The only reason not to do it is, the resulting resale value crash and the complexity of touch ups.

 

[Splangy]

40s are spot welded together. So using bedliner can cause moisture to get trapped in the spot welds and then work its way under the bed liner causing rust. I suppose you could bedline it top and botton and up in all the channels, but that would be tough to do.

Nonsense. A polyurea isn't going to "trap" moisture any more than any other type of coating. Like all coatings, It all comes down to prep work.

That said, bedliners applied to the outer tub are great for trail rigs, but it's sacreligious to apply them to anything else!

 

[tls3601]

Trap in rust or pre rust, decreased resale.................

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

After the PO used bedliner on the inside of my tub, and the bottom of my tub, applied over a shoddy bondo job, and dealing with the rust explosion I found underneath the bedliner, I won't be going that route. Maybe if better prep work was done I wouldn't be in this situation, then again maybe I would.........

 

[73FJ40]

How does the Bedliner stand up to UV?

 

[White Stripe]

Nonsense. A polyurea isn't going to "trap" moisture any more than any other type of coating. Like all coatings, It all comes down to prep work.

That said, bedliners applied to the outer tub are great for trail rigs, but it's sacreligious to apply them to anything else!

My Dad had rhino liners apply their liner to the inside of the tub on his 40. After a few years that tub exploded with rust from the inside out.

 

[Skydog]

My Dad had rhino liners apply their liner to the inside of the tub on his 40. After a few years that tub exploded with rust from the inside out.

Hence, this is the type of wisdom myself, and no doubt others here, seek. And words of history like this, no matter how strong they are, are appreciated (and likely respected). Thanks for your words and stand !

Regarding spot welds & trapping moisture, I speak of / envision prep-work that would include a rust-free, factory steel tub & body parts to work from; and then the application of product along the lines of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, which is applicable not only over rusted metal, but scuffed clean metal as well. And in terms of "up in the channels," I speak of product along the lines of Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating, which is basically a rust reformer & rust encapsulator combined, applied via a 24-inch long tube pior to its ejected spray. I then speak of a 2K epoxy primer (required by Monstaliner, Raptor, etc), applied on top of the rust encapsulator (which the encapsulator product may or may not be even needed or necessary). A lot of prep work, no doubt - but that would seem to me to be the logical basis to such a modern-day polyuretha, bed line product. - - Regardless, if the above prep-products are applied properly via correct windows of time, would the trapping of moisture continue to be problematic ? (I completely get it if cracks or gaps in the coatings are eventually induced).

Once again, my attempt is to simply solicit input, such as that of yours, that I can learn what's wise from what's less than that. Thanks.

 

[Skydog]

How does the Bedliner stand up to UV?

Apparently, UV inhibitor bed liner products are now little or no different than traditional automotive paint - in terms of pigment fade.

 

[Skydog]

Trap in rust or pre rust, decreased resale.................

I get the concept of trap in rust or pre-rust, as any encapsulator product would logically do this. The envisioned scenario would be to apply true rust encapsulator product(s) underneath the bed liner product , which would theoretically further serve as an encapsulator. In terms of my own vehicle, I religiously seek to NEVER EVER sell it (have had it for multiple decades - but am aware that 's***' can happen to any of us in future life). But the frame of my question is for '40 series vehicles, in general, across the board. As @Splangy wrote above : "bedliners applied to the outer tub are great for trail rigs, but it's sacreligious to apply them to anything else!" ... Hence the possible increased value to one particular market, and the shot value to yet a different market.

 

[White Stripe]

Well if it's a trail vehicle, the other issue I see is if you come down on a tree or rock hard and crinkle or dent a quarter panel or something. It's going to be more difficult to straighten or weld in a patch panel.

 

[Coastline]

I have used this process as a primer coat prior to painting my Guasti Trailers for a textured finish. Out here in SoCal I see more and more off road vehicles , and a couple of mall crawlers, finished this way. As far as the the above comments regarding covering rust goes, prep the bare metal properly with an etching primer and then spray the bed liner over it according to the etching primer instructions. There is an "open time" that must be adhered to and the same goes for the bedliner if you would like to paint over the top of it to match color.

Body dents and repairs? You will still need hammers to fix the sheet metal and aggressive sanding to remove properly applied bed liner.

 

[tls3601]

I guess bottom line is what you are going to use the vehicle for and how important originality/retained value is..............

 

[Splangy]

I have used this process as a primer coat prior to painting my Guasti Trailers for a textured finish. Out here in SoCal I see more and more off road vehicles , and a couple of mall crawlers, finished this way. As far as the the above comments regarding covering rust goes, prep the bare metal properly with an etching primer and then spray the bed liner over it according to the etching primer instructions. There is an "open time" that must be adhered to and the same goes for the bedliner if you would like to paint over the top of it to match color.

Body dents and repairs? You will still need hammers to fix the sheet metal and aggressive sanding to remove properly applied bed liner.

I would follow the tech sheets that the bedliner comes with in regard to primers. Most top coats should not be applied directly over an etching primer.

 

[Splangy]

Hence, this is the type of wisdom myself, and no doubt others here, seek. And words of history like this, no matter how strong they are, are appreciated (and likely respected). Thanks for your words and stand !

Regarding spot welds & trapping moisture, I speak of / envision prep-work that would include a rust-free, factory steel tub & body parts to work from; and then the application of product along the lines of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator, which is applicable not only over rusted metal, but scuffed clean metal as well. And in terms of "up in the channels," I speak of product along the lines of Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating, which is basically a rust reformer & rust encapsulator combined, applied via a 24-inch long tube pior to its ejected spray. I then speak of a 2K epoxy primer (required by Monstaliner, Raptor, etc), applied on top of the rust encapsulator (which the encapsulator product may or may not be even needed or necessary). A lot of prep work, no doubt - but that would seem to me to be the logical basis to such a modern-day polyuretha, bed line product. - - Regardless, if the above prep-products are applied properly via correct windows of time, would the trapping of moisture continue to be problematic ? (I completely get it if cracks or gaps in the coatings are eventually induced).

Once again, my attempt is to simply solicit input, such as that of yours, that I can learn what's wise from what's less than that. Thanks.

I'm not sure where you got that information but it sure wasn't from any coatings specialist or from the tech sheets of any bedliner. Why would anybody apply rust encapsulator over a properly prepared bare metal surface? It doesn't make sense. The proper prep (with minor modifications depending on product) usually include the following steps:

Solvent wash
Sandblast
Primer (usually not an etching primer directly beneath a topcoat)
Topcoat (bedliner, paint, etc...)

The bedliners can also be applied over properly prepped clean painted surfaces (follow the tech sheets!). The existing paint would need to demonstrate proper adhesion and any rust would need to be eliminated. Anytime you have rust or adhesion issues, you will not achieve the intended performance of the coating, whether it's a bedliner or a paint.

To summarize, whenever somebody experiences poor performance from a good quality coating, it isn't because the coating failed, it's because the application failed. User error - plain and simple.

 

[70fj40]

Really the only reason not to use it is resale value. Most mud members are suspicious of any bed/under coatings because they may have been used to hide bad spots. You will limit your resale market with this method but if a future sale isn't a factor then make it the truck you want it to be.